Having read many threads on tuning, including the "sticky" ones, I was still not sure what a "custom tune" on a stock truck really meant. I had a good discussion with Bill at PHP and wanted to share what I found out:

1. Custom really means that the particular tune that the truck came with is used as a basis for the custom tune.

2. The "Hex" code isn't a code at all. It is a file name for the configuration file that came with the truck.

3. The position of the digits in the "hex code" are significant. Looking at my Hex code of "RXFM4R2," the first four characters "RXFM" simply mean that it is for a 2009 F150 4x4 and any other major configuration for my truck (such as transmission type). The next character "4" means that this is major version "4," which varies by region that the truck was sold (cold/hot climate, altitude taken into consideration). The last two characters "R2" is the minor version - this changes for ANY change to the program and is not necessarily sequential (sometimes numbers are skipped).

So, when you get a canned tune, you are getting one that does not consider the region where the truck was sold or any major differences between F150s. The tune is the same for 2x4, 4x4, max trailer tow, etc., while both the stock tune and a custom tune take these variables into consideration. That is why a custom tune can perform better.

Also, if you get pinging (stock or tuned), the computer backs the timing way back and doesn't forget this for a long time. It can be reset by removing the battery cable for a little while.

I hope this is helpful.

 

 

Goof Info. Thanks for posting.

 

Goof info indeed!

 

"Goof" info??? I hope it is correct! The only thing I was a little fuzzy on is whether the major version number or first four characters change for the region-specific settings.

While I am at it, another thing that Bill said is that the shift firmness on the '09 - '10 is primarily controlled by the ECM. The TCM allows the shift points to be moved.

 

Good info:

One very important consideration when buying a performance product and comparing horsepower numbers is altitude.

What altitude is the test dyno?

What altitude is the consumers vehicle?

I found this out years ago when EDGE first came out with the tuner for the 04 Ford F150. While I liked the increase in performance, and the better shift commands, it really did not impress me at first. Then I happened to take a trip to an area over 4000 feet. It was like I had a different truck. My wife even said the truck sounds different. Wasn't sure what the difference was at first. Even had "sea level" fuel in it at the time. I was able to duplicate this several times before I sold the truck.

The only explanation I could come up with was that EDGE products is based out of Ogden Utah and is over 4000 feet. So the tuner is tested at that altitude.

So I will not buy a canned tune next time. It will be one that I can data log and get the best tune for sea level running in the hottest time of the year.

For those of us old enough to remember, "tuning" meant changing jets for the carb, adjusting the timing, and maybe putting in a set of colder plugs. Now we expect the computer to do it for us. I used to double stack 14 inch air cleaners on my Bronco. If it pinged, I put a bigger jet in the holley, or backed off the timing.

So when you are looking for aftermarket performance, you must consider everything before you buy. When I look at a dyno sheet and see that I can only expect a horsepower gain at 4200 rpm, move along. Would be a waste of money for me. If it shows an increase in torque at 1500 rpm, I would jump on that.

The guy that goes WOT from red light to red light may appreciate a performance mod much more so than the guy that drives with the egg on the throttle trying to save fuel.

That's why I sometimes put in a higher octane fuel when I am towing in the hottest time of year, or going up a pretty steep grade. It keeps the computer from backing off the timing, thus reducing power. It's also why I think some guys will rave about how well an intake or exhaust works, where as another says it did not help at all. It all has to do with altitude, humidity, and driving style.

The bottom line is that the consumer must do homework and pay attention to detail. Consider your driving style and needs vs what you read on these websites.

 

Thanks, 2009KR and expy03 - I liked your posts so much I copied them to the "Questions About Tunes" thread.

I appreciate your efforts to make the information about tunes more understandable and complete.

- Jack

 

With this tidbit of information, can a dealer do a flash to change a vehicle from a high altitude vehicle to a sea level, or somewhere in between?

 

Yes......and........along with that you may also get an updated one that'll correct problems others in the series were having.......

 

I'm not disagreeing with you on the altitude point......
But
Why does edge incorporate beta testers into the mix?

Yes the origination of the canned tune was on the dyno but was revised through many inputs of the beta testers and continued reviews of the engineers.

There are other factors that contributed to your trucks behavior when it was driven at a higher altitude.

 

As a counterpoint, I'd like to add this description of why it's not really of any benefit to add higher octane when running a specific octane tune ( doesn't matter if it's the stock, canned or custom tune), and in fact can be detrimental overall in terms of performance.

At a specific octane for which yer engine is tuned - adding octane to alleviate - or 'prevent' the possibility of - detonation or pinging, is a bandaid - and it's really just masking an underlying issue. Bottom line - if it's tuned correctly, for that octane in question - you should not be pinging. The vehicle's closed & open loop control coupled with all accurately reporting sensor inputs, are fully capable of doing this, without adding any octane 'padding', regardless of environmental conditions.

Underlying issues usually connotes a vehicle maintenace issue - or a component degradation/failure, if it's not poor quality gas, or issues within the aftermarket calibration itself.

(BTW - the concept of - and obvious benefits derived from - full 7-digit strategy-matched custom tuning have been discussed here for almost 10 years, even before the advent of handheld flash devices (chips inserted into J3 ports) ... just fyi)

Q = Running higher octane on a lower octane tune.

A = MGD

 

The problem with being a beta tester is that if you don't know how the vehicle is "supposed" to perform, you assume what you have is ok. If it runs better than stock, most are happy with the results. And I agree, other factors come into play in regards to the vehicles performance at higher altitude.

A few questions:

If the knock sensor detects pinging what does the ecm do?

What are some causes of pinging or "detonation"?

Are all tanks of fuel the exact octane?

If a vehicle is tuned for an altitude of 5000 feet, and is driven in the hot dessert in the heat of the summer with temps over 115 degrees, can the ecm adjust the timing and fuel management enough to maintain the same horsepower under those conditions?

I also understand that under ideal conditions that is it a waste of money to add a higher octane. But my objective is to not lose power under extreme conditions. By adding a higher octane, my hope is to prevent the ecm from retarding the timing and cutting power. If you have never driven at temps of of over 110 degrees and felt the lack of power I understand it's hard to imagine how much of a power lose is felt.

I like the way he worded this.

Agree with you 100%. My next tune will be a custom tune. For my application, a canned tune will not be beneficial. Just have to get a few more miles on my truck and decide who to work the magic for me.

 

Understood, sir.

I hear what you are saying; I'm only here to discuss and perhaps offer some meager alternative perspective, not argue

MGD