303 works great on interiors. As a matter of fact, it's become all I use on the interior (door panels, dash, etc) of my truck. Simply wipe it on (I put it on a little heavy), let it sit for a little while, and then buff off the excess. This process leaves the surface with a satin (OEM like) finish that is not greasy at all. It also seems to prevent the static stick issue you get with other products. I really sold on the stuff.

-Mike-

 

Haven't used 303 on interior plastic (I'll usually just wipe it down with a wet microfiber towel, dry, and leave as is). However, I do use it on my Lariat leather front seats and the rear bench (extended cab) after cleaning them with a leather/vinyl cleaner (Pinnacle brand) [I'll only do that combination once or twice a year, since it doesn't get heavy use and is not in the sun for much of the day). I'll apply the 303, then wipe off the excess. At least on the leather, you don't slide around after that and it's not greasy.

ernie

 

It's funny you bring up the issue of the use of 303 on leather. Like I said before, I use 303 on almost everything trim related (both interior and exterior), except leather items. The leather seats in my wife's SUV only get Lexol products used on them to both clean and protect them. Not saying that 303 wouldn't be fine on leather, I just found it ironic that leather seats are about the only thing I don't use 303 on.

-Mike-

 

Hi Mike:

You know, I went around and around with that, 303 and a cleaner vs. the Lexol products. Bought 'em both. My concern for the leather in the Lariat was the clear coat they use on the leather. I had done some searching, and it seemed that some folks on some of the detailing sites had concerns about the oils in the lexol conditioner and their longer-term effect on the clear coat......however, others seemed not to have this concern. Not willing to do the experiment, I opted for the 303/cleaner combo. The Lexol gets put to good use on other leather around the house :-)

ernie

 

BigDeal,

I sent you an email requesting some info on how you did your moldings. Did you get it?

 

Interesting....... What detailing website(s) did you find this info on? I've never come across the issue before on the couple detailing sites I visit. At any rate, I use the Lexol stuff on the seats in my wife's Durango (the seats in my SuperCrew are cloth), and they don't have the clearcoat on them like the Ford seats do. As such, I really can't offer any useful feedback on that issue.

-Mike-

 

Sorry, I did not. Just got done checkin' email and nothing. At any rate, here's what you need.

Head to your favorite Ford or Lincoln dealer (or better yet, online parts retailer) and order one set of front, and one set of rear, lower window moldings for a 2001 Lincoln Blackwood. They're a direct replacement for the F150 SuperCrew moldings. They'll probalby run you around $150 bucks for the two sets. Do yourself a favor, they're easy to install, so you can do it yourself and save the gouging you'd get at the Ford service department or body shop. At current, it's a somewhat rare mod (haven't seen it on many other trucks), but I really think it improved the looks of my truck. If you get real serious about getting a set for your truck, email me and I'll send you the part #'s you'll need along with some install tips.

-Mike-

 

black shoe polish a kid dos it to his VW at work it looks good

 

Big Deal,

Can you tell me what's involved with the molding replacement? Is this an adhesive molding or is it a pull the panel type install? Thanks in advance.

 

No adhesive and no panel removal required. The moldings are what I'd refer to as a pinch fit. You simply release a small clip on each molding strip near the door jam, and lift up. The molding will simply come off in your hands. To install the new molding, you carefully line it up where it needs to go and push it down onto the door. You have to push gently on the Blackwood moldings though so as not to dent the metal strip in them.

It's really that easy. Took me all of 20 minutes to install all four. There are a couple tricks I'll pass your way if you buy a set for your truck.

Let me know.

-Mike-

 

I'll order a set via FordPartsOnline.com tomorrow. I spend hours making this truck shine and I'm tired of trying to make these things look uniform/decent. I've tried a ton of different kinds of trim cleaners/rejuvenators/conditioners (Black Magic, Mequirs, Zymol, ArmorAll, EagleOne just to name a few), including shoe polish and markers. I've got one "dry" spot on the drivers door that I can't make look good. I think it's where I grab the door when I close it. Any additional install tips other than whay you have already given would be appreciated. Thanks.

Just checked your estimate is spot on, just about $150.

 

I'm pretty sure those moldings are more than $150... I thought I remembered someone (probably dufunnel) saying that the front ones were around $150 and the rears were almost $200

 

No, I paid approximately $40 for the fronts and $150 for the rears (go figure?), and have since found that I could have gotten them cheaper had I shopped a little more. Oh well. I still love the look.

-Mike-

 

I use Mothers Back-to-Black on my trim, last for months and doesn't run down the paint. It also works on different colors.

 

Hello Mike, I’m curious about that fix for the window trim. What are the part #s for the lower window moldings for the 2001 Lincoln Blackwood? It looks really good. Thank you for the detail on how to do it. I’d like to know about the tricks involved - I’m a complete novice on body work /trim.
Thanks, ~ Brian