My screen on my gryphon is normal on most screens but black as night on others, does this mean that it is going bad?

 

Does the black screen happen after the truck is parked outside in the sun and the ambient temperature is considered hot?

 

It happens at all tempratures, after long use, after no use, I can't find a condition that's the cause.

 

First thought that comes to mind is get your battery checked, get it load tested.
The Gryphon starts doing weird things if its a battery problem.

If that's not the case then call PHP for assistance, there could be some other underlying issue with the programmer itself.

 

Is there a way to test the battery with a standard multimeter? I own one but am only familiar with the basic uses.

 

Ensure there is a load on it ...

MGD

 

Autozone load tests batteries in the vehicle free.

 

Yep. With a wrench across the teminals. If it melts, draws a 1-foot arc, or creates a fireball, it's good to go - just like Jbrew

Never load-test a battery at a place that also sells new ones

I've never been in an Autozone yet that didn't have more tools standing behind the counter than they had in stock in the aisles.



MGD

 

The amount of current a simple 12V battery can produce is really scary. (And I know we're off the subject here, but it's worth talking about.)

If conditions are right, a vehicle battery can kill. It needs to be treated with great respect.

Jbrew was even doing things right - tightening up the negative post last. He just had the bad luck of letting the wrench bridge the gap between it and a dead short to the positive post while doing so. (I'm really surprised the wrench didn't just weld at the two ends, which could have exploded the battery in his face.)

To get slightly back on subject - I'm not really a big fan of load tests, even though I've recommended them. I much prefer the "resting battery" voltage test, coupled with an inspection of the battery - Is it gassing? Is the electrolyte in any cell low? What's the specific gravity in each cell? To me, this tells me all I need to know. But, I'm never sure everyone really knows how to interpret these observations.

And to the OP, your battery may well be at fault here.

- Jack

 

Good points, Jack, and so very true.

Perhaps I should clarify: my idea of a "load" in this instance was something on the order of turning on the parking lights, not emulating the draw of the starter motor.

This is due to the high-impedance of a digital DVM causing a false reading across a battery that is also possibly internally afflicted with a high resistance fault. With little/no draw, it's possible to read an 'acceptable' voltage - under even a reasonably small load, the terminal voltage will drop in such a case.

MGD

 

I was not referring to your "load" reference. I was talking about the "load test" devices employed by the people who also conveniently sell batteries. Yes, I know it is quite possible for a battery to look and act fine when tested by a voltmeter. I had one once - a 9 Volt battery that was brand new that I put into some device and it did not work. Yet, when tested on my multimeter, it read a solid 9.5+ Volts. I tried to get it to work over and over, with the same test results. But as you correctly point out, once it had to actually supply a bit of current - it failed.

Of course a vehicle battery can do the same. And, the parking light test or even opening the truck door so that internal lights and some other systems are activated will certainly reveal this. Thanks for clarifying your point here for everyone - you are absolutely correct.

I have to digress here - When I was still in the Air Force and stationed in Pennsylvania, we had to have semi-annual "mechanical condition" tests. These were conveniently done only at automotive repair shops. Each and every six months, my headlights would be out of alignment and would need to be "adjusted" (at my cost). I guess I was lucky - They could have decided my frame had a speck of rust on it (which was an automatic "fail").

- Jack

 

Actually my gryphon did this whille I was on the phone with Bill, working on another problem. At that time it was linked to my computer so I dont believe this is a battery issue.

 

Repeating what was posted in my other post.

Then its time to call PHP.

 

Please don't insult my intelligence, sir.

Their load tester is very easy to use and interpret. Last fall, I noticed my truck (with original battery from 2003) was starting to crank just a bit slower than usual. I took it over to Autozone. The guy came out with the meter, asked what the rated CCA was on the battery (found it on the top - 650). He entered this into the device and applied the load. The meter said that it was at 79% capacity. He did NOT try to sell me a battery - he just said that it was starting to show its age. I fully agreed. However, I did buy a new battery with winter coming up.

 

That was not my intent, and I suspect you know it.

I've stated on here several times how much I respect you, sir. While you, on the other hand, just tell me repeatedy to 'get on the short bus'.

I was merely relating MY personal experiences at this establishment - if yer AZ is competent, that's great. I, alas, have not found one yet - and I been lookin' I have had better luck at Pep Boys...

Another clue - that pix should set the context - I was trying to be funny. Failed miseably again, I see

MGD