I have an oxford white truck and every spring the sides are covered with tiny little rust spots or "rail dust". Every Spring I clay by hand and go over the entire process of bringing it back.
This past winter I screwed up my elbow so claying by hand is out of the question. Is there a product and \ or method I could use with a porter cable or similar DA to remove the spots?'
I wash my truck every week even all winter so the spots are very light and do remove easily. If I put a dab of "cleaner wax" on a rag and use little pressure they go away but the truck is just to big for my elbow this spring. Can I accomplish removing these spots with a machine?


Also if this will work and you have a chance please point me in the direction of a good beginner DA kit with everything I may need included.

Thank you

 

I think I have answered my own question by shopping at autogeek.

Paintwork Clay Pad.



Thank you

 

I know some will disagree with me, but I'm not a huge fan of claying. True, lots of folks have posted in raving about how smooth their paint feels after claying, but as one of my mentors once said, "Sure it feels great, you just slobbered a whole bottle of Quick Detailer on there as clay lube." It's also a whole lot of purely manual work and done incorrectly, one can actually induce surface marring during the process.

I only use clay where there's a really significant "imbedded junk" issue with a vehicle. Most other times I go straight from (proper) washing to either my PC or my rotary with appropriate polishes and pads.

 

Thats precisely why I use purified water and nothing else when I use a claybar. Using any sort of other cleaner or lubricant just doesn't work as good as pure water does. It doesn't cause damage and you are really taking the marks, spots, and bugs out and not just covering them with cleaner.

Use the plastic bag test and see just how big of a difference it will make. Before you start on an area with clay, put your hand inside a plastic grocery bag and run your fingertips across the body panel. It will feel like 80 grit sandpaper. Then clay it and do it again. Once you can run your hand over the panel without feeling anything through the bag, you are done.

I've been detailing for 4 years and have never once used anything other than plain old water to clay. Never understood the soap or detail spray method. Water works perfect everytime.

 

Claying is not always required, but it can not hurt, if done correctly. Use the plastic bag test. Clay, then do a 50/50 wipe down .. you will still see a difference, and it won't be due to the QD you used.




I am not a big fan of plain water, personally.

 

Call Rick at Auto Detailing Solutions http://www.autodetailingsolutions.com and talk to him .. He can get you set up with what you need to best suit your purpose.

 

I'm generally cut from the same cloth here...

While I have used water for claying in the past, I find that most QD sprays will actually offer greater lubrication between the bar and the paint thus allowing for LESS potential for marring.

Most QD sprays will have some kind of a silicone or surfactant that will, in my opinion, work better than water.

To each their own though... if it's working well for you and you're not experiencing any problems, that's probably what you should be doing.

2stroked -- haven't we taught you anything? LOL!

OP - another option that you may consider is acid washing. It's a bit more detailed and may take a bit more time but, in your medical shape, and with the overall recurrence of the spotting, it may do a slightly better job at getting the metal that is embedded in your clear coat out of the finish.

I'd highly recommend the Valuguard system... it's about $60 and is a three step process.

 

When in doubt CLAY.

 

I'd snag a neighbor kid and show him how to clay - and pay him to do it for you. There is nothing better than clay for getting rid of rail dust.