Another thing you can toss into the equation is that during all this testing, you were exercising the IWE in the opposite direction than the normal 2wd disengage. I've been through the IWE and there is high potential for actual lube freezing or thickening to the point things jam up. The more you move them around the better. The grease can get mixed up with condensation/h2o etc. especially while below freezing for a long duration.

Combined with pinched or displaced vacuum lines, there is less suction to work with as well.

Good luck man. I know its cold up there in MI.

 

Just worked on this today.

I started off by replacing the IWE on the drivers side. I took it out, and saw the signs of the grinding on the hub and of course on the IWE. The IWE held vacuum and did not appear damaged in any other respect (which I found disturbing). SO I grabbed the vac gauge and tested the vac at the wheel and it was 0. Tested the passenger side and it was 0, but dropped to -20 for a second, then back to 0.

Checked the vac at the supply to the solenoid and it was solid -20. Checked the directional discriminator and it was working fine. I also tested the output at the solenoid and it was nill. SO I swapped the new one in, tested it again at the output, then again at the wheels with success.

If I had just tested it prior to ordering the parts, I could have got off with a $25 part. Meh I guess it doesn't matter though seeing as how the IWE was noticeably damaged.

 

I found that my passenger side IWE would not expand once the vacuum was off (4Hi and 4 lo). When I pulled the IWE from the passenger side and held it in my hand, I tried to operate it and it's entire range was less that 1/8 of an inch. Apparently the spring inside the actuator was collapsed and I also noticed that there appeared to be some binding debris inside the unit? I am going ahead and replacing both sides as a precaution, however my passenger side is the one that was not working properly. If just one IWE fails, you will not get the front axle to pull on either side.
I am curious as to how much wear the gear on the hub assembly can take before it needs to be replaced? Does anyone have a picture of a new one so we can determine how much factory bevel is on the hub gear itself in a new condition? I will also take a vacuum reading at each wheel on the front to determine what the actual vacuum level is suppose to be. This may prove to be a way of checking for possible leaks as well.
Any pictures of a new hub gear available?

 

Same here!

Had a vac. leak due to the line melting against the exhaust stud due to it coming out of the protecting loom it was in. I Ordered a whole new vacuum harness and at that same point where my slipped out this one is wrapped to prevent such from happening. After replacing it everything works just fine, can get in/out of 4x4 just fine, but do not like the fact that grinding of the gears was done.

[IMG][/IMG]

New one



Also TN-F150, Your links to the PDF's are no longer working?

 

did you have to but both IWE?

 

I have a 2005 4x4 supercrew

Have to those out there that has messed with all this 4x4 vacuum IWE stuff. About 2 years ago i replaced both IWEs for 110$ eachsince i was left stuck with a slipping noise in the front end. Found out the passenger IWE's spring was broke due to moister in the IWE. after replacing everything worked fine. Then had trouble about year later with transfercase motor not engauging cost 100$ to replace everything back working.

Now i noticing what feels like the hubs are locked in at all time and the system is in 2WD. This evening i checked it agaist my dads trucks system (Also 2005 supercrew) and the Vacuum was alot stonger on his system at the IWE. I feel with the lost in fuel mileage that they are not disengauging. I have vacuum at the connection on the passenger side firewall. Is there other areas to look for breaks or leaks that are known of!!????? diagrams or something would be nice anyone has any for this year model.

Going to check more tomorrow when i have better light to trace the lines!!!

 

Sorry to everyone who couldn't get the pdfs from page one. I thought I had that fixed months ago but now it really is.

If you have any issues getting them, just drop me a PM and I'll check on it.

Thanks

TN

 

So all the information in this thread has led me to believe my IWE actuator is bad on the passenger side.

So before i ordered the parts i thought i'd try and tear it all apart to make sure i was able to do it. I got everything apart exact getting the upper A arm to lift up to drop down the brake rotor. Yes i removed the upper ball joint nut and took a hammer and beat the living SH*T out of it to get it to break loose with no success.

Anyone have any advice to getting the arm to break loose out of the ball joint? Or is there possibly another way to get the actuators out?

On another note i believe the drivers side actuator is good but was going to look at it and possible replace it as well to save another headache down the road. The passenger side is bad because the axle shafts doesn't spin when lifted and when spinning the tire when its in neutral. I believe i said this correctly.

I was able to get the tie-rod nut off and separate it from the knuckle.

If needed i have a 2004 FX4 supercab.

TN-F150 definitely appreciate the PDF's you uploaded they are definitely helpful.

Thanks

 

Budjev,
I was able to replace both of mine without dropping the arm. Tie rod end disconnected gave me just enough clearance to wrestle the short shaft out. It was difficult (tight) but not impossible. That said, I do have a 6" lift and that may have helped.

If you don't have the same clearance, perhaps you should stop by your local AutoZone and 'borrow' a ball joint press and seperator fork.

 

Budjev I was going to tell you that it is possible to change them without dropping the upper a arm but looks like u got it.

 

Yeah i do not have a lift on mine...I didn't really try and lift it up enough to get the shaft out without getting the upper arm disconnected.

Maybe i'll give it another shot this weekend...starting to finally snow in Indiana going to need the 4x4.

Thanks for the info

Where did you guys order you actuators from? I can only find them on ebay for $110 each.

 

The second line is just a vent, it is not a vacume line. Only one vacume line to each IWE and the spring engages the IWE.

 

As I mentioned in a early thread, remove the Short shaft and the IWE as a unit. This will give you that extra inch that you need with only the tie rod end off.

Also vaccume is only used to disengage the unit, The default ( engine off, 4-wd select) will place the unit in to closed position.. The solenoid will vent the line when it does not have power...

 

I got mine at little discounted price from ford and they were 110 also.

About changing them the way I did it is. Break down one. Side at a time. But get the front end off the ground so you can easily turn the steering. Then break down everything (brakes, rotor, bearings ). Unbolt the short axle's 8 bolts also take the spindle nut thread back on. And if I rebemeber I might had unbolted the 3 little bolts on the IWE to allow it to slide back. Cant be sure on this it has been could years since i did it. With all this. Unhooked you should be able. To turn the steering wheel one way or the other and . Just enough to inch the axle spindle out the front assembly. Hope this helps. Some

 

Hey Guys, I have an extra IWE that is in good condition "used", that I pulled from my truck. I had bought two, so I replaced it anyway. If someone needs it, let me know? It's doing no good just sitting in my tool box.