Too soon to Wax?

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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #31  
Red02FX4's Avatar
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From: Bear, Delaware
Thanks Merlin! It is because of here I now frown upon the public car wash/public car brush idea. I was a more 'everyday' person that thought my vehicle was clean after doing the public car wash/brush routine. I have since seriously changed, except for an act of desperation...

And I can tell n appreciate the difference. Even at a young, but still willing to learn new things...48 years
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 09:13 PM
  #32  
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I'm in Western Massachusetts. My F 150 was Born the week of March 16. Thank you all for your input. The dealer is saying that it will arrive hear around April 1. My last truck was a 97 Ranger,bought brand new. I sold that outright a few weeks ago.
 

Last edited by bmac107; Mar 22, 2012 at 09:16 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:20 PM
  #33  
SSCULLY's Avatar
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by 2stroked
Steve, You can be the crash test dummy on the Aqua Wax. I have heard good things about it though. Personally, I mist each of my vehicles with Optimum Spray Wax before I dry them. It does two things. First, it lubricates the microfiber towel to minimize micro marring. Second, it's supposed to leave a thin layer of wax. (Both, just like AW.) Does it work? So far I've been happy. And the surfaces I apply it to feel pretty happy too.
Optimum Spray wax is one of the 2 optimum things I am sitting on thinking about. Have 40 min until the Detailed Image 20% off sale is up.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 12:59 PM
  #34  
iflyrc5's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Originally Posted by Merlin
I try to clarify acronyms when I put 'em out there.

2 Bucket Method
Two 5 gallon buckets with a Grit Guard in the bottom of each bucket.
This is a wash method that is used to reduce scratches and swirls on your paint.
First bucket with rinse water and the second one with car soap/water mixture.

Rinse a vehicle section. Wash with the mitt from the soapy water.
Rinse the section. Then rinse the mitt in the first rinse water bucket.
Then rinse the next vehicle section. Then put the mitt in the soapy water
Wash the next section etc. This keeps you from putting dirt in the soapy water.

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Here is a LINK to detailing acronyms

Acronyms:
LSP = Last Step Product This is the protection layer after the paint is prepared
LSP's can be a sealant, a wax or (recently introduced) a coating.
BFWD = BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection BFWD is a sealant.
BFMS = BLACKFIRE Midnight Sun Carnauba Paste Wax Think of BFMS as a wax.
Layering = Apply one coat then apply a second coat and even a third coat etc.

There is a process of applying two coats of BFWD then apply two coats of BFMS
It is called the "Wet Ice over Fire!" combo. To me this combo looks like a pool of water.

Layering always reminds me of the great "Back to the Future" line...
Biff, I want to make sure we get two coats of wax this time, not just one."

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As a rule...
Sealants (polymers etc.) create a shiny look and wax creates a look of warmth and depth.
Automotive paint Sealants last 3-6 months and most waxes IMHO will last about 3-6 weeks.
There is a HUGE amount of different LSP products on the market & more being added everyday.
Here's a jar of wax just you should look at for fun! Click Here ---> LINK <--- Click Here

Now that you think you have a clue...there is NO naming standard in the detailing industry.
I know of some products called wax and others called polish and both are actually sealants.
Everybody has a different idea of the "Look" they want & the Holy Grail they are searching for.
Confused yet???
I hope I helped.
Thank you very very much. This really helps explain things for us beginners.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #35  
M.YANCEY's Avatar
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From: Goldsboro NC
Well guys this is what I did 1st I took 3m finesse-it II and went over 1 panal at a time it took out all the mess the dealer did it look and felt slick as glass, and then I used mothers (reflections) top coat and let it haze and wiped it off and man did it look great. It also removed the haze that I put in getting the scratchs out with that scratch x. The 3m finesse it removed all the haze. I hope I did the right thing?? I hope it was not too soon??
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 11:46 PM
  #36  
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From: Cypress, TX
Originally Posted by M.YANCEY
Well guys this is what I did 1st I took 3m finesse-it II and went over 1 panal at a time it took out all the mess the dealer did it look and felt slick as glass, and then I used mothers (reflections) top coat and let it haze and wiped it off and man did it look great. It also removed the haze that I put in getting the scratchs out with that scratch x. The 3m finesse it removed all the haze. I hope I did the right thing?? I hope it was not too soon??
The only thing you did wrong was not post pics.

You should be fine.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:53 AM
  #37  
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I'm in Western Massachusetts. Thank you to all of you for the information
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:12 AM
  #38  
M.YANCEY's Avatar
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From: Goldsboro NC
Originally Posted by Gipraw
The only thing you did wrong was not post pics.

You should be fine.
Gipraw as soon a weather changes I will post them! lol lol The truck is in my shop out of the rain..
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 01:22 PM
  #39  
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From: Saskatchewan
To answer the OP's question....Yes it's safe to wax as soon as you get the truck. The paint will be fully cured as it's baked at the factory.

I'll be insisting on NO DEALER PREP when I take delivery on my 2012 in the next few weeks. Only way to ensure some kid working for minimum wage doesnt ******* up the paint when they wash it.
 
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