Just wondering if anyone has used this on an 04+ F150 yet. I would like to get an idea of how you hooked everything up. Specifically the RPM converter.

 

I have the LM-1 and XD-1 too, but I have not connected the rpm converter yet.
Regardless of year you need to find a tach signal, and plug the converter into the LM-1. Rpm coversion, by # of cylinders, is done with the software.

I didn't have any luck finding a "white wire with a pink stripe", or " a white wire with pink paralellograms" for a tach signal from the PCM as my search results yielded.

A source for tach signal could be a wire on either side of the PCM, or at the dash instrument wiring, or one of the cam sensor's wires.

I think the inductive acessory they sell is not that great, though posts say that it works well, for a permanent installation ....I don't like it.

I need to devote some time to it ... too busy with other projects.

Hope this helps.

 

You don't need the tach signal other than to datt-log. and if you have the XCal 2 you can send the air/fuels from the lm1 to the XCal 2 so again you don't need thae tach signal. I ahve one on my 2001 4.6 and I use the tach adapter with either the pick up or a wire rapped around a coil pack wire. On my truck the second coil back on the passenger side has the coil wires split and the one wire has a little tag that says test point and the signal works well there, except the idle will be a little erratic, but you realy don't need any info at idle.

 

OK. My setup came with the RPM converter and a cable with an audio plug on one end and 3 wire (red, white, and bare) on the other. Is this the cable you used?

Also, where did you have the bung welded in for the O2 sensor? IT says to have it installed upstream from the cats, but since I have a cat on each bank wouldn't that only give the A/F on one bank of cylinders?

 

Hey chucks bp-
That is what I thought too, but Mike told me that the rpm converter needs to be be used.
I admit to not knowing a lot about it , but I think a cable has to be fabbed with a DIN 9 ? plug so that datalogging and f/a will match at rpm.
I saw more info on the Innovate site, but that was a while back, and I have not had a chance to get into it yet.

 

Alright. I talked to Innovate and they said to attach a wire between the tach signal wire at the ECU and the RPM converter. Does anyone know how to locate the tach signal wire?

 

That minature audio plug is used to connect the output of the LM1 to a second device like a guage or the Xcal2. The female plug on the Rpm adapter is used to plug a rpm inductive clamp into. But you usualy can pick up rpms with a piece of wire wrapped around the coil lead several times and then bare the other end and connect it to the screw that says RPM on the adapter, then do the rpm cofiguration using the engine and it should work, or buy the tach inductive pickup it is like $21

As far as needing the rpm with the Xcal2 Mike would know better than I. I am going buy what I have read on the innovate and SCT forum. I use Auto Tap so I have to use both pieces and then compare datta using RPM, or mass air voltage. I made a wiring harness to capture RPM Mass air voltage, boost and throttle position voltage. I can graph that stuff on LOg works and then compare or add the datta to a spreadsheet with datta from auto tap, and then Mike does his thing with the info. I also use Gtech at the same time to get comparason hp and 1/4 mile numbers. This is how I tracked my mods from stock to now. I do all my comparasons on the same stretch of road the only variable that I can't control is weather and that I also document.

 

Chucks bp, what size wire did you use to wrap around the coil lead? Gonna try that tomorrow and if it doesn't work I'll just get the inductive clamp.

 

Any thin wire is fine, 18 to 20 guage you want a single strand wire to stay formed around the coil wire. If you don't have one wire that is seperated to the coils you will have to unwrap one of the coil lead and seperate this is necessary even with the inductive pickup. What I am trying to say is each coil has two wires to it although they are taped together, my truck's harness had one seperated for a test point probly for the same tach output for emmision test. This one was the second or third cylender back on the passenger side. You wrap that wire five or six or more revolutions around one wire if one doesn't work try the other, doesn't matter which I use on my application. This picks up the pulses and acts like a transformer. There are a lot of questions about this on the Innovate forums, if memory serves me I thin this was a sugestion from Mike Troyer who posted there at that time.
As far as the oxygen sensor I had my truck to the dyno and the operator installed a bung on the drivers side pipe above the converter toward the transmission side of the exaust where there was a lot of room to work. it only takes a minute to install now and i just run the wire through the door in the front corner and under the mat for a temoorary install. If you are going with apermanant install you could go up through with the transmission shift cable I would think.

 

What you need to do is to contact the manufacturer directly - for getting proper Tech Support from the manufacturer of any part, remember that always going directly to the manufacturer generally gets you the best & proper Tech Support - it's far faster & mush more accurate 99% of the time, and they have their own boards for this, as well as a well-staffed telephone Tech Support staff.

How you get your RPM signal from any COP ignition FoMoCo vehicle, as we informed Innovative Motorsports several years ago before they were really familiar with Ford's COP setup specifically, is actually very simple - you simply get it from the smallest of the 2 wires from any of the coil packs, and then the other end of that wire had only ONE place that it can be plugged into the "RPM converter."

Now keep in mind that doing it the way you would for a single vehicle permanent installation we don't usually do, the way we use the LM-1 is as a tuner would use it - set up with our "tuner" version as you can see o our web site at www.TroyerPerformance.com in the Accessories section, where we use the rpm inductive clamp which takes all of 3 seconds to connect for an RPM signal (and as another poster pointed out, the *only* time you need an RPM signal is to datalog) and plug the other end of it into the only port on the RPM Extender into which it will fit.

Now it is also true that they have made some recent changes in the configuration of some of their hardware, and we are used to using it strictly as a tuner would - not in a "permanent" installation on a single vehicle, so this is another reason why you want to get your proper info straight from the horse's mouth, so to speak, to make sure you get correct info on whichever version of their hardware you may have, OK? How we use it may differ slightly from exactly what you need to do in a single vehicle permanent install, depending on what generation of their hardware yo have, and all we carry in stock is their latest, but what we actually USE i our mobile tuning is the very first iteration, which works wonderfully for us, but may be slightly different form what you have, I guess is the point I'm really trying to make.

I know it can be frustrating sometimes, but simply going to the manufacturer's web site is the hot tip, always - or calling them directly, either way will get yo the info you need far quicker.

For example, the way we use it as tuners is we use the inductive rpm pickup, which takes all of 3 seconds to clamp around the smallest diameter (ground) of any coil pack, and then plug the other end into the one jack on the RPM converter that it will fit into - voilą, we have an rpm signal! Then we plug in the O2 sensor into the exhaust bung or Innovative's excellent tailpipe clamp (since we tend to A/F numerous vehicles in a short period of time, thus we are installing & removing these units in like 5 minutes total), and then simply connect that to the LM-1, and you're ready to rock.

Any time you have a question on how the LM-1 works, your best bet is to call the manufacturer directly - or you can always simply go right to their web site instead of posting here, as at Innovative Motorsports web site they tell you their documentation, and posts on THEIR boards are normally made by one of the higher-ups with the company who will provide a very quick and accurate response to your questions, within a day or less - there is also a very thorough message/knowledge base there from which you can get virtually any info you could possibly want instantly.

With that info, you can virtually immediately find out anything you want to know. I hope that helps get you what you need to know ASAP, & best of luck!