Originally Posted by Raptor05121

This thread is to be used purely for informational (and in some cases, entertainment) puposes only. F150OL, IB, nor myself takes any responsibility for information posted in this thread. All information was researched and written by me. Photo credits are at the bottom.

Please be smart and disconnect your battery before attempting any electrical work on your vehicle.
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This guide was created to help everyone should you have any questions when it comes to main lighting on your Ford F-150. It covers years 1997-Present, and some exclusionary models.

First off, lets start with some basics. This following image is a up-to-date and correct guide that lists the bulb used in the headlamp and fog lamp for all F-150s. These are OEM reference numbers used for replacement only. This does not apply to non-OEM or aftermarket headlights.



Now, I will begin a review over each and every bulb that the F-150 can utilize. This includes the OEM specs (see picture above) and possible swaps to higher power bulbs.:

H-series:

H1- A medium sized bulb primarily used for auxiliary/fog/driving lamps, can also be used in some headlight lamps. Emits 1550 lumens of light @ 55W and uses a P14.5s base.



H3- A small, 55W bulb primarily used in auxiliary/fog/driving lamps, can also be used in some headlight lamps. Emits 1450 lumens of light, but utilizes a transverse-type filament. PK22s base, with pigtail for power.



H13- The H13 (incorrectly called "9008" by Ford) is a dual-filament bulb designed to replace the 9007 bulb. Its off-center low-beam filament burns at 55W and releases 1100 lumens of light. The focal center houses the high-beam filament which burns at 65W and 1700 lumens of light. Both are axial filaments and utilizes the P26t base.



9000-series:

9007- The 9007 (HB5) bulb, introduced in 1992, uses 12 Volts, has a 55 Watt low beam filament producing 1000 lumens, and a 65 watt high beam filament producing 1350 lumens. Popular design used by larger single-bulb headlights. Utilizes an axial filament, with a PX29t base.



9006- The 9006 (HB4) bulb is a single-filament bulb used in split-beam headlight designs as a low beam bulb. It puts out 55W @ 12.8vDC and 1000 lumens of light. Perfect for small or cramped housings. 90-degree P22d base with axial filament.



9005- The 9005 (HB3) bulb is a single-filament bulb used as a high beam bulb in a split-beam headlamp. It puts out 65W @ 12.8vDC and 1700 lumens of light. Perfect for small or cramped housings. 90-degree P20d base with an axial filament.



9100-series:

9140- The 9140 (H10) bulb is a small, single-filament bulb uses primarily for fog or auxiliary lighting purposes. Emits 40W of power at 900 lumens, exceptional use for low-power, low-heat spaces. 90-degree PY20d base.



9145- The 9145 (H10) bulb is a more powerful version of the small 9140 bulb. Acceptable heat output for small spaces. 45W of power at 1100 lumens. 90-degree PY20d base.



9155- The 9155 (H10) bulb is the most powerful in the 9100-series family. Output of 55W and 1350 lumens of light. Highest heat potential, not recommended for small or plastic fog lamps. 90-degree PY20d base.


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Now that you have a handle on what is what, lets look at a very popular aspect of swaps. I have already covered information on the halogen to HID headlight swap >>>HERE<<< so I will focus on halogen replacements from here on out.

Keep in mind the bulbs that came with your truck (and listed above) were chosen by Ford for their price, acceptable heat output, and safety. Like most aftermarket products, there is room to do better, with headlights surely included. But be aware that should you venture into the world of aftermarket lights, you risk fire, melting housings, broken glass, toxic fumes, and days of hassle trying to call a customer help center in India if you are not careful and do your research. Hopefully this guide will help you, and again, the author nor F150OL takes part in your activities. You assume risk for all your modifications.

Choosing your bulb

Unless you plan to hunt down every bulb ever made and put them under a scope to get accurate readings, there's many different choices for the "best" bulb. Tip #1 is to avoid crazy advertising. And here's how.

Many companies are doing their best to get your dollar. And you can bet they are willing to lie to do it. Many offer "higher wattage" or a different type of gas filling, and even coat the bulb in pretty colors. But you should be aware, some are fake, and can even hinder light output. As a standard tungsten-filament bulb burns, it emits light around 3500K (yellowish white). And there is a reason for this. Yellow is the exact opposite of black. Same principal as yellow chalk on a blackboard. So at night (and foul weather conditions), yellow is actually the best color for light output. Many bulbs that you can find in an auto parts store usually have some sort of blue glass. This is an amethyst coating applied by the manufacturers. It is part of the marketing gimmick used to trick customers into believing that their light emits a whiter and brighter light. This is true, but also false. If you get the natural color of a tungsten-filament bulb (3500K, slightly yellow) and mix it with the blue coating, you get a white light. Because of the wavelength properties of white versus yellow, you eye readily sees this increase in white light therefore making you believe you are getting more light. But you are not. Blue is the shortest wavelength light, and since the bulb emits so little of it (remember, yellow), the blue coating is acting as a filter. So you get less luminous output, at the expense of more "white" light. Many people believe this is a trade-off, but like we on F150OL here say: "to each his own." Keeping in mind we are talking about the standard bulb (no specific manufacturer yet) there are different styles. And with the truck market, there are many different manufacturers. Some good, some bad. For example, Sylvania Silverstars appear to emit more white light than a standard General Electric bulb, but they use an expensive inert gas and tightly-controlled filament to get a higher output. Therefore the service length declines dramatically. So higher output but with a filter, you get the same luminous output, but a shorter life:

Example:
9007 (low beam) Bulb comparison

GE Nighthawk: 1350 lumens @ 320 hours
Sylvania Silverstar: 1340 lumens @ 250 hours



While I'm not bashing Silverstars (they are the only brand I tend to use, and compared to the other brands carried by my local retailers, they are my preferential choice), I'm just pointing out obvious facts. Let's move on to power.

Many companies (including PIAA) like to advertise that their bulbs can emit up to 85W from a 55W socket. The "55W = 85W" claims are a scam. The blue amethyst coating on the glass tints the light so that it is "whiter". Most bulbs that actually produces more light (i.e., higher-wattage bulbs used for spot lights on tractors) also burn with a whiter color than standard-wattage bulbs. With these color-coated bulbs, only the light color, and not the actual light output, imitates a high-power bulb. The laws of physics are the laws of physics. They don't bend even for the highest-paid advertising agency. There is no way to get "85 watts of light for 55 watts of electricity." So don't fall for that trick. That basically covers the advertising scams. Apart from word of mouth, I would check out several retailers (make sure they have good warranties!) and decide which bulb is best for you. Stylin' Trucks compiled a great guide (>>HERE<<)to different types of popular brands. Keep in mind what I told you. A bulb is a bulb. While some may be a bit different, no one has a superior rating or power output. Decide which is best for your price range and let it rip.

(SPACE RESERVED FOR FUTURE INFORMATION)

Feel free to contact me to include any additional information you think might be relevant.

Originally Posted by Bullet100t

So Raptor05121, you seem to be an authority on these.
I have an 2011 F150 , how about using a 9155 LED in the FOG Lamps will that melt the Lense/Housing?
Thanks
Mark

Originally Posted by thelariat02

I don't think he frequents the forum as much.. It shouldn't melt it but you're gonna lose all of your output. Its going to be all for looks.

Originally Posted by thelariat02

I don't think he frequents the forum as much..

Originally Posted by Raptor05121

Whatsamadda witchu? I'm on here at least 2 hours a day! I'm just very particular about which sub-forums I'm on. I saw this pop up in the recent threads so I thought I'd drop by.
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Originally Posted by Raptor05121

Whatsamadda witchu? I'm on here at least 2 hours a day! I'm just very particular about which sub-forums I'm on. I saw this pop up in the recent threads so I thought I'd drop by.

But yes, LEDs are for looks only. They put out a fraction of your stock bulbs and will not get anywhere near as hot as halogen. The output will be all over the place as your reflector is meant for a spherical light source, not a cylindrical one as LEDs are attached to.