Back at it, I knocked out the four driver's side plugs in no time last night with no breaks. Did it on a cold engine with no carb cleaner, since I did the opposite last weekend and broke 2/3. The hardest to reach plug behind the module is either stripped or something is preventing my socket from grabbing it well, I think stripped. Any ideas or suggestions?

 

i would think something is preventing it from grabbing well.

i wish i had thought to read up on any potential issues before trying to change mine. i broke 3 of the 4 on the drivers side before i stopped to look on the internet for known issues.. i got the other side out only breaking 1. that lisle tool is freaking awesome. as i was working the last plug out, i thought to myself, i should have just broke them all and used the lisle tool.. 45 minutes to not break it.. 15 to break it and use the lisle tool.. *shakes his head sadly*..

 

I started today. 5 came out no problem. 2 broke and the same behind the computer is not coming out it seems tlike it reached the end then in kinda jumps and doesn't come out...wtf

the 2 that broke left behind the top little piece of the plug . Will that screw the pistons on both those cylinders? Should I take the heads off?

 

Broken plug stories are unbelievable. I got a look at this problem early on and decided then to change my plugs out every 20K miles. My 2004 plugs have never looked as bad as some shown here. This weekend I did a change out at 60K on a cold engine, no soaking either. Not a problem. I always put anti-seize on the "threads" not the tip cylinder. I can do the driver side in about 20 minutes and after moving the "brain" and bracket out of the way the pass side is about the same. I carry a couple of spare plugs and a Leslie tool just in case. Proactive or lucky, I don't know. But this works for me.

 

Do NOT put anti-seize on the thread section (will mess up the torque) ONLY put nickle anti-seize on the shank section (below the threads)..

 

A few posts back I noted I installed the Champions then had to replace them with Autolites. A Photo of 1 of the Champions is attached. It was in a cylinder that had NO issues from removal of the original plug. Photo shows plug after 40 miles in service!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If photo STILL won't post. Please see:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...7989small.html

 

Just got done. Pulled passengerside head with motor in the truck in my garage. Left the header connected. Changed all gaskets and cleaned everything and removed broken plugs. Put the Champion plugs back in and also found I had a chain guide tha was broken. Replaced it and replaced the tensioner because the chain looked loose and the tensioner was sticking. Truck runs good except I have a loud noise only under load around 50mph, I let off the gas and it goes away and doesn't come back for a while. Anyway, it sounds like the chain rubbing on the new guide of the cover itself. Should I have replaced the chain too? DO they stretch that much? Truck has 153,XXX miles.

 

I want to thanks for this informative post. As an engineer I couldnt believe the Ford dealer telling me that it could cost as much as $7000.00 to replace spark plugs. That is if they break and have to change the head. Shame on Ford for developing an engine like this. Anyhow I will be following this to the letter and will let you know the outcome, once it gets a little warmer.

Thanks alot.

 

Same here I had a 69 GTO when I was 17 and kept it 9 years,and yes should have kept it also!!

 

I'm trying to understand the problem here, the seizing is between the theads on the old plugs and the engine block so isn't this the place to put anti-seize compound??

As for the torque yes maybe the paste will modify the feel but your judgement is also good.

 

Motorcraft plugs are nickle coated so they do not require antisieze and if you put antisieze on the threads, it can affect the torque values for those trying to torque them to exact specs. The nickle antisieze that is recommended for the 2004-early 2008 5.4 3v is to go on the long shank that is below the threads. Ford has found that this will keep the carbon from building up on the shank. The carbon build up causes the plugs to separate as they are pulled thru the head on removal.

 

You are right I just read the TSB from Ford anf they state the same as you said.

Thanks

 

Thanks to all who have posted how to's and their experiences on this situation. I was able to remove 6 of my plugs without issue. Number 1 and number 6 plugs were not successful. They both remained in the head with the threaded sleeve portion of the plugs coming out (see pic below). I have ordered the Lisle tool and my question is will this tool remove the plugs as they are or what needs to be done in order to remove them? Thanks again for all the input received here.

 

The Lisle tool will work. You're going to have to break off the top of the porcelain with a deep well socket on an extension. Then pull the piece out. I did this on one plug on my Navigator. A couple others broke flush.
Take a look at the Lisle Instructions. It is pretty straightforward. http://www.lislecorp.com/uploads/ins...432F0D070A.pdf Post here if you have any questions. Plenty of people are willing to help. I had NO luck with the Champions. Ran **** poor and 1 failed almost immediately. I used Autolites.

 

Thanks for the reply. My Lisle tool arrived today and I did a little bench testing with it and one of the plugs that did come out. It does seem straightforward after doing this and checking out the instructions. I'm going to pull the two still stuck this weekend. I had read that the Champions didn't perform well. That's to bad, their design was a good idea. I took a chance and bought the Motorcrafts. Hopefully they are constructed a lot better than the originals!