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97-03 2WD Front Rotors & Pads [full write up]

Old Oct 11, 2010 | 07:46 PM
  #46  
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From: DFW
yea C clamp works, but is more likely to overtighten and damage the caliper then squeezing them with the large channel locks.

As long as you dont pump the brakes while the calipers are off you shouldnt have anything popping out or anything like that
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 08:38 PM
  #47  
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yeah i just compressed them in until they were flush, that gave enough room to put the new pads in and fit over the rotor
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 08:08 AM
  #48  
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Cool. Thanks for the info. One more question: Is putting grease on the caliper side of the pads recommended? If so, what kind? I'm going with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads.
Thanks,
BOMO
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 08:50 AM
  #49  
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From: DFW
if your pads didnt come with any high heat grease use dielectric grease
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 08:52 AM
  #50  
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Great! Thanks again.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #51  
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Great write up Patrick: I usually use the c-clamp but I put a piece of flat metal or wood plate on the pistons and then use the c-clamp to push them in, this way you cannot exert more force and the pistons even out with the caliper surface. the second thing i would like to point out is to keep an eye on the brake reservoir as brake fluid will be pushed back into the reservoir.

Even an old wirteup but the information is still valid
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:54 PM
  #52  
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good additional thoughts. Thanks msk59!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #53  
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Great write up. Only problem I encountered was that I was unable to get the original dust caps off without deforming them. Had to make an unanticipated trip back to the auto parts store for new ones.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 01:36 AM
  #54  
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Awesome write up. Just did mine but also had to change the front left spindle because the outer bearing seized and burnt.
 
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