Superchips 1714 Shift Points
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Superchips 1714 Shift Points
I got my hands on a used Superchips 1714 for cheap. I needed to correct my speedometer and paying $50 for a used one seemed safer than $300+ for a new tuner having never done this before. The tune went well , I fixed my speedo issue and used the performance 91. For the shift points used Superchips default for all. During the normal driving the truck shifts fine and drives well. However if I stomp on the gas there is brief slip and a squeal before it jerks into a higher gear. It does this for each shift not just one in particular.
What should I do? With daily driving I don’t have the problem, but I want to know that I’m not damaging my transmission during “rapid acceleration”.
What should I do? With daily driving I don’t have the problem, but I want to know that I’m not damaging my transmission during “rapid acceleration”.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
From: Memphis
I am very familiar with the 1714, as that's what I used for months till I got talked into going cutom tuned. Yes, there's you can tell a difference in Custom, of the 91+ on the 1714. I was amazed with the amount of power I could feel form the 91, then equally impressed when I went Custom!
As for the shift point's, get RID of the Superchips Default, they are a bit harsh. I usually kept mine around 12-14psi LinePressure. The squeal you are hearing is just the drive belt on the motor, you can fix this by either dropping your line pressure down to 6-8, or you can spring for the GatorBack Belt from GoodYear, it's a little more pricey than the other's, but doesnt make a sound during the shifts once installed. I think I got mine for about $45.00.
On you 1-2 shift point's I reccomend no going anymore the +02mph. Cant remember why, but I remember reading a post back in the day, about that.
Enjoy!
Tom
As for the shift point's, get RID of the Superchips Default, they are a bit harsh. I usually kept mine around 12-14psi LinePressure. The squeal you are hearing is just the drive belt on the motor, you can fix this by either dropping your line pressure down to 6-8, or you can spring for the GatorBack Belt from GoodYear, it's a little more pricey than the other's, but doesnt make a sound during the shifts once installed. I think I got mine for about $45.00.
On you 1-2 shift point's I reccomend no going anymore the +02mph. Cant remember why, but I remember reading a post back in the day, about that.
Enjoy!
Tom
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,409
Likes: 1
From: Sunny FL
I found this post that might help ya out Jester
Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
(Snip
the only change we advise everyone to make automatically when towing heavy loads (or even just driving in general) is the 2-3 upshift being bumped up exactly 2 notches above the centerline (ST).
The default upload from the Micro Tuner, depending on it's internal firmware revision, will be called "Superchips," or "ST," etc. That is the center point of those screens with the lines on them (like the screen you see for manually adjusting shift points). That generally works very well, and we do not advise making any changes from that other than bumping up the 2-3 by exactly 2 notches.
Now for quickest acceleration at WOT (wide-open throttle) with the stock 12" torque converter and say, an intake kit and a good cat-back exhaust so the motor can breathe a bit better, you want an upshift point of 5400 rpm on the 1-2. (Well, actually the best acceleration would be had with a 5600 rpm 1-2 with the gear ratio spread of these transmissions, but the stock 12" non-Lightning F-150 torque converter can sometimes "balloon" after 5400 rpm.) Then for the WOT 2-3 you also want 5400 rpm, and then to protect the transmission, not more than 4700 rpm on the WOT 3-4 (at which point you'd be *flying* anyway, well over 100 mph).
Some trucks, usually the heavier 4WD configurations, have lower WOT upshift points stock, and so they won't be as high as 5400 rpm with the default upload from the 1715 Micro Tuner in *some* cases. So there are a few that will need to have the shift points bumped up a bit manually to achieve a 5400 rpm 1-2 upshift point. HOWEVER - what we advise doing even on those trucks, is to get the 1-2 at about 5400 rpm, but on the 2-3, just bump it up exactly 2 notches above the center line to get the benefit of it getting back up into Overdrive (4th gear) quicker after a load event causing a 4-3 downshift (a hill, mountain, grade, etc.). That slight adjustment to the 2-3 shift point gives a very nice benefit to the **3-4 upshift** after a "load event" that caused a downshift out of Overdrive (especially when towing!). In other words, it's a neat little trick to get the tranny back up into Overdrive much quicker after going up a hill, for example. The longer the grade, the longer it takes after cresting that grade for the tranny to get back up into Overdrive - in some cases 15-20 seconds or even a bit more! That 2-3 adjustment of bumping it up 2 notches will dramatically reduce that amount of time, allowing the tranny to get back up into 4th gear (Overdrive) much quicker after a 4-3 downshift.
Now for towing a heavy load like that, what I would do is *only* adjust the 2-3 like I mentioned - unless the WOT upshifts are happening abnormally low (like only 4700 rpm, for example - for towing, I like to see at least 5000 rpm WOT 1-2's), I'd leave the 1-2 and the 3-4 alone, and just bump up that 2-3 by 2 notches.
the only change we advise everyone to make automatically when towing heavy loads (or even just driving in general) is the 2-3 upshift being bumped up exactly 2 notches above the centerline (ST).
The default upload from the Micro Tuner, depending on it's internal firmware revision, will be called "Superchips," or "ST," etc. That is the center point of those screens with the lines on them (like the screen you see for manually adjusting shift points). That generally works very well, and we do not advise making any changes from that other than bumping up the 2-3 by exactly 2 notches.
Now for quickest acceleration at WOT (wide-open throttle) with the stock 12" torque converter and say, an intake kit and a good cat-back exhaust so the motor can breathe a bit better, you want an upshift point of 5400 rpm on the 1-2. (Well, actually the best acceleration would be had with a 5600 rpm 1-2 with the gear ratio spread of these transmissions, but the stock 12" non-Lightning F-150 torque converter can sometimes "balloon" after 5400 rpm.) Then for the WOT 2-3 you also want 5400 rpm, and then to protect the transmission, not more than 4700 rpm on the WOT 3-4 (at which point you'd be *flying* anyway, well over 100 mph).
Some trucks, usually the heavier 4WD configurations, have lower WOT upshift points stock, and so they won't be as high as 5400 rpm with the default upload from the 1715 Micro Tuner in *some* cases. So there are a few that will need to have the shift points bumped up a bit manually to achieve a 5400 rpm 1-2 upshift point. HOWEVER - what we advise doing even on those trucks, is to get the 1-2 at about 5400 rpm, but on the 2-3, just bump it up exactly 2 notches above the center line to get the benefit of it getting back up into Overdrive (4th gear) quicker after a load event causing a 4-3 downshift (a hill, mountain, grade, etc.). That slight adjustment to the 2-3 shift point gives a very nice benefit to the **3-4 upshift** after a "load event" that caused a downshift out of Overdrive (especially when towing!). In other words, it's a neat little trick to get the tranny back up into Overdrive much quicker after going up a hill, for example. The longer the grade, the longer it takes after cresting that grade for the tranny to get back up into Overdrive - in some cases 15-20 seconds or even a bit more! That 2-3 adjustment of bumping it up 2 notches will dramatically reduce that amount of time, allowing the tranny to get back up into 4th gear (Overdrive) much quicker after a 4-3 downshift.
Now for towing a heavy load like that, what I would do is *only* adjust the 2-3 like I mentioned - unless the WOT upshifts are happening abnormally low (like only 4700 rpm, for example - for towing, I like to see at least 5000 rpm WOT 1-2's), I'd leave the 1-2 and the 3-4 alone, and just bump up that 2-3 by 2 notches.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Thanks a new belt and less pressure worked!
I backed off the shift points and put on new Gaterback belt. I never realized how squeaky the old OEM belt was! Much happier now, thanks for the advice!