1715 Question & Fuse Location

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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 10:17 PM
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1715 Question & Fuse Location

Hey all,

I just bought the Superchips 1715 and attempted to install it...the problem I have is, which fuse disables the fuel system?

All the diagrams in the instructions have everything except the 1999 F150. The diagram shows #19 20 amp, but the #19 on mine is a 10 amp. Is this correct?

Thinking that this was the fuse, I installed it and put in tire height and gear size...after driving it, the speedo was read even worse (alot higher). Didn't feel much of a difference. Is the 9100 alot better than the 1715?

Thanks,
Dan
 
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 10:22 PM
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oh yeah, I have a 4.6L
 
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 10:42 PM
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ok...when in doubt check the owner's manual and the search engines on here...looks like it is the #10...I feel like a dummy. Well...before I did that, I set everything back to stock and I'll mess around with it later. But is the 9100 alot better than the 1715?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 10:53 PM
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Smile hey Dan

Many MANY people will tell you yes, the 9100 is far superior to the 1715. But, it depends on what you are looking for. My biggest problem with my truck was a super sloooow shift from 1-2 and no bottom end due to my 285's. The 1715 cured ALL of my concerns!
15 foot burn outs and 0 to 60 in 10 seconds. 11 seconds if I'm running the A/C

PS, that didn't happen over night by the way, though I wanted it to. It took a couple hundred miles and some fine tuning.
 

Last edited by justusinfla; Aug 17, 2004 at 10:57 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 01:51 PM
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Hello Dan,

Your first problem is you are attempting to judge results by the seat of the pants - that's a bad mistake, as most people can't even fee" a 15 HP gain in the seat of the pants in the F-150 (or any other similar truck or SUV).

You have a heavy truck to begin with, to which you have added a significant lift increasing it's aero drag/resistance, and further compounded that by installing bigger (and heavier) tires - I doubt you'd be able to really "feel" a 20 HP difference in peak power in the seat of the pants in that type of vehicle configuration.

To judge the results of *any* performance enhancement properly, what you need to do are properly controlled before & after timed acceleration testing - either at the drag strip or like most people do, simply using the GTech Pro Competition model performance tester on a side road somewhere - they're cheap & accurate, we carry 'em. Compare the "before" 0-60 and 1/4 mile times on the stock factory tune with the "after" times using the premium gas tuning in the 1715, and you'll immediately see an improvement there. We do a set of 3 runs - stock, tuned, and then stock again, all within a 90 minute period on the same day, to minimize the effects of weather variations, as they have a HUGE impact on the performance of any vehicle, but especially a modern computer-controlled vehicle.

Or, a less accurate method you can use would be to even do something like marking off an exact distance, and then seeing what speed your truck gets up to on the stock factory tuning from a standstill, and then 30 minutes later (a cooldown period to allow powertrain temperatures to stabilize and for you to flash the PCM) do it again with the maximum performance tune, and you'll see that you pick up some additional speed in that same distance with the tuning installed. It won't be a huge difference, somewhere along the liens of 1-3 mph - in a 1/4 mile in a truck that heavy & lifted, I'd say a 1.5 mph or more gain in the speed achieved in the same distance would be a significant result.

These heavy vehicles really change all the "rules" of evaluating the results of any performance modification or part - seat of the pants "feel" is basically little more than guessing - you need to actually "measure" the results in a meaningful & repeatable way, so you will *know* what you actually got.

Technically speaking, the 9100 is not actually "better" than the 1715 - there is no difference in the quality of the actual hardware itself - it's the *custom tuning inside* that makes the difference. To answer you in *practical* terms, yes, you'll get better results using our Troyer Performance custom tuning loaded into the 9100 custom Micro Tuner, as compared to using the 1715 "standard" Superchips Micro Tuner, that is absolutely true. Our custom tuning in the 9100, on average, delivers at least a 30% larger raw power gain than the highest performance tune in the 1715 Micro Tuner. It's the difference between Superchips "standard" performance tuning versus our *custom in-depth* tuning.

The 1715 Micro Tuner does a nice job - as you can see from "justusinfla's" response, there are plenty of people using the 1715 who are delighted with them. There's nothing "wrong" with the 1715 - it's just that for the absolute highest power and performance gains, going with our custom tuning in the 9100 version of Micro Tuner is "the best."

If you want to get the best possible results from tuning, give us a call at our number listed below when you get a chance, & have us work with you to do a set of 3 of our custom tunes in the 9100 Micro Tuner for you - we'll be happy to go over with you how to judge the results, etc. as well if you like, so you'll have some good guidelines in that regard & will have a decent way of actually quantifying your results.

I hope that info helps a bit,
 
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 08:13 PM
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Thanks for the reply guys,

I did tweak around with the 1715 and I am really happy with the results. I have come to the realization that I don't have a 3,000 lb bracket racer, what I'm most happy about is the enhanced shifts points and throttle response. It is a purchase I would recommend for anyone who has lifted their truck and put on larger tires.

Thanks for the informative comments Mike, I will continue to read on and seek further advice if I choose to go the 9100 route...but I'm pretty happy.

Cheers,
Dan
 
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Old Aug 23, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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Hi Dan,

You're more than welcome, glad to hear you're doing OK with the 1715 - and I hope I didn't inundate you with needless info or come off too strong in my response - please feel free to post your impressions, & call it like you see it!

You already know all this, but just for others reading, these vehicles (meaning the computer-controlled F-series trucks, especially the 1997 & newer models) are all geared very "tall" to begin with, in the automakers attempt to get the best possible fuel mileage - so a reduction in torque multiplication via taller tires hurts. A little bit taller can be tolerated by most, but usually once you hit a true installed tire height of about 33" or taller (now that's for *my* particular level of "tolerance" for taller tires without doing a gear ratio change in an automatic transmission model - everyone is different), doing a gear ratio change to restore the engine back to turning at least as many rpms for a given speed as it did with the stock tires becomes a potential consideration.

But a gear ratio change is a bit expensive (very expensive for the 4x4 trucks since they have to do both front & rear differentials), so many people will instead look to something like our performance tuning & recalibration of the speedometer to do the trick. For a number of owners, that adds just enough additional torque so that they don't feel they need to do a gear ratio change. Hopefully, you'll find yourself among that group.

Good luck,
 
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