Okay, obviously..... don't let your truck get water sprayed, or sprinkled on it, right ?

Unfortunately, at my current residence, I'm forced to park on the street, in front of any one of 3 or 4 different surrounding houses.... all of which decide to water their grass, whenever I park in front of them

So last week (and the week before) I spent about 10 hours polishing my truck, with Meg 105, then 205, and then wax. Had it looking freaking sweet !
So, I go out a few days later, and apparently, my truck had gotten sprayed on repeatedly, for like 3 days, with VERY hard water Creating hideous, hard-core water spots on about 1/4 of the truck

I hoped the fresh wax would have protected against some of the spotting. NOT ! That crap soaked all the way through

So yesterday, after washing again, I went back over all the spotted areas, with 205 (I'm out of 105) then waxed again. Even that didn't remove the spots 100% Maybe 90 to 95%. Most people wouldn't see it, but looking in the right places, at the right angle, I still can
The worst part is my fiberglass bedcover.

Anyway, after I get some more 105, and cut it all the way down, then 105, then some pure polish glaze....

Would I be better off next time to use some sort of synthetic sealent, rather than wax ?

I've been considering this stuff: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/kus-kls-gla.html

What do you guys think ?

Thanks,
Fish

 

Klasse might get rid of them, since it is a cleaner wax. Granted, if you're having trouble with 205, it might not be enough.

 

I would definitely use a synthetic wax such as NXT 2.0. I'd also hit it with Ultimate Quik Wax after every wash job.

 

Thank you for the reply Elvato, but no, no....

I'm not asking about the Klasse as a way to remove the water spots. I have to believe that using the more agressive Megs 105, will do that.

I'm asking if the use of Klasse pure synthetic "sealent" (not the Klasse cleaner wax) would protect the paint from future water spotting, better than wax ?

Fish

 

GLC, now a synthetic "wax" brings up a whole other group of products to consider. To tell you the truth, I've used Megs NXT in the past, and wasn't too impressed. It didn't seem to last as long, nor wipe off as easy, and the Megs cleaner wax (red can) or the straight carnuaba (black / gold can).

But again, I'm wondering now about straight up synthetic sealents ?

Fish

 

Ah, I see. I was just saying since you said this happens quite often. Not sure how many 105 passes the clear can take?

 

I'm not sure how many polishings, starting with 105 "I could take" ! LOL That's a lot of freaking work !

I once asked about how much material was removed using a course polish like 105, with a DA machine, and was told that it is something like 1% of the thickness of most clear coats ! As long as I was doing it correctly. Of course corners and edges are little more of a concern....

Peace,
Fish

 

There is a difference between water spotting and etching. Sounds like you must be having etching problems? since you have to correct and polish again...so
Sealants and glazes will help greatly and keeping good wax protection will minimize spotting and etching but nothing is going to completely eliminate it except keeping standing hard water off and removing immediately in the first place. Since that is impractical in your case, synthetic or blended waxes, glazes and sealants will give you much more and longer protection than Caruba alone.

On NXT...
If you were having problems removing it, you used it wrong and you are mistaken if you think Megs cleaner wax or any straight carnuba last longer. Since perception is 99% of individual reality you believe NXT is inferior. Go read up on the products you discuss on the Meguiarsonline.com site and read what the company, professional detailers and long time users say about the products. Nothing will beat 2 coats of NXT 2.0 for ease of application, shine and durability...except maybe Collinite and Zymol products.



Lastly, with a DA you are not going to hurt your clear coat if you compound and polish 2 times a year. You should not have to compound (M105) that often once you correct your finish but it would take more than occasional DA use with M105 to completely remove clearcoat unless there were other issues to start with.
If you do not already, I would suggest you try removing all the wax products present before you polish or compound by wiping the area down with a microfiber soaked 50/50 mix 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.
It may even remove some of the waterspots but you will find that correcting defects will go much easier and faster.

Good Luck Fish.

 

Thank you Old Dogg.

I wouldn't doubt that for a second. One thing I have learned, is that if you have any wax, or polish, that doesent want to come off easily, a little shot of detailing spray on a fresh microfiber towel makes it easy as can be.

I hadn't.... But I had wondered about this. Great tip ! Will do this the next time, before I polish.

So, you like Collonite, and Zymol products a lot ? Do you know anything about Klasse synthetic glaze ? I assume that Collonite, and Zymol both make a pure synthetic glaze, also. I wonder which of these would be best ? Or, if they are all so close, it would come down to personal preference ?

Thanks again,
Fish

 

The proper way to use NXT 2.0 is put it on with the provided foam pad VERY THIN, and let it dry for an hour before removing. You can also use a DA at low speed with a finishing pad to apply it, the VERY THIN caution applies here too. If you see any chalkiness when it dries, you put it on too thick.

 

Just thought I'd brighten your day http://www.amazon.com/Zymol-12001-Ro...0283383&sr=8-9
You do however get free zymol refills for life.

 

Something to remember is that waxes will dissipate and water/bird poop will spot/etch faster on the hood, roof and trunk than it will on the sides, front and rear because of sun.

When it comes to NXT, if it is hard to get it off, you used too much or didn't let it dry completely...then you may be making matters worse (by wiping who knows how much off) with detail spray before the polymers cure.
Always remember, NXT 2.0= easy on, easy off.

I have personal experience with Zymol products and they are not easy off compared to most waxes but they do last longer than many.
Collnite I have never used but many detailers I respect swear by it...esp as a last over the winter wax.

When it comes to my preferences, after polishing & maybe a glaze I use NXT as a base coat polymer I put other synthetic base carnuba waxes over every 30 days or so...and when I really want it to pop I top with pure carnuba.

With proper mild soap hand washing in the warmer months most Carnuba waxes alone may last 30 days. A good synthetic wax alone will last 60 days or more. Carnuba (to some)looks & shines better, synthetics last longer.
A mixture of both lies somewhere in the middle in looks & longevity.

 

That's alot of trouble to go through. I think I'd find a neighbour who takes care of his house but doesn't give a rats *** about his lawn and park in front of that one.

 

The following worked for me:

1. Wash Truck
2. Clay Bar kit
3. DA Polisher with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, Scratch X 2.0 and NXT Wax 2.0
4. Clay Bar kit and Mother's Chrome Polish for the glass.

Keep a bottle of Detail Spray, Stoner's Invisible Glass and a few micro-fiber towels in your truck for quick clean-up's. My wife, family, kids and friends harass me all the time about keeping the above in my vehicles. LOL...

James

 

Zaino is a really good sealant and lasts forever it seems