Excellent write up! I have a couple questions though...your measurements were 108mm and 104mm, so the end result (on your truck) that you wanted would have been 106mm at the front and back of the wheel? correct? That would mean the wheel would not be toe in or out, but straight. I always thought a little toe in was correct. I am NO WAY saying I know what I'm talking about...I just wanted to get your 2 cents

 

I gave those numbers as an example, I cant remember what the actual numbers were. Those are likely pretty close though. You are correct though, that if you read 106 at the leading and trailing edge, you would have 0 toe.

As a general rule, I run 0 toe on all my vehicles, except for the Miata. In general, factory specs has a small amount of toe in, because toe in decreases the tendency to "wander" or "tramline" during straight line driving. Obviously, that depends greatly on road conditions, but Ive never found any of my vehicles to need the toe in to drive nicely.

That said, my last few vehicles have been stiffly sprung cars of the sporty variety with stiff sidewall tires. I will likely run the 0 toe alignment for a few weeks and see how it drives and then fine tune from there.

 

Why would I? Their machine is only going to read 0's for toe on the front.



What does having them check it prove? That I can align the car myself? Again, this isnt a "ball park" method. Its accurate to less than 1/32" when done properly.

I trust it every time I take the Miata on the track at triple digit speeds. I honestly dont understand why people still think a vehicle alignment is black magic, its basic geometry.

Taking it to an alignment shop gets you the same results, using the same methodology. The only difference is, most alignment shops use Hunter machines with lasers. Go to any performance shop, and youll see the same basic setup as this with jackstands or a rig like this:


The only real difference is that the latter allows you to roll the car back and forth without using slip plates in order to reset the wheels. You cant move the car once its set up with the jackstands.

 

I got a question or two and I am no expert either!

I read through it a couple of times and did not see it so maybe this is just assumed? When running the fishing line between jack stands would not the line need to be exactly parallel/level to the ground and also cross dead center of the hubs to be accurate? Or does it just need to be close enough?

Also you mentioned the need to roll straight for a few feet onto the tiles. If your alignment is off enough to cause your steering wheel to be off center one way or the other do you drive straight on and then center the steering wheel or do you try to hit the tiles with the steering wheel straight?

 

Guys, I want to keep the How To thread clean of distractions. If you want to continue your "discussion", please use the original thread which I think is in Suspension, or communicate with PMs.

 

Im glad you posted this because ive paid for 2 alignments in less than 2 weeks due to mudding and being stupid. That cost me $140. OUCH

 

How do you do the diy auto repair ? I think you are misunderstanding. It doesn't matter if you have stagger or not. As long as the outer edges of the 'box' (strings) are symmetrical to the centre line.

 

I agree, I have these exact same questions