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Everything You Wanted To Know About The IWE System....And Then Some!

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #16  
brosenberg69's Avatar
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Vacumm Check Valve

Guys,
Any idea where to find the check valve for the IWE system? Ford will only sell the entire lines and valves as a system. Can't seem to find the right size at the local parts stores.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:42 PM
  #17  
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From: Back Bay NB, Canada
Great article on the vacume system, it has described all issues I am having with my 2005, heading out to check some thing right now. Great Job
 
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 07:42 AM
  #18  
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I have the 2 acuators on the firewall .. I wonder do I have to use those plastic lines or can I use all rubber lines.. If so where do I get plastic vac line I have not seen it at the auto parts stores around here
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:21 AM
  #19  
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From: NE MS
Mine too

Great job on describing the IWE! My '05 reg cab (183,000 mi) just developed the same problem. It sounded like a dragging piece of thin metal banding strap under the left front wheel,(a high pitched grinding,dragging noise). I drove it down the hwy until I could hit the back roads and try a few things. After backing up in 2 wheel drive about 30 ft I shifted into 4 hi and drove about 3 miles,then back to 2 hi. That was enough to make it quit grinding and get me the other 30 mi home.
My friend at work had the same problem with his 05 or 06 Crew Cab not sure which year. The Ford dealer couldn't find his problem either.

***Update*** Went by the dealer and bought the new IWE solenoid that has the cover made into it. 50.00 and took 20 min to replace. FIXED! Great pics of the part at the link below.
Thanks for all the info!!!

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/80...-solenoid.html
 

Last edited by cbfinn_99; Dec 5, 2009 at 01:47 PM. Reason: update
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:56 PM
  #20  
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IWE system

Great write up. I have a '05 crew cab that I am now experiencing this problem. I have a question regarding the disconnection of the intake until I can test the system. Is there any limitation on how fast you can drive or how long you drive around with this line disconnected? I am suppose to go on a trip next week and I will not be able to fix the problem until I return.

Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 10:30 PM
  #21  
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From: Central Illinois
What does IWE stand for?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 12:20 AM
  #22  
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Awesome article, thanks very much. I am having problem with my 04 FX4. I will try these tests and let you guys know what fixes the problem
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 03:10 PM
  #23  
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From: Alabama
The solenoid behind the battery has two bolt/screws, 10mm I think. If you are careful you can replace it without removing the battery.

Check valves should only allow air to pass in one direction...

The easiest line to disconnect (on the 4.6L) for temporary operations, is the line between the solenoid and the intake manifold. There is a check valve in the line near several electrical boxes on the firewall on the passenger side. I unplugged the line there.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 11:05 AM
  #24  
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Iwe

Thanks to everyone's imputs. I replaced the IWE and my 4x4 works like a charm. You all saved me a ton o cash from the dealer.
 

Last edited by yuri419; Jun 4, 2010 at 11:08 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 11:31 PM
  #25  
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From: Hampton S.C.
thanks for the write up it has helped save much time and probably money
 
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 02:39 PM
  #26  
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From: Iowa City
Well...my vacuum box was the last thing I checked and it was in two pieces. I wish I would've started there. Anyone know a price on these?? Also, if I just plug that vacuum line will my truck work fine in 2-wheel drive for a few days until I can get a new box? I tried plugging it and when I took it for a test drive it was still making the noise. Good times...thank for the help.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 01:47 PM
  #27  
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IWE Issue - Solenoid Bypass

Related How-To for bypassing the solenoid.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/4452703-post129.html
 
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Old May 8, 2011 | 06:44 PM
  #28  
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From: Royal Oak. MI
This was my issue today, thanks to the people who wrote it up, it was an easy fix after I understood it.

-Tim
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 01:43 AM
  #29  
Milt IV's Avatar
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From: DFW TX
man i love this msg board. going to investigate and replace whats needed and fix the problem i have. glad i didnt pay the stealership a zillion dollars for this.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #30  
Milt IV's Avatar
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From: DFW TX
my buddy and i did this repair up at his shop over the weekend. took us a total of about 65 mins to replace the drivers side actuator and the vacuum line that went to the actuators themselves.

after performing the leak down test it was clear what parts were faulty and what needed to be replaced. got my actuator from tasca parts and used some vacuum lines that were laying around the shop.

total cost of repair, approx $100 for the parts (rush shipping) and $0 in labor as we did the repair ourselves. nothing to it. so glad the dreaded grinding noise is gone and my 4wheel drive is working like a champ.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.
Sincerely,
Milt IV
 
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