The best look will be obtained with a DA polisher. The PC or I use a Cyclo 90% of the time. By hand it can be done, but will be a full day's event to get it done. 120.00 for a PC and 45.00 in some Lake Country pads is a great investment, even if you only do the cars 3 times a year.
If you want to stick with Meguiars products, I have had the best luck with :
1. Wash in Dawn
1.1. or overdose of car soap if you have an adversion to Dawn on your truck.
2. Clay the entire paint
3. #9 by area if you need it.
4. #81 Polish the entire paint with a light cut pad ( white Lake Country pad, or I think Meguiars has a version also ).
5. #7 Glaze the entire paint with a light cut pad ( different one then the one used in Step #4 ).
6. #26 the entire paint with a finishing pad ( grey Lake Country Pad, or again I think Meguiars has a similar ).

The other thing that I have been using as of late is #51 in place of #34. It is a huge difference. I now only use my #34 for clay lubricant. This is the spray instant detailer, for between wax jobs. RP turned me onto #51, and I just bought a case of it a few weeks back.

There are other mfgr's that you can use as well, I did some side by sides in another thread on NXT product comparisons, but I stuck with Meguiars, as it seems the ol' man might prefer these.

Good luck with the other options you get.

 

I think that SSCULLY beat me to it. His procedure is definately a 'tried and true' sequence of steps that I know will yeild excellent results on your vehicle.

I might recommend going with a solid car wash shampoo like Meguiar's Gold Class or NXT Wash over Dawn as the polishing step (the #81) will safely and effectively remove any remaining wax/polish already on your trucks paint with no problem. Also, by going with the #83, you can not worry about the #9.

Also, if you do elect to maybe get a Porter Cable (PC) (model 7424) , it might be worth your while to substitue the #81 for #83 Dual-Action Cleaner Polish (DACP). It's a tad more agressive and I think it'd be more effective at removing 3+ years of oxidation/spider-webbing/swirls.

So, in conjunction with what SSCULLY has already written, my suggested form of attack would be:

1. Wash with a quality car wash shampoo like Gold Class or NXT Wash.

2. Clay. You can utilize a mix of car shampoo or a product like Meguiar's Final Inspection or Quick Detail as a lubricant for your clay.

3. Polish. Utilize a product like Meguiar's #83 Dual-Action Cleaner Polish on a PC or a product like Meguiar's #81 Hand Polish to work out the swirl marks, scuffs, and other minor surface imperfections. Like SSCULLY mentioned, a machine will do a MUCH better job on this step but, either product can be utilized by hand... be sure to have a cooler of water handy if you're going with the elbow grease option as it *WILL* be a long day. My personal pad selection would be a Meguiar's Softbuff Yellow (#W-8006) polishing pad.

4. Glaze. #7 Professional Show Car Glaze. In my opinion, you might be able to skip this step but, doing it certainly won't be a waste of time. The only worry that I have is that #7 is a slightly more difficult product to remove so, make sure you apply in ULTRA-THIN coats. Pad = Meguiar's W-9006 Finishing Pad.

5. Protect. Tired yet? I'd start with a single coat of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax and then top that off with a coat of #26 Hi-Tech Carnauba. Pad = Different W-9006 Finishing Pad (aka: not the same one you used in step 4). Some don't care for NXT but, as a general rule, the majority LOVE it. So far, I haven't found a product that I like better for the protection that I need. The #26 on top of it gives it a deep, rich luster IMO.

SSCULLY mentions a product called #51; you may recognize this product as Final Detail (FD) after reading a bunch of positive things about it on here. Unfortunately, FD is a product that is being discontinued and being replaced with another product called Last Touch Detailer (D-155). This product isn't on the shelf as of yet so, either FD or LT will be a great choice for your clay lube and/or as a final detailing spray to utilize to remove dust, smudges, and similar items.

Please ask questions if you have them as I'm sure we've tossed enough data at you to make your head spin... Mind you, you won't have to use this 'full-detail' system each and every time that you wax but, it will be necessary a couple of times per year (at a minimum) in order to get the type of shine that you see on a bunch of vehicles within this forum.

RP

 

Whew guys!! I'm tired already!! Thank you so much for the write-ups SSCULLY & RockPick, you've been a great help. I do have a question though. Don't laugh now, remember I am a female...What is a Porter Cable? My husband has an electric polisher will that do the same thing?

Anyone want to come see Alaska? Free room and board if you'll do all that to my truck!!



......Hehehe J/K

 

No problem, the Porter Cable is a dual action polish / sander ( depending on what you stil on the face of it ). If your husband already has a polisher, then it would work.
One thing, it is a dual action ( DA) polisher, not a buffer. I also have a Sears 11" industrial buffer for removing product. Trying to apply product with one of these is a waste of time. The buffer while it is a DA motion, does not have the OPM ( oscillations per min ) to do any good with polish. It is a very low OPM and if you try to put product on with it, will not turn out so well.
The other item it might be is a rotary action polisher, which you would not want to be applying glaze or wax with ( in my mind ). This is usage specific on paint, not general application of product.
I did forget to include something in my write up on the oxidation, I have had great luck with the Lake Country Orange pad or the Orange power pad from properautocare.com. Using this with #81 will produce some great results. This is a different pad then the white lake country pad or the Meguiars pad, and would allow you to use a bit less aggressive polish ( #81 instead of #83 ) to remove oxidation. I had to wet sand a run in the clear coat of a fiberglass cap, and prior to getting the rotary polisher out, I tired the Orange pad on a PC, and it removed all the wet sand marks. The new generation of the Orange pads are nothing short of amazing, with almost being fool proof for damage.
Sorry no longer cover AK, under the last territory split. That is now in the new west region, so I almost could have done that

Good luck, let us know what other questions you have.