after removing the caliper and the caliper bracket, then the cotter pin and hub nut

 

Good info. I recently did the swap to Hawks but went I with the LTS pads and Powerslot rotors. I like them, they grab well especially after a little bit of heat gets in them and they dont dust nearly as much as the stock pads.

Now I'm just thinking out loud here... now what if you were to turn the clamp around 180* so that instead of the "screw" being on the pad it was the "C"? Could you then place it in the middle?
*I don"t claim expertise here* but I have always been told that when doing brakes on ABS vehicles it is preferable to crack the bleeder open when pushing the pistons back to prevent damaging the valve or sending contaminants back through it.

 

I believe this is true for 2WD models, 4x4 models are as previously stated; undo the caliper and bracket, then the rotor will slide off. The rear is the same, just release the E-brake.

 

So it's pretty straight forward changing rotors as well as brakes? I've done numerous brake jobs on other vehicles, but I usually get to the "rotor off" point of the job and have to figure out how the rotor is stuck in place in that particular vehicle. With the rear rotors being a combination brake, is there any special instructions for getting it off?

I'll be needing 3 different sets of pads/shoes for a complete brake job, right? Pads for front and rear, as well as e-brake shoes for the rear? Is there a preferred brand of brakes that has low dust and will get rid of the squealing?

Thanks!

 

you shouldnt need Ebrake shoes unless you have a ton of miles and you use it to stop the vehicle.

only trick on the rear is making sure the Ebrake isnt engaged and it should come right off.

 

On the 2 wheel drive, to remove the front rotors, all you do is remove the cotter pin and the hub nut. The hub nut requires a 36mm deep socket and is not supposed to be reused. However, I replaced my rotors(due to bearing failure) before you could buy the hub nuts and I have 50,000 miles on them with no problems. Since it has a cotter pin, I don't see it backing off at all.

 

Another note for your how to, the 2007+Fx4's (and possibly others) have springs that attach between the two pads to help pull them off the rotors while your brakes are not engauged. I would snap a picture for you but the truck is already back together. There are holes in the bottom of each pad for it. Be sure to pay close attention to how they are in there before removal (its pretty simple)

Brandon

 

I noticed your leg under the front end.I used to do this all the time till I had a jack stand tip over on some soft ground.I have a car rotot land on my leg just below my knee.Thank god the ground was soft and I could pull my leg out.I got luckyHave one hell of a scar, but did not break my leg.

 

Wow that's crazy. I'll be sure not to leave my leg under there anymore.

 

even then i have seen air tools fail to break loose lugnuts

 

how do you like the hawk pads?

 

I love them.

 

If they are that tight for a good 1/2" Impact to not get off they are WAY TOO TIGHT! Or get a better impact.

 

Great helpful write up. Soon I will be changing my pads out for some Wagner Thermo-Quiets.

 

how different or similar would this process be on a '97-'03 4WD?