Longer lasting wax?

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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 09:52 PM
  #31  
SSCULLY's Avatar
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by LTMARK
The flash and or melting point will be greatly increased when cured, as then the dissolvent has flashed off.

...<snip>...
#1, There is only ~ 20-25% Carnauba wax at most in any wax based LSP. Anything more and you would not get it out of the can, bottle forget it.

#2. With what you are posting, as soon as the wax dried, that would be all there was left on the surface, which you would mar the heck out of the paint taking it off ( pure Carnauba is that hard in native sate ). Any carrier that makes it liquid is gone at haze.
- BTW : that is not all that is left over after it drys - read the MSDS on it.

Look at the melting point of 845, only takes some warm water to turn it from a gel like goo, to something that would spray out of a sprayer with the nozzle all the way in.

Don't know where you got that little 0-10 rating listing above, it is full of dog dodo. 845 does not outlast Menz PL.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 01:32 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
Don't know where you got that little 0-10 rating listing above, it is full of dog dodo. 845 does not outlast Menz PL.
Uhh sure what ever makes you feel better, now I am reminded of why I moved onto other detailing boards.

And for the Third time, to the OP, MPL is the easiest to use, best looking, and one of the longest lasting products that is available, that is not a permanent or semi-perm coating.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #33  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by LTMARK
Uhh sure what ever makes you feel better, now I am reminded of why I moved onto other detailing boards....<snip>...
You think wax will outlast a poly LSP ?

Originally Posted by LTMARK
....<snip>...And for the Third time, to the OP, MPL is the easiest to use, best looking, and one of the longest lasting products that is available, that is not a permanent or semi-perm coating.
I never said other wise about Menz Power Lock, don't know why you have a post like I am disagreeing with this.
I never addressed your post about this topic, due to the fact I agree with it.

Might want to go look at post #12 up the thread.

Welcome to 4 days ago :
https://www.f150online.com/forums/4971858-post12.html
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 09:18 AM
  #34  
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From: Charlotte N.C.
Originally Posted by SSCULLY
You think wax will outlast a poly LSP ?



I never said other wise about Menz Power Lock, don't know why you have a post like I am disagreeing with this.
I never addressed your post about this topic, due to the fact I agree with it.

Might want to go look at post #12 up the thread.

Welcome to 4 days ago :
https://www.f150online.com/forums/4971858-post12.html
I am not suggesting/implying that you disagree, just feel as though it got lost in the shuffle.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #35  
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From: Rochester, NY, USA
Great, now that we've all kissed and made up, I'm buying a round for everyone. Oh wait. Steve's in Chicago. I'm in Rochester and LT is in Charlotte - which I blasted through twice last week on the way to and back from Florida. Any suggestions guys? I hate drinking alone!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #36  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by glc
Keep using the NXT, but after EVERY wash, spend 15 minutes with some Megs Ultimate Quik Wax spray. It's literally spray and wipe, as easy to use as a QD. It will boost the polymers.
I agree with GLC here. But, I have taken this a step further, with outstanding results.
Wash, clay bar, wax with NXT, seal with Liquid Glass, then the Megs Ultimate Quick Wax spray.
Liquid Glass is the extra step.
Ok all you detailers out there let the hammering begin!

http://www.autogeek.net/liquidglass.html
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 11:36 PM
  #37  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
no Hammering, but a question.

Is there a reason you do not have the Liquid Glass applied 1st ?
The application instructions read no wax residue on the paint before applying.
- As in naked paint, as most sealants recommend for application.

Hard to qualify with NXT.
The confused marketing fools at Megs call it a wax, but the terms they use make it sound like a poly sealant ??

Just a question on why you do it in that order, where the other way around seems ( read opinion ) as if the LG would last longer if applied direct to polished paint ( and if you do an IPA wipe down or similar ).
 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 06:48 AM
  #38  
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Basically there are three Last Step Products (LSP) products...wax, sealants and coatings.
From left to right (above) longevity and durability increase with each type of product.
The days of using wax on your grandpa's Oldsmobile are gone but IMHO waxes look best.
Now if you want something that "lasts" I'd pick a coating. CQuartz is a good looking coating.
Rule of Thumb: waxes last 2-4 weeks, Sealants 2-4 months and a Coating can last over a year.

The important thing is to have a swirl free finish on the paint. Preparation is the key for a good LSP.
 
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