My first detailing adventure!

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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:36 AM
  #31  
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NCSU- LOOKS AWESOME!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 10:43 AM
  #32  
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Hey guys, should my pad be cleaner than this before I use it again? Any tips on how to get the gunk out?





RP, when you say "abrasive polish" are you talking about swirl removers, or more of a true polish?

Thanks!
-NCSU
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 04:55 PM
  #33  
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**YES**

Murphy's Oil Soap... use a 'blob' about the size of a quarter... press it into the pad, work it around. To rinse, allow the pad to fill up with water and then press it out -- repeat SEVERAL times.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 05:33 PM
  #34  
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I've had pretty good results using Simple Green on PC pads. Soak 'em down pretty good and let it sit for a few minutes, work it into the pad and then rinse it out.

If the Simple Green doesn't get it all out, you can use Super-Clean. Just make sure to rinse ALL of the Super-Clean out of the pads with plenty of water before you re-use the pad.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 06:46 PM
  #35  
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10-4. Thats what I figured. Thanks guys!

- NCSU
 
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:50 AM
  #36  
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Looks like you are making good progress. I just bought a new '06 scab from a dealer in Boise. Turns out Boise has such bad air and acid rain that every new car dealer in that town gets the rain spots etched in their paint on every car on the lot. I live in WA, where that's not a problem yet. Anyway, I tried the clay bar to see if that would work on the spots. It didn't, but scratch-x does and does not seem to affect the clear coat.

I used to have an '84 Mustang GT convertible (black on black) back in the day. One day I was at an auto show and picked up some of this stuff called liquid glass. It was a pain to prep the car, remove old wax etc., but man I have never seen anything that made a car shine so deep and last so long. It did take a few coats and you are supposed to let it bake in the sun to help it cure. I swear birdsh*t would bead off after that though. Made washing and drying like a 20 minute job. If anyone decides to try it, don't use their pre-cleaner. That stuff is too abrasive and will scratch clear coats.

Have any of you guys ever tried it? I'm going to put some on my new truck, as soon as I get all of the water spots off.

Allen
 
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:39 PM
  #37  
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Murphy's Oil Soap = More good advice from RP!



Now that's looking better! I think there might still be some of the soap in there because now its a slight pinkish color...

- NCSU
 
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 11:52 AM
  #38  
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Cleaned the truck again.... didn't take many pic's but here's a pic after the detail...



- NCSU
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:33 AM
  #39  
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Lookin great!! get some tire shine on that bad boy
 
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 01:23 PM
  #40  
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just a quick question but is it true that you cant burn up your paint with a da?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 12:33 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ridge
just a quick question but is it true that you cant burn up your paint with a da?
Pretty much. You'd have to be using a pretty abrasive compound to do damage with a DA. Seach for PC detailing and you'll find plenty of info.

- NCSU
 
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 10:43 PM
  #42  
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Another few hours spent washing, waxing, dressing and a little something special



Shiny ain't she?

- NCSU
 
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 11:11 PM
  #43  
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That truck is looking very good. It has really come a long way since those first pictures you posted in this thread!

Question. What caused all the swirl marks initially?
 
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 11:46 PM
  #44  
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Swirls will be caused by oodles of simple things... remember, swirls are just scratches...

Washing, for example, is a great way to introduce problems. Obviously you try to reduce most of the risks but, ultimately, you can't.

The way that I find that I induce the most problems is using QD sprays (Quick Detailer products). I'll get in a hurry and wipe down around an area that might have a little more road dust and then wipe into an area that may not. I know I've induced 'several' straight line scratches (light but, obvious to me) in my paint over the years by just not using that common sense that I preach so much about.

Other items that induce paint problems include:

claying incorrectly -- drying incorrectly or with poor equipment -- climbing around in your engine compartment and rubbing against the paint -- brushing against your paint with your clothes -- hard water can even cause problems (minerals in the water crystallizing on your towels and then you rubbing your towel across the paint).

In short, it's the classic 'damned if you do -- damned if you don't' scenario. We all try to minimize these risks but, ultimately, the paint gods win... and we have to polish and such to remove it all again. Today's modern clear coated finishes are a gift compared to old single stage paint from that perspective!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 08:01 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by RockPick
.

G'luck. Oh yeah... get that wax off around the emblem!!

RP

............and around the base of the antena!!!!
 
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