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PRND21 pointer fix

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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 03:45 PM
  #61  
f150fella08's Avatar
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From: Pittsburg, Texas
i tried this in my truck and it didnt work....i turned the black **** all the way and it didnt fix it
 
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:46 PM
  #62  
ScrewedUPF150's Avatar
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From: TX
Will try the zip tie fix 2morrow. Mine has been broken for a couple of years now and this seems to be a fix for it. Hope it works because I thought of buying another one but did not want to go through the trouble and it break on me again.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 02:30 PM
  #63  
ScrewedUPF150's Avatar
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From: TX
Pointer is on the D when in drive but off everywhere else but better than it was before.:o
 
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #64  
chiaronate's Avatar
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From: Schenectady, NY
Originally Posted by ScrewedUPF150
Pointer is on the D when in drive but off everywhere else but better than it was before.:o
Yeah it won't be "spot on" in all gears, the F-150 isn't made by Rolls-Royce lol. I was having an issue with having problems putting the key switch in the off position, so I got under the transmission and adjusted the linkage to fix that..what I didn't know is I could adjust the gear selector indicator with that **** under the steering column..good stuff. This website is a valuable source of information, I'm glad it's here.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #65  
BigTruckGuy's Avatar
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From: Shawnee, OK
i just did this. not much trouble findin it and a 15 sec fix.
Thanks alot man. It was buggin me.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 03:48 PM
  #66  
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From: DFW
glad you got it fixed
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:16 PM
  #67  
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From: Iowa
Thanks so much for taking the time to get the video and pics for us! I'll try this.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 04:34 AM
  #68  
BigTruckGuy's Avatar
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From: Shawnee, OK
haha so i fixed this pro in my dads and bros f250 and f350 and bros f350 went into shop for something and his truck is really tricky to get into gear so the dealer had alot of trouble and called bro and asked and he said to just m=play with it til u get it. i gess he finally got it but when bro got it back calls me and says the pointer is way off again so i go look again and the orange pointer had snapped in half about 3 inches up from the spin ****...
stupid sob dealers...

any suggestions besides replacement?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 01:11 PM
  #69  
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Thanks for your help fellas! Oh i forgot to mention...that the exhaust system when i bought this truck was cut off right under the front seats. No muffler...cats are full of holes and when i scanned it all o2 sensors were bad? All of them cant be. But no back pressure. Runs like ****...So i am thinking once all that is done and fixed...maybe it will clean up some of the trans codes?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 01:00 PM
  #70  
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From: Shawnee, OK
Pat any ideas on my prob in the previous post??
 
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 09:44 PM
  #71  
ExTex's Avatar
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From: Greensboro, NC
Had this problem when I bought my '99 - found the adjuster, but the white plastic bracket was broken. I managed to put a tie-wrap around the adjuster so it would stay in place and let me make the adjustment. It's worked fine ever since!
 
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #72  
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the tabs were broke on mine, took a small circlip, pulled down on it until it read correct, slipped on clip, fixed.
willys5555, it is not on the shifter cable, it is a smaller sererate cable, under the steering column.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 11:44 PM
  #73  
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From: New Port Richey, Florida
I did the cable and the tube on a buddies truck and mine is waiting to be done, I have the parts but I am waiting on all the parts for a "Shopping List" of things. On mine, the column is so bad that the truck doesn't know it is in park, I have one of those edge things and it registers in 4th gear when I put it in park (unless it thinks it is in reverse).
 
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Old Sep 26, 2021 | 12:09 PM
  #74  
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Update to this problem. Mine, like most others experienced, has had this problem for about a year now and I finally decided to fix it. First, I found a good video by ChrisFix.

I also had a sloppy shifter problem and that turns out to be that the plastic bushings (2) on the shifter tube are shot. A different tech has produced an excellent step-by-step video of the process.

I found out the '99 F150 is quite different under there (he performs the task on an '99 Expedition), starting with the dash lower panel, but you just need to find different fasteners. Clue one is that there is a steel support that is attached to the plastic panel and you do have to remove to (2) 8mm bolts to release the whole thing. The rest are just screws for the hood release, ebrake release & only couple others for the panel to dash supports themselves. There is also a tubular stiffener that should be removed to goes right over the (4) bolts that support the tube assembly so that you can lower the whole steering wheel / shifter tube assembly to replace the bushings.

I ordered a new adjuster wheel bracket from Amazon ( http://amzn.to/1QC7qol ) $8.77 because I needed to order the bushings anyway ( http://amzn.to/2zaBOBC ) $5.07 as I could see that was going to be a much more difficult part to come up with some type of alternate. I also needed some Loctite Blue as mine was pretty old and kinda stiff and this will save a trip to AutoZone or similar.

Both of these guys addressed the propensity of the (2) bolts on the bracket for the linkage to get loose. ChrisFix deals with this problem in a separate video (
). Once you remove the lower panel and the tubular stiffener to the shifter tube, taking care of all three is very easy to do. I know that this may sound confusing but once you view those three videos, you will see that if you follow those procedures, it is really fairly simple. I cannot imagine trying to fix the adjuster wheel without removing the lower dash panel as I am rather tall, meaning I also have long arms, and I have real problems doing anything under a dash and I am not good at contortion anymore. IIRC, there is also wheel bracket available (at Amazon) - made form metal. I figured mine last around 20 years, and Dorman usually makes pretty good stuff, so I just ordered to plastic one.

I understand that this set of fixes are prevalent on many Ford or Mazda products and the real difference is removing that lower dash panel - but that it fairly straight forward. Oh yeah, the tubular stiffener for the shifter tube is different from what is shown on the video, but that is no big deal either.

These two YT'ers do an excellent job of producing their videos, with proper lighting and good cam and do an excellent explanation of the procedures.

 
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