Okay guys. I need some advice. I've been detailing for a while now, and been taking care of the exterior exclusively with a PC. The PC is generally enough to do the job, yet I've come to realize why some folks say that one has to go to the rotary now and then. Defect removal is simply done more efficiently with a rotary. So, I went out and got one.
I've used pneumatic rotary polishing tools in spot-defect removal applications in my work in sanding prep and polishing for an auto supplier. I'm no stranger to the feel of a rotary tool, and I basically know where the boundaries are. One simply has to take care when using rotary tools.
My question is, what size backing plate should I go to? I was hoping to use a the same size plate as is on the PC so that I could interchange pads. Is this prudent? Do I need to go larger?
Should I stick to foam pads? I've read of the horrors of using lamb's wool, but I know of one old pro who is perhaps the best in North Alabama who uses lamb's wool exclusively.
Should I stick to the flat foam pads or go with the waffle pads?

Any help?

Thanks.

 

Any combo you use with the rotary will be more aggressive with the PC. So lets say Im using Menzerna 106FF with a light cutting pad, but its not removing everything. I could put that exact combo on the rotary and remove those imperfections.

When starting out, you should start with a smaller pad. Go with the 6.5" pads with 5" backing plate. Foam pads are fine. If you are using a cutting pad from any other company besides Lake Country CCS, then your cutting pads should be wave pads. This will help reduce hoping. Polishing pads dont hop as much. As you get better with the rotary, you can step up to larger pads. I would wait to get wool pads until you get more practice.

 

I would echo what Dan said about the wool pads .. stay away from them until you get a good feel of the rotary.. there are times when it is needed, but I find myself grabbing the wool much less than I used to.

as for pad size, you will be fine with the 6 inch pads..

I actually use the Edge 8" pads these days on my rotary, and really like them. they are a little on the pricey side, but they do a good job, and I like the fact that they are always perfectly centered.

another thing I recommend to help get the feel of a rotary.. go to a salvage yard, and pick up and old hood to play around with .. it gives you a good surface to mess around with the rotary, or practice wet sanding, or rock chip repair, without worrying about damaging your own vehicle .. you can usually grab a hood for $20 - $30 bucks.. try and get one with decent paint on it ..

 

I agree with what both Gip & 03Mus mentioned.

Gip's recommendation about snagging a 'trash' hood and practicing is how many of us 'cut our teeth' with a rotary.

It is, indeed, a much more powerful tool and you can get yourself into trouble with it if you're not paying attention. Today's modern clear coated finishes are much more forgiving than yesteryears' single-stage paints. Further, film builds on today's vehicles are a bit more consistent and thus, safer/easier to work on under normal circumstances.

A tip to all who use a rotary on an occasional customer car -- be sure to ask your customer if the vehicle has been repainted in any areas. Reason being is that the clear build in the repainted areas may likely be MUCH thinner than the factory film build. As such, you should treat those areas with GREAT respect...

There's nothing worse than working on a vehicle that has clear and looking down and seeing color on your pad. While this hasn't happened to me (*knocks on wood*), I know detailers who have repainted vehicles out of their own pocket because of errors in judgment along these lines.

-RP-

PS: Just got your email.... sorry man. I've been up to my eyeballs in alligators. I hope this response is sufficient.