Alright I got a PC and supplies from ADS for Father's day and I'm finally gonna break it out and use it to detail the truck tomorrow. My plan is to get up about 7 AM and start because I have no shade and want to take advantage of as much cool weather before that sun peaks out.

Here's the plan;

Wash
Clay
#9 or #80 (question #1)
#21
#26 (question #2)

1. My question is do I need to use both the #9 and the #80? The swirling/water spots aren't too bad on the truck because I've taken care of it pretty well, but there are some.

2. Do I wait the 12-24 hours before applying the #26?

Are there any steps that I need to do in addition to what I have above?

Thanks

 

you can use both the #80 and the #9 .. in that order . .. always go most agressive to least agressive with your swirl remover/compound/polish line up ..

I almost always follow up #80 with #9 .. it does a nice job of cleaning up any small micro marring issues that might exist, plus #9 has some filler in it, so it will hide any small defects you might have missed, or not totally removed.

use the 8006 pad for both #80 and #9, speed of 4.5 to 5 .. use the 9006 pad for #21, speed of 3 - 3.5

you should wipe off the #80 and #9 immediately, as there is no need for the product to set up .. and make sure you do not "dry buff"

Wait at least 12 hours after the #21, prior to the #26. you want the sealant to cure and bond, prior to putting the carnuaba on top of it.


good luck .. and have fun!!! post before and after pics when you are done ..

 

I thought you had to wait on the NXT and not the #21 to set up?

 

I never wait... I apply #26 right after applying my sealant/polish and finish off with quick detailer. If I waited till the next day it would potentially be too dirty to wax - and I'm not going to wash it twice on back-to-back days. Bug splats from driving, pollen from the trees, bird crap, etc.etc. I personally believe you don't have to wait over night for a sealant or polish to cure.

 

same basic product .. 12 hours is the suggested time .. you can go quicker if you want, but 12 hours is the minimum suggested time to allow the polymers to fully bond.

 

I just had some pocket flares installed on my truck. Is it safe to hit them with the products and the PC or should I do them by hand?

 

it is not a necessity, but it will take some amount of time for the product to fully bond .. 12 hours is a good minimum time .. right after application is probably the worst case scenario, and it is minimizing the products effectiveness .. to what degree? who can say for sure .. potentially severely hampering it .. the issue it the amount of time it takes the ploymers left on the surface after you wipe it off to fully dry, and bond with the clear coat .. while it may not take 12 hours .. it also doesn't happen immediately .. so if you follow over the top immediately, you are losing some benefit of the sealant.



you can always QD it to clean off any dust prior to topping with the carnuaba ..

I usually do an over night wait ..

 

when were they painted? did the paint shop recommend a length of time to wait before waxing ?

 

Trust me on this one...I know too well what the "cure" time for paint is.


If they were painted in the past 60 days in the heat then you will be fine. If it has been raining and cool, 90 days.

 

Flares were just painted on Tuesday so I guess I'll be waiting awhile befoe I hit them with anything.

 

I painted, polished, and waxed my front bumper on my old truck all in the same day with no noticeable ill side effects, lol.

 

Yeah... paws off for a while.

 

Thanks all for the responses.

So RP, how does my process look to you? I'm going to hit it with both the #80 and then the #9. Also what have you found to be the easiest way to get the #26 onto the polishing pad? After watching the How-to use the PC video I'm almost wishing I would have went with a liquid wax such as NXT.

 

Use a terry or foam applicator (the small ones) to get the paste from the tin to the pad.

The process looks pretty good to me! Best of luck!

 

I've started and actually am doing my test spot right now after washing and claying the truck. So far I had made 2 passes with the #80, 1 pass with the #9 and I just applied #21. That brings up a question. On the chart you ahve posted that shows the pads and spees to use with various Megs products, #21 isn't listed. I treated it the same as #20 is listed and used a #9006 pad on speed setting 3 to apply it. I'm just waiting for it to dry, but I coudl certainly see a difference after the #80 & #9 applications.

What's the best way to do the hood and roof? For the hood I'm speaking of the middle up towards the windshield, on a lifted truck this is pretty difficult. The roof of my truck has pretty much been ignored up until now with the exception of washing.

Also if the whole truck didn't look like it needed #80 or #9 applications would you go ahead and do them anyway since a portion of it was already done? Or should I just go straight to the #21 and then a coat of #26 tomorrow or later this evening?

Thanks