One question. Did they repaint your truck or buff/detail it?

 

[QUOTE=JesseSVT]heres a tip you might find useful -

try what a few people have said by first applying color-x, then go back over it with scratch doctor. but do not wax by hand, go buy a mini handheld wax orbital (cost around $25 at wal-mart or auto parts stores)



Do you have a picture or part number for a mini hand held ordital. Ive beed looking for one.

 

Yes the whole truck was repainted. There was swirls in it from when they did it. So I went over it with my makita rotary with a 3m polishing wool type pad. So either the 80 or the pad swirled it. I just hit it with the Merzerna polishes yesterday and it looks alot better but I can still see some very very light swirl where the machine pad was. Almost all the work i've done with the rotary has been on Mack trucks (no clearcoat) and a ton of alumnium.

 

i have to say that i have buffed prob around 20 cars last year with only one getting swirls. swirl marks come from using a dirty pad or having dirt on the car once you start waxing. foam is definitley harder to control than wool i burned some paint with foam but never with wool. also i only use a pad once. spend the eight dollars and get a new pad.

 

Wool has a greater amount of cutting power than foam.

While I agree with your thought that pads can be dirty, caked, and can thus cause 'swirls'... I don't agree that wool is a better choice.

I remove wetsanding scuffs with wool... foam won't touch it -- well, not in a timely manner.