Well, been wanting to clay bar my truck for awhile now, but didn't want to mess it up. Only waxed a vehicle twice in my entire life, and the first was with help. So, figured I would try it out on my Jeep first. My jeep was looking pretty bad, and needed a good wax as well, so I hopped to it today.

Before I touched the Jeep:





After some hood work:





All done:






What do you guys think? It's not as shiny as I remember it getting. Maybe it's the lack of sun.
How long do you guys let the wax sit before removing? How thick of a coat? First time I waxed, the was left the Jeep white, this time, it was clear, just made the paint blurred. Was I not putting thick enough coats on?

With the clay bar, do you guys keep going over the area until it feels smooth under the clay, or just do go over the area a certain number of times, then move on?

 

We'll go in order. With clay, use lots of lube (any quick detailer will do) and do a section at a time. I use a light touch with the back of my fingers to check my work but some people like to use a plastic sandwich bag. Depending on the condition of the paint you may need to go over it multiple times. By the time you get a panel or three under your belt you'll have a better idea on how much time to spend per pass. Just keep it lubed. Never use clay on dry paint.

With wax, thinner is better. The more you put on, the more you're wasting. Some waxes will go on clearer than others. Some are easier to remove and some are a real PITA to remove. Gernally though, the thicker you put them on, the harder it is to remove. As for when to remove, the finger swipe test is a good method. Using your finger, swipe the paint. If it seems to come right off then it's ready. If it smears or smudges then give it a bit more time.

If the paint isn't as shiny as it once was it is probably because it needs to be polished. Over time, especially with improper washing and drying techniques, you're introducing fine scratches that will give the paint a dull look and also in direct sunlight show swirl marks.

 

You might want to read the detailing sticky and read up on the multiple steps required to do it right. Clay, clean, polish, THEN wax.

 

Hey it's not perfect but I would say it looks good compared to what it was. Good job,.

 

Oh heck yes - I'm just saying that there's a lot more that you can do.

Is that single stage paint? If your wax applicator turned red, it is. That needs somewhat different treatment than clearcoat.

 

No idea what kind of paint, but I'm almost positive it's stock. Don't think the applicator turned red, but the microfiber towel sure did.

Yea, I completely forgot about the polish. I read the sticky about 6 months ago, and thought I remembered everything. I used Mcguire's wax, is that the kind of wax I can double coat, then put a coat of cannabu wax on? (spelled that wrong I'm sure)

 

If the MF turned red, then it's single stage. You might as well just use old school cleaner wax (ColorX is very good for this), rubbed in REAL THIN with a foam or MF applicator and allowed to haze, then remove with a MF.

For your truck with clearcoat, take it in stages as suggested in the sticky. The most important thing is do not apply product thick, it will be a bitch to remove. Spread it way out and rub it in.

If you do your truck by hand, I'd do this as a compromise between appearance and labor:

Wash
Clay
ColorX or DC step 1

Take a good look. If you have any areas with scratches, hit them with ScratchX 2.0.

Finish with NXT 2.0. Top with pure carnauba after a 12 hour cure if desired, it will show improvement on dark colors, especially black. Not necessary on lighter colors.

To maintain it, use Megs Ultimate Quik Wax after every wash job. It is a spray and works just like detailing spray. Mist it on and wipe it off.