don't know if Gipraw, Merlin or 2stroked are trying this or not.
You would have to take my half assed opinion on it

 

I surf this section enuff to (kinda) know who is IT and who is s!!!t

I will take the results at heart... with pics as proof, of course

 

I ordered my F 150 for delivery in the next couple of weeks. I have never waxed a vehicle or even know what using a clay bar does for fear of doing more damage than good. How much should it cost me to have this done to my new truck?

 

Clay barring essentially removes contaminates from the paint and leaves it smooth as silk. There are plenty of threads for that on here. And it is something that you can do yourself, if so inclined. Heck, if I can do it... anyone can

 

First, take a small 24"x24" area and wash and dry the paint on that spot. This will insure it's clean.

To see if you need to clay your paint test it with "The baggie test". Put your hand in a baggie and feel.
Does the paint have a gritty feel to it? If so, then you should clay bar the paint to remove contaminants.
Clay bars come in different abrasive levels for a new vehicle I probably would suggest fine or ultra-fine.

It's easy to do.
Depending on the size of the bar you may need to cut the bar in half.
Flatten the bar and knead the clay into a round, flat pancake type shape.
Spray some Meguiars A-3316 16OZ Spray Detailer (easy to find) on the paint and clay.
Lightly rub the clay back and forth on the paint and insure that it glides without grabbing.
Do small 24"x24" sections at a time. Look at the clay. Is it dirty? If so, fold the dirty side into the center
This will expose clean clay. Repeat the process and check your work with the baggie until it feels smooth.

Folks in my area charge $60-$75 to clay bar a truck. Most of the folks (I personally feel) only do a good/fair job.
I personally rewash (Two bucket method) after I clay bar to insure I have removed any left over clay contaminants.
Once clean, then you need to put a Last Step Product (LSP) on the paint to protect it. I prefer sealant for longevity.

If I were you...I'd purchase a Megs clay bar kit from your local auto parts store and do it yourself. Here's a DIY video. How to Clay Bar

 

Where are you located?

As Merlin said, you can do it yourself, if you want to. It is not difficult, and there is lots of good help and advice available here, and other places.

If you do decide to take it to a pro, do your homework and make sure they know what they are doing. Try to look at some of their previous work. Talk to them about their processes, etc.

Good detailers can be found everywhere, but as a general rule, if it is a large, high volume shop, or at a car wash, you need to make sure that you look hard at their finished product. Not all car wash detailers are bad. That is where I started, but a lot of the high volumes places are more concerned with covering than they are correcting.

 

If you want to have it done right by a detailer that takes his time and pays attention to detail and uses appropriate products and techniques, I'd plan on at LEAST $200.

 

Are you talking $200 to clay bar and two coats of wax? If so, I believe that may be a bit on the high side.
Now if your talking clay, polishing to remove micro-marring after clay and sealant then that may be about right.

It is rare to find a new (delivered) vehicle these days that does not have the Dealer Installed Swirl Option (DISO)
In that case you can figure on about $300-$500 to get a "Better-than-new" clayed, polished, sealant and waxed finish.

For that I use a medium polish to removes fine scratches & swirls, fine polish to enhance the gloss then micro for jeweling the paint.
I follow this with two coats of a sealant (like BFWD) then two coats of a wax (I like to use the BFWD and BF Midnight Sun combo).
Sometimes, depending on the time, I'll use BLACKFIRE Gloss Enhancing Polish after the wash, clay, wash before applying the BFWD.

If this sounds like a lot of work...It is! Is it hard work?...No. Does it take time to apply the LSP layer(s)...Yes it does...RESULTS: Priceless!

 

Guys - I really appreciate all the great information but please take an extra minute to spell out the products and processes for us beginners. I have no idea what is ment by "2 bucket method", or BFWD Sealent, or BFMidnight Sun combo, or LSP Layers.

Basically, I am buy my first new truck in 12 years and want to make sure that I start out right by cleaning and then protecting the paint finish so it will stay looking good for many years to come.

Thanks again for all the information - please just "dumb it down" a little for us beginners.

Thanks again

 

Read the detailing sticky at the top of the forum and it will answer a lot of your basic questions. We can start filling in after that.

 

I try to clarify acronyms when I put 'em out there.

2 Bucket Method
Two 5 gallon buckets with a Grit Guard in the bottom of each bucket.
This is a wash method that is used to reduce scratches and swirls on your paint.
First bucket with rinse water and the second one with car soap/water mixture.

Rinse a vehicle section. Wash with the mitt from the soapy water.
Rinse the section. Then rinse the mitt in the first rinse water bucket.
Then rinse the next vehicle section. Then put the mitt in the soapy water
Wash the next section etc. This keeps you from putting dirt in the soapy water.

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Here is a LINK to detailing acronyms

Acronyms:
LSP = Last Step Product This is the protection layer after the paint is prepared
LSP's can be a sealant, a wax or (recently introduced) a coating.
BFWD = BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection BFWD is a sealant.
BFMS = BLACKFIRE Midnight Sun Carnauba Paste Wax Think of BFMS as a wax.
Layering = Apply one coat then apply a second coat and even a third coat etc.

There is a process of applying two coats of BFWD then apply two coats of BFMS
It is called the "Wet Ice over Fire!" combo. To me this combo looks like a pool of water.

Layering always reminds me of the great "Back to the Future" line...
Biff, I want to make sure we get two coats of wax this time, not just one."

-----------------------

As a rule...
Sealants (polymers etc.) create a shiny look and wax creates a look of warmth and depth.
Automotive paint Sealants last 3-6 months and most waxes IMHO will last about 3-6 weeks.
There is a HUGE amount of different LSP products on the market & more being added everyday.
Here's a jar of wax just you should look at for fun! Click Here ---> LINK <--- Click Here

Now that you think you have a clue...there is NO naming standard in the detailing industry.
I know of some products called wax and others called polish and both are actually sealants.
Everybody has a different idea of the "Look" they want & the Holy Grail they are searching for.
Confused yet???
I hope I helped.

 

Steve, You can be the crash test dummy on the Aqua Wax. I have heard good things about it though. Personally, I mist each of my vehicles with Optimum Spray Wax before I dry them. It does two things. First, it lubricates the microfiber towel to minimize micro marring. Second, it's supposed to leave a thin layer of wax. (Both, just like AW.) Does it work? So far I've been happy. And the surfaces I apply it to feel pretty happy too.

 

FROM A (still) ROOKIE POINT OF VIEW..............

1) Search button will answer most issues: https://www.f150online.com/forums/search.php

2) I don't think NO ONE can spell out Exactly what products and/or steps. I am still a rookie compared to Merlin,SSCULLY, glc and others..... but after much reading on this section, I kinda get it, have MY (confident) place to start.... and ask questions as I still learn.

Even the high end guru's on here each have their own way of doing things and their preferred order,products and equipment

3) I didn't take into consideration for such a detailing forum, but.... https://www.f150online.com/forums/ge...-glossary.html

LSP = Last Step Product... as previously inferred.

My opinion and only my opinion... search, read, read some more. THEN when you have an understanding of who does what,when and why you will be in a so much better place to get a quick,honest and trusted response.

Not bashing you. Just from what I have read in the past, the master detailers have become weary of the frivolous stuff and the (some feel) over done sponsor stuff.

Don't be discouraged...... be inspired. There is ALOT of info and knowledge here. When you know who is who.... you can always PM for advice .... just as I have done.


HAVE AT IT

 

2 Bucket Method = (2BM)

Start from the top down. I.E. Do the roof first.

2BM - In short
1) Rinse the paint section with a hose before you wash with the mitt
2) The mitt goes from the soapy water bucket to the paint section
3) After washing the section clean the mitt in the rinse water bucket
4) Rinse the area with a hose after you wash the paint section.
5) Repeat on the next paint section until completed.

DEF: Paint Section
A section of the vehicle...fender, hood, door etc.

 

Well said!

------------------
iflyrc5,

I understand you are excited about getting your new vehicle and want to take the best care of it possible.
We all have a love for our trucks here and wish to keep them running and looking as good, if not better, than new.