I have quite a few small chips on my truck that drive me nuts. I’m sure no one else notices them but I do. I ordered the Dr. ColorChip kit and would like to clay the truck at the same time. Which order should I go in? I was thinking...

Wash
Clay Bar
Wash
Dr. ColorChip
Wash
Wax

Now that I typed it up, it sure looks like a lot of washing haha.

Thanks for your help!

 

Update on how it goes. I keep putting off ordering a kit for mine.

 

Wash to clean paint
Clay to remove contaminants
Wash to remove clay residue
IPA where you're applying DCC
Apply Dr. ColorChip
Wait 12-24 hours for DCC to cure
Wash/Wax

 

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits (typically 5000 to 6000)- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals.

For general paint maintenance....... cleaning (if required) - use a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol & water (denatured is available at any hardware store & is oil free). It will remove any wax/polish and most all environmental contamination & ensure you are starting with a very clean surface.

For specific swirl mark issues I use BAF/Pro Car Care Beauty Products P21 Swirl Eliminator & Polish- although for 30 years I used 3M products specifically, recently I have not been as pleased with the quality of 3M’s hand glaze. I typically do not like "combination" type products but P21 is very, very impressive & effective from end result, ease of use & overall effectiveness.

Wax/polish...

The absolute best ($ for $) IMHO is "Satin Cream" (for dark colors), it is made by BAF & distributed through Pro Car Care products. It is very easy to work with either by hand, orbital or buffer. It has the same acrylic hardener as the high dollar paint sealants but it has 30% German imported carnauba....no, your arm will not fall off putting it on or taking it off & it has a very mild polish in it as well. Even parking the vehicle outside, the MFG gives a 6 months warranty before another application is required. I use this personally on my toys & daily drivers (which include a 1997 black Cougar sport) and all I can tell you are not even bugs like to stick to the paint- most of the time when water is applied they just float off- bird poop is just as easy. No smeary look either- very clean clear deep look. On my toys, I give them a fresh coat about every 2 years (literally, even for a show), my daily drivers (I have one that sits outside), I apply to the entire vehicle every 6 months, and do the hood, roof and trunk every 3 months (probably overkill, but I know it is well protected from the elements including industrial fallout)
BAF Industries 1910 S. Yale Street Santa Ana, CA 92704 800-437-9893

An excellent alternate product is 3M Perfect It Show Car Liquid Wax- a silicone wax/polish but excellent results as well, just maybe about 90% of the quality of the satin cream.

 

OP .. since you are new here, I will go ahead and state what most in this section already know.

Ignore beechkid, almost everything he says in this section is wrong.

If you clay correctly, there is no need to wash again. Doing a 50/50 wipedown for the areas you are repairing is enough.

 

I'm a believer in doing at least some form of mini-wash/clean after claying.
This does not have to be a full soap and water wash. Just clean the paint!
This is my cheap insurance so I know that no residue is left on the surface.
This can be done a few ways, water sheet/rinse, waterless wash, IPA etc.

I don't know about the (above) stuff but..."find what you like and use it often".

Some of the cars I have done the owners do not want any type of "water" car wash.
1941 Packard, 34 Ford, 59 Caddy, 56 Bel Air etc. The owners are afraid of water=rust

 

Thanks guys for all the advice. I'm really impressed with Dr. ColorChip. I started with just the tail gate to see how it went. Washed, clayed, IPA, then applied the paint. It's kind of sketchy throwing on blobs of paint on and smearing it around. Once you use the solution it buffs out and really looks good. I can’t even see were the chips are. I'm sure you guys would like before and after pics but regrettably didn’t take before pics. Thanks again for the help.

 

Thanks for the update.. I've been meaning to try DCC on some tiny chips for some time now but was hesitant. Guess I'll be placing an order soon .

 

Sounds like he is a technician.

 

That's not the word I would have used.

 

Although technicians have been known to use a "tool" on occassion......

 

Did you take any pics of using the Dr. colorchip? I am curious how easy is it and how well it works. I got a few imperfections that need fixed. Thanks

 

Funny how ICAR, the OEM's and Auto Paint Manufacturers seem to agre with me and not the "Detailing Experts" - proof is in the posted documents which you are well aware of and validates/verifies every point & recommendation....even Megs was sued by the FTC 2 years ago for making such claims as what the "detailing Experts" such as yourself are recommending.they pulled every single add.....the complaint was initiated by the OEMs & paint mfg's because of incorrect paint corrrection methods.



https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...y-bar-2006.jpg

 

Ignore that last post.

 

That Megs caly bar is not rated at 3500 grit?
That there are better (finer grit) clay bar products available rated in the 5000-6000 grit range?
Or that if there is a need for clay baring (wet sanding) a paint is necessary for correction, that is ok, just make sure you are using a good quality product for the right purpose?
or....
PPG, SW & GE paint engineers really don't know what they are talking about with these documents published (that are also printed in every mfgs service manual and viewable online at Helm's for $10) that clearly state the limitations of claybar?


which is exactly what has been stated and supported by the automotive industry publications and MFG's.