Well i went ahead and bought the actuator and the solenoid just in case it happens again. First when i take it off im going to try to clean it and re grease and see how that works and if problem still there then i will replace the actuator

 

Well not really getting anymore help on this thread but I thought I'd atleast keep you guys updated on my situation. I replaced the solenoid and the actuator but I'm still getting that same grinding noise. So this leads me to believe my actual hub has gone bad.

 

Are you getting the grinding noise only while cruising under load (up an incline)? If so you may have a vacuum leak somewhere. When I had this problem it ended up being a bad check valve right next to the IWE solenoid that was bleeding off pressure when I was under load. In my case it was only a $5 fix.

Hope this helps

 

All,
Having the same issue and expect this thread will be very handy. Thanks to you all for having the problem first. lol

Two actuators on order and pdf etched into the brain, I expect I'll get on it this week. Great discussion and great forum. Glad to be a part of it.

 

After replacing the 2 hub bearings, I still had the grinding noise. After reading through all the posts, my problem is finally solved. Here is my story: I lifted each side and found that on 2WD, on the passenger side the half shaft was turning with the wheel and it's not supposed to. I could hear the noise very well at low speed and switching the selector to 4WD completely eliminated the noise. On drive side, while switching from 2WD to 4WD could hear and feel the actuator engaging and disengaging, on the passenger side I could feel the engagement but not the disengagement. At this point, I knew vacuum was working and surely the problem was the actuator. Ordered the actuator though my friends garage and still paid 140$ with its discount; what a rip off for all us Canadian!! Before changing the actuator, we checked vacuum on both side and the gauge showed 17 PSI at both sides. At this point I know the vacuum system works well. We dissasembled the passenger side and change the actuator which was visually out of whack. Re-assembled everything and voilà no more noises!!!

 

Im having trouble deciding wat to do my problem started awhile ago on the drivers side with a noise that sounded like a baseball card in bicyle spokes. I replaced the hub assembly thinking that was the problem. The noise on the drivers side went away now I have a noise on my passenger side like a scraping noise which goes away when I put it in 4X4. After testing the vaccum lines that all tested good. I was about to buy the solenoid on the firewall but after reading this I have no idea wat to buy. I dont have the money to just throw parts at it until its fixed. Can anyone help? Please?

 

Are you certain you have good vacuum at the hub on the passenger side (not at the solenoid but at the hub)? If so, it sounds like the actuator has gone or is going bad. I wouldn't replace the hub assembly; just the actuator. And.. follow the instructions from earlier in this thread as opposed to the Chiltons/Edmonds. It will save a lot of time (i.e. don't remove the halfshaft bolts; just disconnect the steering tie rod for clearance and 'muscle' the shaft out of the knuckle). You'll be good to go in 30-45 minutes.

 

alright thanks a lot.

 

Thank you TN-150 and lowflyer I replace my passenger side actuator no more noise.

 

Ok i've read every post on this and i am still in aw! Ive done my own brakes, pulled a few motors, replaced rear main seals, ect. Im no mechanic by trade but have been working on vehicles since I was 8. I dont own high quality tools and just cant fork out the cash to have the dealer fix my 06. Can this really be done by the average back yard mechanic? It's 15degrees out and my little wood burner keeps the chill off but by no means keeps the shed warm. Can this be done in a day or two for this is my only way to work. I was quoted $568 to repair. the left side. They told my wife that the bearing was also shot. Do I move my hearses outside for a weekend or do i pull my 401k to have repaired.

As a new member i want to thank everyone for all the great knowledge you share. I've read 5hrs worth of info just today that will save me more than one head ache. THANKS EVERYONE

 

Just did mine last night, woke up to no FWD in a snow storm...$106 at ford dealer, also replaced the Vacume switch with up dated hooded one..FYI. I did the complete job in 1.5 hours...after jacking and support,clean the hell out of the back of unit, remove axel nut,upper ball joint, tie rod ball joint, three small bolts from back of actuator,tilt the hub forward and you can remove the drive shaft, replace the unit, and reassemble..they said to purge the vacume lines with a bit of air... MAKE SURE.. you take the line off from the small tank that is in back of the battery..( I removed the battery and box)
Not a bad job..

 

Changing the actuator took about 30-45 minutes in my friend's garage. You have to unbolt the hub bearing so if you have to change it, it's part of the dissasembly anyway. BTW we did not pull the half shaft.

 

Took me an hour in my driveway. Pull the wheel, brake caliper, rotor and unbolt the lower ball joint. Leave the half shaft installed but pull the hub assembly outward and support the half shaft. three bolts for iwe and you can put it back togehter. Big thing is the torque for all the fasteners including the small nut for the end of the half shaft. Make sure they are torqued to spec.

 

Very beneficial thread. Anyone considering a suspension lift should keep the Halfshaft removal and installation document/procedure handy. I know it wasn't included in the Pro Comp 6" installation guide which led to doubt on the reassembly of the IWE(s).

 

Ok, i know this is an old thread but this is exactly what im dealing with so i hope i get an answer.
My right side hub was grinding in 2x4 drive, so i got a diagnostic at a ford dealer and they said i needed to replace the hub because it was completely stripped out. after i did that it was still grinding... so i put it in 4x4 and it works fine. I dont want to ruin another hub so i wont put it back in 2x4 till its fixed. This is happaning with the passanger side hub.
Do i need to go ahead and replace the solenoid on the driver side and also go ahead and replace the actuator on the passanger side??
thanks in advance.