I saw this at autozone for $49.95 and thought about getting one. I'd still have to get the backing plate but wanted to know if anyone has used one or knows anything about this and would it be good to use the #9, #80 and polish/wax with??



http://www.properautocare.com/veprcipo1.html


Are there other places that I can get a 6 inch or 7 inch Hook and Loop Backing Plate besides on-line??

 

This is a ROTARY BUFFER.

While it is a good tool for the serious detailer, it is a MUCH more powerful tool that can cause extreme damage if not utilized properly.

Further, I take GREAT exception with their statements about this tool...

Speaking about the PC 7424, Properautocare says:

It can make these paint defects less noticeable but it can't remove them.

Odd, I seem to recall utilizing a PC to remove OODLES AND OODLES Of surficial paint problems and recall seeing OODLES AND OODLES of folks here talk of removing similar problems with the same machine. No cover-ups at all... Simply put, this is poor of them to post on their site.

Also, I find it pecuilar that they say this about the PC 7424 that they sell on their site:

I started with this dual-action, Porter Cable 7424 because I was inexperienced in using a polisher and did not want to harm my car's finish. It was the best car-care investment I ever made. I was able to achieve better results in 20 to 30 minutes of machine polishing than I could in months of hand polishing. If you're serious about keeping your car's finish vibrant and swirl-free, I strongly recommend investing in a machine polisher.


Somewhat contradictary isn't it? Maybe he's referring specifially to the machine (with no polish or wax) in earlier statements but, no one actually just uses the machine without a polish or wax on the pad at last check (or at least they shouldn't).

While I don't know the brand, I have seen similar 'VECTOR' branded products at Wallyworld (specifically, an orbital) that looked like it really lacked on the 'quality' side.

I own a Makita rotary and use it often on clients' vehicles. I honestly think that, if I were starting out and was a serious 'home' user or serious enthusiast that I'd stick with the PC. For a little more money, you get a very nice kit with a lifetime warranty on the PC from autodetailingsolutions.com. I may note that I've never had the need (or anywhere near it for that case) to utilze a rotary on my new truck. This tool is really used for heavier problem removal and, in my honest opinion as a guy who has handled a rotary and a PC, it should only be utilized 1) on really has some problems and 2) by a person who has had a chance to tinker with the machine for a while on a vehicle that you really couldn't hurt (I bought two old hoods to teach myself how to burn paint and how to remove big problems). If you go with that machine, I'd recommend teaching yourself or learning from someone who knows a rotary well prior to going after anything that you own and/or want to maintain.

My take: Pass on this one and save another few bills and get the G-100 (Meguiar's PC) package at ADS!

RP

 

RP,

I'm definitely not looking to trash my paint job. I'll take your great advice and go with a PC from autodetailingsolutions.com. I did pick up some #9 since I could find any #80 and will be doing my truck by hand this weekend. Is there a different or specific method when doing this by hand than with pc?? I expect this is a very long ordeal.

Thanks,

 

I'm not telling you not to get it... not by a long shot but, if it were me, I'd stick with the PC as it's a VERY handy tool that can remove swirls and can remove other types of surfical problems. Honestly, for a rotary, that's not a bad deal but, that quality thing keeps playing in my mind based on my observations about the 'Vector' machines I've seen at Pep and Wally.

As for #9 and #80... they're similar products with #80 having a bit more of a cut along with a much oilier consistancey. #80 is almost always one of those products that you'll have to buy at a paint and body shop supply house or a detailing supply house (or online). I've never seen it on the shelf at a 'mega-store'.

#9, by hand, is going to be a work out. While I think you'll love the results, you may want to go start now and do a few panels under the lights. #9 is a product that should be 'worked' until it is almost dry. (never work any product while dry). Once you get to a 'gummy' consistency with the product, stop and wipe. Assess. If it needs another hit, go for it and repeat.

Advice: If you're not up for doing your entire truck this weekend, only do the side panels (doors, box, gate, fenders) and then do the hood, roof, tonneau next weekend. Your arms might thank you for it.

A bit of good news, I find #9 to be one of the easiest 'swirl removing' products on the market to work by hand. While this isn't saying a bunch as they're all a beast by hand, it must account for something eh? LOL!

Best of luck and PLEASE don't forget to take some before and after shots! It's been a while since I've seen a truck done top to bottom with #9. I really like the product and probably don't use it as often as it could be used.

RP