Back on track..............

When I ask a question about the subject of the thread topic, I don't appreciate the thread getting crapped on. I know you haven't tried it and have no plans to do so, I don't want to hear about your stuff.

 

I comprehended what you wrote just fine. It was a wrong answer.


Still waiting for a sun shot of your "work".

 

For those of you wondering what Gipraw is taking Beechkid to task on here, let me offer some photographic evidence. The following pictures were taken during a 2 day detail of a jet black 2009 GMC Denali I did last year. The truck didn’t look awful from a distance when I started, but when you put it under a halogen spotlight this is what was really there:



After almost 2 full days of work, this is what that same fender (and the rest of the truck) looked like in direct sunlight:



And the real acid test was the same halogen light (protective grill actually showing at the bottom of the picture) after I was all done. This type of lighting shows just about any imperfection left in the paint. As you’ll see, most everything had been corrected.



So the pictures that Beechkid is sharing show several really nice vehicles, but they don’t truly show the real condition of the paint. That’s Doug’s point.

If you want to learn more about the products, process I used – and see a lot more pictures - swing by The Detailer’s Café for this post:

http://www.thedetailerscafe.com/smf/...p?topic=2463.0

 

Bump for comments on this SPECIFIC PRODUCT?

 

I have talked to a couple of guys that like it, but still haven't been able to give it a try myself.

My general opinion when I see stuff like this is that even if it is a great product, a lot of times it only makes sense for someone doing high volume where the time savings make it worthwhile.

If you are doing 5-10 cars a week, then it is worth trying. If you are doing 5 a month, then it becomes a cost justification thing, imo.

It isn't going to do a better job. It if works, it will do it quicker, and potentially save you money.

Just my two cents ..

 

You are entitled to your opinion, no matter how wrong.
Your opinion is worth less than the cost to get it, referencing your opinion on RR being a paid blogger for Megs ( could not be more wrong ).

Speaking of paid blogger, you seem to copy -> paste the same BS on multiple sites, maybe you are the paid blogger ??

The products you claim are "readily available" are actually harder to source than a Nanoskin Autoscrub.

Again, don't come into a Site sponsor's thread and bash their products.

They are paying to keep the site free, even for a troll like you to use.

 

I have not had a chance to try the 6" medium pad yet ( still working up to that project ).

I tried the towel and the 6" fine pad on my '06 with good results.

1. Follow the break in steps ( running on windshield ) prior to putting on the paint.

2. 6" Fine pad, I found the flex on speed 1 ( on fiberglass ) worked better than the PC on speed 3 to 3.5.
2.1. If the PC was at a lower speed, the rotation stalled and the pad just jiggled.
2.2. Seemed to work a bit better with ONR @ QD ratio ( 15:1 ) vs the Nanoskin Glide mixed @ 7:1 ratio.
2.2.1. I covered the section being worked with the sprayer all the way in to get a fine mist covering the entire surface, same a clay working.

The 6" pad I would almost say requires a Flex or a Dynabrade attachment on a rotary ( forced rotation like the flex ) to get the job done, without flinging the lube all over the place ( running the PC at a higher speed with less down pressure ).

If you take the street price of 50.00 for a 6" pad / 30 anticipated uses, you are at 1.67 per use.
- if you go 4" pad as to lessen the chance of stall on the PC, this is 2 pads for street price of ~60.00. Each pad is 30.00 with the same ~30 uses. gets the price per use to 1.00.

100g bar of clay is ~ 10.00, guess at 2 uses per bar ( cut in half, and used up in one car ) is ~ 5.00 per use.
- Making the assumption that the bar is shot when the car is done, not always the case. Assume 2 uses per 50g of clay is 2.50 per use.

Nice feature, you clean it against a grit guard in a bucket, no folding it and drop it the same process is used to clean it off and go back at it ( works, did it using on fiberglass just to make sure of the claim ).

I got less marring with the towel than the 6" pad.

Hard to say what the value of this is to the home detailer.
Time value of money added to the mix, might bring it up to 2.00 per use ??

I did the detailed writeup at The Cafe on the 6" fine pad and the towel.

If you have clay around, purchasing either the towel or the pad would make as much sense as buying more clay ( unless you have a place to unload the clay you have ).

Nanoskin really shines on glass applications. I used is on a car prior to glass polish, and it went real quick compared to traditional clay process.

If a person does not have clay sitting around, the towel would be a good purchase for anyone, regardless of the volume of work per month.
One time purchase and would last a long time ( 30 applications for a shade tree detailer is ~ 7 to 10 years ).

I still have a few bars of 2 grits of clay, and bought both 6" pads and the towel. I think fine clay would still work better on motorcycle windshields and helmet face shields ( have not tried the towel on them yet, I could be wrong about this ).

 

There were no bashing of the products...if the MFG & moderator did not want such opinions the thread would be locked.

No, I only provide the scientifically proven data documents & reports provided by both the automotive paint manaufactureres and the OEM's.....something people who function on PR & conjecture just can't relate to....science.

 

Ok, so when I have previously posted the pics during the past 10 years, you guys say "Its in the sun", show it in the shade, when its in the shade, you say show it in te sun, when I have show it in with the MC lighting system you say that has wax on it.......with regard to using clear water to rinse non-environmental dust off a freshly painted vehicle, well, that is a technique known as "Floating" where water is used to initially rinse, then create a surface for a wash towel to float across the surface with minimal contact with the paint...a technique used dating back to the 1940s for lacquer paint. The pics you show of your work, fine, however, the issue that visually you apprear to be mitigating is "routine" type swirl marks, a situation that any good quality hand glaze would correct.

ok, check out my old website of pics of a few of our vehicles...the Datusn was a featured vehicle in Truckin Magazine back in the early 80's.....the Mustang has 1 st place trophy and 6 2nd place trophies (including a best paint)...those who were active in SoCal in the 80's & early 90's know me well.



Oh and for those who may think they are removing environmental contaminents using a system like this......here's a single page (from the 20 page section) from both Fords & SW (auto paint supplier to Ford, GM & Chrysler), that explains with pictures why your paint may feel clean, but environmantal contaminents must be neutralized below the surface in the "paint pores" if you will,

and the surface of this new device is one that is very, very simlar (might even be made by) 3M....and has been around for about 10 years. EWhile I have not used this mfg's particular application device, I have used the material which appears to be 3M line for purposes other than this (ie, what the materials intended application was meant to be used for)....Oh yeah, I went to 3M and was trained on this as well....darn, there I go again!

 

I would like to ask the mfg/distributor a question.....

what is the specific grit rating of the product line?

Thank you.

 

No bashing, might want to go back and read what you posted :

It is a case of showing a bit of restraint towards those who pay to keep the site running, so you can post the same text over and over again.

Considering you have not used the product, and you only have a one track mind when it comes to paint, your opinion on the product is really just supposition. That does not make it science, that makes it an untested opinion.

Nice try at avoiding showing how the surface of the paint really looks, you have never shown any of your vehicles in direct sunlight or under any "lighting system" that shows what it really looks like.

You show the same shade pictures over and over again, along with 2 pages of the manual that do not say what you keep trying to claim.

The antique pictures on that web site are about as useful as a google satellite image.

You have been shown how pictures ( even without shade ) can be taken to make the paint look great, until shot straight on. The "good from far, far from good" picture.

BTW 2 things

1. A "good quality hand glaze" is not going to correct anything, it is going to cover it up. It makes the paint "queen for a day" look, next wash it is gone.

2. You can stop with the higher the grit, the higher the quality of the product line you have been trying as of late. Does not hold water.
If that was the case, the new 3M 5,000 grit sanding pads are a lower quality than the mirco mesh 12,000 grit pads. Not the case, a grit is selected depending on what the job requires, has zero to do with "quality" of the product.

 

To those of you who have actually posted about this product in this thread, THANK YOU! To Beechkid, go blow it out your ***. To those of you who took his bait and started chewing on him, shame on you. Don't feed trolls!

Why does EVERY SINGLE THREAD that mentions the word "clay" bring him in? He's expressed his opinion but this is getting VERY old. He's just as bad as Takeda where the word "Amsoil" brings him out of the woodwork.

 

So does this put me at a neutral position ?
- a pos and neg of the same value is zero.....

 

Just my .02 here..I have used the 3" nanoskin with plenty of detailing lube and, I must say, on the hood at least it works very well. This was done by hand, not machine. So far, I'm impressed with it. As far as 'Beachkid' goes.....he and 'Takeda' were hatched from the same egg me thinks !!!

 

Sam, would you say the 3 inch pad by hand is easier or harder to use than a clay bar?