Mike Troyer and Comp Cams, question for the king.

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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:21 PM
  #31  
Virilha's Avatar
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From: newark,nj
Originally Posted by LightningTuner
Since you asked for my opinion, I would go with the 150s on the cam selection. I would also suggest NOT using a Monster Box or Total Domination converter.
Sal, i really would like to use a BTS transmission but they build only 4r100W transmissions. I don't see any other good option for mine, 4R75W.
At the same time i think that if Factory Tech (MosterBox buider) offers a 2 years warranty "INCLUDING LABOR" they must be doing a better transmission now.
Thanks a lot for the post about the cams Sal.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:36 PM
  #32  
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From: Wylie Texas
Sal and I both agree the 150's are the best. The 300's will kill you and you will not like them. With the converter and gears, you will not be able to drive on the street, unless your gas budget is unlimited
 
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #33  
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From: newark,nj
Originally Posted by skidmarkracing
Sal and I both agree the 150's are the best. The 300's will kill you and you will not like them. With the converter and gears, you will not be able to drive on the street, unless your gas budget is unlimited
There is still a last option of asking CompCams to do a custom grind. Do you recommend that or that can become a big headache ?
Thanks Mark.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 09:51 PM
  #34  
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From: Friendswood Texas
so Sal and Mark both think you need cams and to stay away from the monster box.....smart people.

just to avoid confusion, what have you purchased and who is doing the assembley and installation? Sounds like you have a big budget, throw all mods out and some of the guys that have been there, done that, can save you from making some costly mistakes.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 10:37 PM
  #35  
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From: newark,nj
Originally Posted by BROTHERDAVE
so Sal and Mark both think you need cams and to stay away from the monster box.....smart people.

just to avoid confusion, what have you purchased and who is doing the assembley and installation? Sounds like you have a big budget, throw all mods out and some of the guys that have been there, done that, can save you from making some costly mistakes.
VT engines is doing the assembly and BTW, they don't make mistakes.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 01:00 PM
  #36  
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From: Virginia
Hi V,

You will need to call me for advice on this, I don't do that on the boards, as I feel far more info is needed to be known about this engine, cylinder head work, vehicle config, gearing, tire height, uses, etc., etc. I just do not see anyone as being qualified to just blindly give advice on those off-the-shelf cams for this type of application - far more needs to be known about this application, IMHO, before deciding on a cam profile.

Sure - given those limited choices, it's easy to say go with the 150's - and if I HAD to give just one opinion without knowing anything else, I;d probably say the same - but this really cruise for a more custom cam profile, IMHO.

Additionally, I will pass on providing cams for an engine we have not provided even the cylinder heads for - I think that is a very bad idea. See, I feel the engine, cylinder heads, cams, springs, and everything else having to do with that engine should all come from the same supplier, meaning the engine builder, based on *their* feelings. Otherwise you end up with various people pointing their fingers at each other when things go wrong - as they so typically do when mixing & matching vendors & parts - so I simply do not like to do that. I would rather pass on a sale before getting involved into that kind of scenario.

The engine builder and the cylinder head porter need to be the same person IMHO, and that same person needs to recommend the camshaft selection as well - anyone willing to give advice without knowing a lot more than is seen here would not make me very comfortable - and I mean no offense to anyone when i say that. Sorry, that's just how I feel.

BTW - as I'm sure you already realize, I doubt you will be running 23 PSI of boost on pump fuel - that is most likely going to take a good 100 octane fuel and sharp tuning, which can vary depending on just how much the quench area & characteristics of the combustion chambers have been changed with the port job, if any - quench has a huge effect on how much spark a motor will tolerate as well as what is required to make power. I hope you plan on running this thing in and tuning it using a pyrometer as well as A/F's. See, you really won't know what kind of boost that blower will build in that config until the engine is together, broken in properly so you can lay into it, and then tested & really tuned - *then* you'll really know what that configuration yields in terms of boost for a given pulley size. Remember, boost is really nothing more than a purely relative number that is simply a measurement of *resistance to flow* - which is affected by manifolding, cylinder heads, cams, exhaust configuration, etc.

Please don't misunderstand, I appreciate your confidence in us and trying to do business with us on the cams - but this is one instance in which my advice is to stick with ONE vendor, the engine builder, on this application. That way you have ONE person to talk to about this, and by far the most important person - the engine builder.

I wish you well,
 

Last edited by Superchips_Distributor; Sep 18, 2006 at 01:46 PM.
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