haha you guys get way to worked up i was just tryin to get some information and advice to point me towards the right direction. I just want to spend a couple hrs makin my truck look nice and not go all crazy. I have looked at the sticky detail but it doesnt recommend any polish just how to do and apply. and for the questions........ By hand, black truck, paints in pretty good condition, factory paint, can do it in or outside, i dno what the weather will be like, just want to spend couples hrs making it look nice, not much skill level

 

Well your much like myself. I do wash, clay, scratch x, polish then wax, however, I don't pay much attention to the types of questions asked by another individual, I ain't that die hard! Just go to your local auto store or wally world and pick up a meguiars polish and wax (nxt 2.0). I apply both by hand with a foam applicator pad, then take it off with a quality microfibre cloth. I just detailed my truck the other day with snow still on the ground, and my truck is Black also... Honestly, for how long these things stay clean, "I" don't go overboard with the detailing...

 

just use the "wax" setting on the pressure washer at the car wash

 

Did you read my response (post #13) ?

 

Those are the kind of posts why RR doesn't even post that much anymore ..

 

^+1

Generally the people come to this section of the forum for advise on how to do things right. Yes the frequentiers (probably made that word up) to this section do have OCD, but I see it more as we are proud of our vehicles and want to keep them looking great. For me personaly, I love watching that new lexus pull up next to my truck and not being able to take their eyes off of it bc the paint just pops a 1000 times better. And yes the guy may not be as die hard about detailing his truck, but how are we supposed to know that? So RR, RP, and several other detailing guru's do there best to help people that ask questions. And they take extreme pride in what they do and its great that they share that knowledge on here.

 

1. Wash and dry it.
2. Use a clay kit. This makes a HUGE difference.
3. Take a good look at it. If you are satisfied with how it looks right now, use NXT 2.0 and you're done. If not satisfied, figure out what you will need to do the correction. This may involve something like ColorX or the Deep Crystal step 1. You may need ScratchX in spots.

You will need appropriate applicators for any intermediate steps (the NXT 2.0 comes with a foam applicator) and decent quality microfiber towels for product removal. The clay kit should come with a QD to use as a lubricant.

I think this should cover it without being OCD or doing a half-*** job.

 

ADS sent me megs #80, #83 and NXT Tech Wax 2,0 and a clay kit along with a g110 DA polisher.

i told rick at ADS that i wanted to clay, polish and wax my 2007 truck.

why would he send me #80 and # 83?

aren't these one in the same only one cuts heavier?

how would you guys use these three products with your DA polisher after you've clayed your gold, 1 year old finish that has no visible scratches in the finish?

thanks.

 

You can send them to me if you want

Anywho, yes and no-- #83 cuts heavier than #80, but note that you HAVE to use #80 if you use #83... #83 tackles heavy stuff, #8- does lighter work.

I would NOT use #83 if there are no scratches... You must have gotten lucky. The offer still stands about the #83-- but we can work out a deal through PMs if you want to get rid of it.

If I was you, I would wash, clay, then use #80 with a yellow pad on speed setting 3.5 or 4 (work it in, let it fully break down, then wipe off BEFORE it dries), then use NXT 2.0.

The reason why I think you shoudl use #80 is that I am betting there are some swirls hiding under a think layer of dust, plus it is a sort of abrasive cleaner, too. It can get out what washing and clay dont get out. Overall, you should be VERY impressed with the look.

Any more questions/comments/concerns? PLEASE feel free to ask-- I know this can be a touch overwhelming at first.

 

thanks f-150sport03. that plan is what i've been thinking about for a few days now and it makes sense. because the #83 had the word "polish" on the bottle and the #80 didn't, i got a little confused.

back in the old days, we called something like this, "rubbing compound" because it would buff out any dirt and stuff that was left in the paint and then, we would "wax".

i'll probably use the #83 on my wife's car because she has a descent amount of surface scratches and that'll be a good challenge for me.

again, thank you and everyone here that offers your expertise to n00bs like me!

 

Yeah... nowadays there is an ultra specific term for everything... (ie: sealants and carnaubas rather than 'wax')... I feel ya.

Good plan for the #83. That kind of thing is where it comes in a LOT of handy. FWIW, D151 (paint reconditioning cream) has a similar cut at the beginning, then diminishes, then turns to a polish, then to a wax for an all-in-one type thing-- see hwm's threads about the Durango and Ram 2500... Those were done with D151... So if/when you need more goodies, that may be an option. NOTE: My intel on D151 is PURELY from what I have heard and read. I am anxiously awaiting to try it out.

 

BEAUTIFUL!! haha...I dont have anything intelligent to say about this, I just read it hoping to learn something!

 

wow, who brought this thread back?

 

Actually, the term 'rubbing compound' is still utilized but, you typically won't hear it called 'rubbing'... just 'compound'.

#83 is not a compound. #84 & #85 are compounds. Just a quick FYI...

Compounds, like you guys know, are for aggressive cutting - typically to remove super heavy oxidation, sanding marks, or other serious imperfections. In nearly all cases, you'll be forced to follow a compound with something with less cut to get the paint back to normal...

For example - yes, they're my Meguiar's pictures from the advanced class again -- I'm sorry for those of you who have seen them a thousand times but, I'm using them to show something now:

Note the top of the trunk. Those are 2000 grit marks made by a palm-type pneumatic sander (body shop equipment) with Mirka abrasives...



Now, note the top of the trunk. This is after utilizing #84 and then #81 as a finisher (if my memory serves me correctly). We actually started with #85 Diamond Cut and realized that the #84 w/ a wool pad did a much better job of really taking out the sanding marks... Please ignore the guy at the back of the shop that looks as though he's plotting to kill me.



-RP-