Ordered the 3.25 AF1 and XCal2 Today!
Originally Posted by xopis
Duke
Originally Posted by F150 Duke
For some stupid reason the client that I'm at has a proxy server which is blocking that link. Heaven forbid I read about a spark plug....well I'll have to call TP about this.
Duke
Duke
Originally Posted by BumperB
I talked to Crystal at TP about pulling the sparkplugs. She told me to write "Did not pull" on my worksheet. My truck only had 3K miles on it at the time so I don't know if that had anything to do with it or not.
Duke
Hi Duke,
Don't worry about pulling the plugs - that is really a left-over from days gone by, and these days really applies mostly to guys running nitrous, not to these late model lightly modified vehicles.
By the way, there are a couple of new tools now for the 3-valve engines that will help make plug removal a lot easier - most Ford dealerships have them by now, and they can also be purchased. This is just FYI for the 3-valve guys, as we do recommend that 3-valve engines have their spark plugs changed at 30K mile intervals due to the carbon buildup that causes problems when removing them.
Now as far as them breaking off during removal, that is prevented by the Ford TSB that we talked about a good while back here - use the SEARCH feature to retrieve that info, but basically, it says to do that on a warm (not hot or cold) engine, and use Aerokroil lubricant on each spark plug, shooting a shot down the spark plug hole about 10-20 minutes before removing the plug - then remove each plug by loosening it a half turn, then re-tighten 1/4 turn, and repeat that process until the plug finally comes all the way out - you will sometimes hear some squeaking & creaking as you turn it, but that is normal. Now if the bottom part of the plug becomes separated, then you use that new special tool to remove the bottom of the plug without having to pull the cylinder head - we've had to do this a few times.
This is all just general FYI for the 3-valve engine owners who want to change their plugs. But there is no need to remove your spark plugs just to fill out our CPW's, so don't worry about that - it's really a carry-over from older vehicles and those running nitrous oxide.
Don't worry about pulling the plugs - that is really a left-over from days gone by, and these days really applies mostly to guys running nitrous, not to these late model lightly modified vehicles.
By the way, there are a couple of new tools now for the 3-valve engines that will help make plug removal a lot easier - most Ford dealerships have them by now, and they can also be purchased. This is just FYI for the 3-valve guys, as we do recommend that 3-valve engines have their spark plugs changed at 30K mile intervals due to the carbon buildup that causes problems when removing them.
Now as far as them breaking off during removal, that is prevented by the Ford TSB that we talked about a good while back here - use the SEARCH feature to retrieve that info, but basically, it says to do that on a warm (not hot or cold) engine, and use Aerokroil lubricant on each spark plug, shooting a shot down the spark plug hole about 10-20 minutes before removing the plug - then remove each plug by loosening it a half turn, then re-tighten 1/4 turn, and repeat that process until the plug finally comes all the way out - you will sometimes hear some squeaking & creaking as you turn it, but that is normal. Now if the bottom part of the plug becomes separated, then you use that new special tool to remove the bottom of the plug without having to pull the cylinder head - we've had to do this a few times.
This is all just general FYI for the 3-valve engine owners who want to change their plugs. But there is no need to remove your spark plugs just to fill out our CPW's, so don't worry about that - it's really a carry-over from older vehicles and those running nitrous oxide.
Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
Hi Duke,
Don't worry about pulling the plugs - that is really a left-over from days gone by, and these days really applies mostly to guys running nitrous, not to these late model lightly modified vehicles.
By the way, there are a couple of new tools now for the 3-valve engines that will help make plug removal a lot easier - most Ford dealerships have them by now, and they can also be purchased. This is just FYI for the 3-valve guys, as we do recommend that 3-valve engines have their spark plugs changed at 30K mile intervals due to the carbon buildup that causes problems when removing them.
Now as far as them breaking off during removal, that is prevented by the Ford TSB that we talked about a good while back here - use the SEARCH feature to retrieve that info, but basically, it says to do that on a warm (not hot or cold) engine, and use Aerokroil lubricant on each spark plug, shooting a shot down the spark plug hole about 10-20 minutes before removing the plug - then remove each plug by loosening it a half turn, then re-tighten 1/4 turn, and repeat that process until the plug finally comes all the way out - you will sometimes hear some squeaking & creaking as you turn it, but that is normal. Now if the bottom part of the plug becomes separated, then you use that new special tool to remove the bottom of the plug without having to pull the cylinder head - we've had to do this a few times.
This is all just general FYI for the 3-valve engine owners who want to change their plugs. But there is no need to remove your spark plugs just to fill out our CPW's, so don't worry about that - it's really a carry-over from older vehicles and those running nitrous oxide.
Don't worry about pulling the plugs - that is really a left-over from days gone by, and these days really applies mostly to guys running nitrous, not to these late model lightly modified vehicles.
By the way, there are a couple of new tools now for the 3-valve engines that will help make plug removal a lot easier - most Ford dealerships have them by now, and they can also be purchased. This is just FYI for the 3-valve guys, as we do recommend that 3-valve engines have their spark plugs changed at 30K mile intervals due to the carbon buildup that causes problems when removing them.
Now as far as them breaking off during removal, that is prevented by the Ford TSB that we talked about a good while back here - use the SEARCH feature to retrieve that info, but basically, it says to do that on a warm (not hot or cold) engine, and use Aerokroil lubricant on each spark plug, shooting a shot down the spark plug hole about 10-20 minutes before removing the plug - then remove each plug by loosening it a half turn, then re-tighten 1/4 turn, and repeat that process until the plug finally comes all the way out - you will sometimes hear some squeaking & creaking as you turn it, but that is normal. Now if the bottom part of the plug becomes separated, then you use that new special tool to remove the bottom of the plug without having to pull the cylinder head - we've had to do this a few times.
This is all just general FYI for the 3-valve engine owners who want to change their plugs. But there is no need to remove your spark plugs just to fill out our CPW's, so don't worry about that - it's really a carry-over from older vehicles and those running nitrous oxide.
I faxed the work sheets to you yesterday and will call with the computer code when the Xcal2 arrives tomorrow. I also heard back from Anita (via email) regarding the exhaust rust and will continue to work with her regarding that matter.
Thanks again for all your help and great customer service!
Duke
Hey Guys,
Got the Xcal2 and AF1 today. The poor box looks like it was kicked here by the shippers from TP. At least everything was in good shape though. I can't install the 3.25 AF1 till I recieve the custom tunes from Troyer via email. The wait will definitely be rough, but I'm hoping it isn't very long.
Here is the very odd thing. I recieved a strategy code I've never read about before on here or heard someone mention.
RXCM5E4
Could I be the first with this code?
Duke
Got the Xcal2 and AF1 today. The poor box looks like it was kicked here by the shippers from TP. At least everything was in good shape though. I can't install the 3.25 AF1 till I recieve the custom tunes from Troyer via email. The wait will definitely be rough, but I'm hoping it isn't very long.
Here is the very odd thing. I recieved a strategy code I've never read about before on here or heard someone mention.
RXCM5E4
Could I be the first with this code?
Duke
Originally Posted by F150 Duke
Hey Guys,
Got the Xcal2 and AF1 today. The poor box looks like it was kicked here by the shippers from TP. At least everything was in good shape though. I can't install the 3.25 AF1 till I recieve the custom tunes from Troyer via email. The wait will definitely be rough, but I'm hoping it isn't very long.
Here is the very odd thing. I recieved a strategy code I've never read about before on here or heard someone mention.
RXCM5E4
Could I be the first with this code?
Duke
Got the Xcal2 and AF1 today. The poor box looks like it was kicked here by the shippers from TP. At least everything was in good shape though. I can't install the 3.25 AF1 till I recieve the custom tunes from Troyer via email. The wait will definitely be rough, but I'm hoping it isn't very long.
Here is the very odd thing. I recieved a strategy code I've never read about before on here or heard someone mention.
RXCM5E4
Could I be the first with this code?
Duke
Originally Posted by F150Truck'in
strategy code has been covered, sometime called HEX Code and its what you need to give Troyer.... 
Duke
Originally Posted by F150 Duke
Yeah I know that, I just haven't ever heard of that code before.
Duke
Duke
It's one of several strategy "families" for an '05.
Have a look here: https://local.edgeproducts.com/edge/...nformation.pdf
I know it's an Edge site, but the info is still valid.
The important thing is you got all seven digits...
Hope this helps - no worries... Mike's got it covered
Cheers
Bubba
Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hi Duke;
It's one of several strategy "families" for an '05.
Have a look here: https://local.edgeproducts.com/edge/...nformation.pdf
I know it's an Edge site, but the info is still valid.
The important thing is you got all seven digits...
Hope this helps - no worries... Mike's got it covered
Cheers
Bubba
It's one of several strategy "families" for an '05.
Have a look here: https://local.edgeproducts.com/edge/...nformation.pdf
I know it's an Edge site, but the info is still valid.
The important thing is you got all seven digits...
Hope this helps - no worries... Mike's got it covered
Cheers
Bubba
Duke
So I have a small credit towards a purchase at TP. I was thinking about ordering a 4th tune for my Xcal2.
I've already ordered:
91 perf
87 perf
87 tow
What do you guys think I should order for a fourth tune? Or should I just order a gatorback belt?
91 tow?
Duke
I've already ordered:
91 perf
87 perf
87 tow
What do you guys think I should order for a fourth tune? Or should I just order a gatorback belt?
91 tow?
Duke


