Surprised no one has mentioned S100 wax. If you want something that is easy to apply and remove and gives you a great shine look no further. Pick if up at your local Harley Davidson store. I love this stuff.

 

I think the mirrors will be ok to let sit for another three weeks and then use #80 on them. Can I buy #80 in any stores, or do I have to buy online? I'm going to use it on the entire truck. Is there any special things to do with it that would be different then regular waxing? Should it be followed up with anything other than NXT wax?

 

#80 can be found at most paint and body shop supply stores... check out www.meguiars.com and utilize the dealer locator feature... that should point you in the right direction.

The way you phrased your question, it sounds as though you think that 80 is a 'wax'? It's an abrasive polish... it offers no protection.

You should follow the #80 with a protection step... remember though, don't proceed to the next step (ie: moving from polish to wax) until you have everything in line and up to your exacting standards...

RP

 

Sounds good. So I need to look at the autodetailingsolution.com website and find a good protection type item. Then after that will come the NXT Tech Wax. Do you do this by hand or are you using the porter cable? The more layers of wax on wax off I'm going to have to do to this truck to get these swirls out, the more I'm thinking it's worth to put the Porter Cable on my credit card.

 

NXT is a good selection in my opinion for your protection stage. On black and other dark colors, I like to apply one or two coats of NXT and then follow with two coats of a good carnauba. Carnauba, in and of itself, offers good protection but, more so than the protection, deepens the finish and really makes the vehicle stand out. NXT is good stuff solo but, I still stand by my original opinion that it yields a 'glassy' or what's often called 'suran wrapped' look by itself. The protection is good but, it's too glossy and lacks depth...

The PC would help out but, from what I've seen, it can be done by hand. Obviously, the machine will cut your time down considerably but, by the same token, it is an investment and a continual investment at that because you won't make a couple of foam pads last forever with the machine; so, you're going to be buying those at around $12 each... pad longevity varies based on useage and chemical from what I've found. It's not a one time use thing though... I typically get several (3 - 5 uses out of a pad before it's retired... sometimes more than that.

Pure wax on pure wax on pure wax in and of itself doesn't remove swirls. You can conceal them with this method but, you're not going to 'remove' them this way. To remove, you must use an abrasive polish (hence, #80).
Several applications of a cleaner wax may remove some of your problem but, I'd stick with plan "A" with the #80.

Also, wax on wax on wax is a problem. There's only so much wax you can put on a surface before it starts shedding (law of diminishing returns)... in short, you apply two coats, then a third... then a fourth... the third coat is, most likely, removing some of the second... the fourth coat is removing some of the second, and third coats... Two coats is to ensure uniform coverage... not much more than that.

Layerability is something that has been debated til everyone quit caring. Everyone has their own opinion... mine is that it can be done slightly...especially with 'pure' products... the people that think 6 coats of wax X is better than 2 coats are pushing the envelope IMO.

RP

 

Do you have to push hard when applying the #80 or wax? Or just moderate pressure, like when washing off the truck with the wash mit?

Just trying to think how I created all those swirls with the 3 step meguiars proccess. A little wax shy now.

I think I'll just go to the autoparts store and buy some #80, a good carnuba wax, and some foam application pads to put the stuff on. I already have the specials towels to remove it. I'll try it this time by hand and see if I want to buy the porter cable next month and cut down on time and work then.

Then it'll be wash.
Dry
#80 apply
let sit for 20 minutes
towel off
carnuba wax
let sit for 20 minutes
towel off
NXT Tech wax
let sit for 20 minutes
towel off
NXT Tech wax
let sit for 20 minutes
towel off
Take pictures and brag on F150online.com

How does that sound? Still missing anything?

 

Negative...

More to come.

 

gosh darn it. Sounds like I'm not even close. hmm, well I do know that some form of wax goes on the truck, on the black parts....so maybe I'm not a complete idiot right now. (exaggerating the fact that I feel like a moron)

Sorry RP I should have learned more than this by now. I appreciate any help you provide. Thanks!

Duke

 

You're close... very close.

1. Wash
2. Dry (use blot method)
3. Clay (if needed)
4. #80 (no need for a 20 minute wait unless it takes you that long to polish off a 'can' of your favorite beverage. In fact, you can remove immediately before it dries. This type of polish doesn't need to 'dry' to your paint to do it's job as the abrasive qualities are doing the work; not something drying on your paint. The product drying won't hurt your paint but, if you allow it to dry, ENSURE that it's ULTRA-THIN and not thick! #80 can be a bear to remove if applied thick.
5. NXT -- allow to dry to paint. Dry times will vary based on humidity and other environmental conditions.
6. NXT -- repeat as #5.
7. ALLOW 12 - 24 HOURS FOR NXT CURE TIME - Very important. Cure times are common with synthetic products like NXT.
8. Once that time has lapsed, apply one coat of canauba (I prefer Meg's #26 or #16 (discond)).


You mentioned your towels... I'm assuming what you have is ULTRA-TOP-Quality? This is a place where problems can easily be introduced. I highly recommend the DF Concours towel as it's the softest, best built, towel I've ever used. Several here swear by this towel. Be sure to rotate the towel often to avoid loading on areas. Further, have a few ready to roll as you're going to want to utilze dedicated towels for each product used.

-RP-

 

Hey RP,

AWESOME!!! Thanks for the breakdown! How do I know if I need to quick clay? It hasn't been done on this truck yet and I've had it since May, so I thought it could help. I'm going to head out to the parents place when the stuff comes in and practice on the Moms van. How quickly does a bottle quick clay last? Maybe I should order two if I'm going to do the truck and and the van.

The towels I have are 2 meguiars Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels and one big blue mircofiber towel that I bought at target. Maybe I should order three DF concourse towels too then? Does autodetailingsolutions.com sell them?

Thanks again,

Duke

 

Hard to tell without 'feeling' your paint but, odds are, you might need clay. To test this theory out, try rubbing your clean, dry hand across your hood or roof very lightly. Is it slightly rough to the touch? It should feel like glass.

Research clay here, at autopia.org, meguiarsonline.com or detailcity.com... there's copius amounts of information out there.

As for ordering the clay... it doesn't come in bottles; it's literally a little 'brick' of clay. Follow the instructions explictly. One 'kit' will get you through a couple of details pending you're not in awful shape and you don't drop it on the ground (because if it hits the ground, it's trashed...no exceptions).

The Supreme Shine MF towels are pretty good in my opinion. I own several and have used them to remove products. As for the blue Target towel, not sure; I haven't toyed much with their new detailing section. ADS won't sell the DF Towel but, at last check, premiumautocare.com did... also, you can order direct from them at dftowel.com.

RP

 

Good deal! So now I know what I need to order. Yeah I saw the quick clay box from meguiars and thought it was a box. The paint on the roof does feel slightly rought to the touch. Within the next two weeks I'll have the meg porter cable and other wax/polishers here. I'll order sometime next week and then to the detail on the entire truck, mirrors and hard cover too.

So far I need to order:

Meguiars Porter Cable - $149.99
#80 - 32 oz bottle - $13.99
#26 - 16 oz bottle - $10.99
Meguiars Quick Clay - $9.99
6 pack of pads - 3 yellow polishing pads (for use with #80) and 3 beige finishing pads (for use with NXT and #26) - $49.95

How does that sound for money well spent? I already have stuff to wash and dry. Got those nice meguiars water magnets for $2 a piece at target two weeks ago!!!! Also have two buckets for washing.

Then it'll last for a day and probably snow the next morning....

EDIT:

I just saw the #2 promotion package and it looks to have everything minus the #26 so I'll just order the #2 package and #26. Only difference being I get more NXT wax, instead of quick clay it's a little different stuff, 3 mirofiber towels (I wonder how good they are?) and three less pads (probably don't need 6 pads anyhow). I'll being doing the van and my dads car first for practice then I'll do the truck.

 

Yesterday, I washed my truck with Dawn, then followed with a regular wash car soultion (Maguries Deep Crystal).

After It dried, I applied 2 coats of NXT. After removing those, I cleaned the plastic bedrails, mirrors and side steps and splash guards.

WOke up today and put on two coats of #26 carnuba wax and finished up windows. Dressed the tires and cleaned the wheels..

It is certainly shining! Looks better now than when I bought it new.

I got scared away from claying the truck, but after CLOSE inspection, I feel like I need to clay the hood and roof.... both surfaces feel slightly rough.

Wish I had a camera.. Thanks to all who helped!!

 

Glad it worked out!

Clay is kind of a scary thing the first time... if you want, one of these times when I'm back down there, I'd be happy to swing by and show you how to use it safely... up to you.

RP

 

Sounds great Rock!

Thanks for all your help!