White Face Guages Installed
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 279
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From: Rock and a Hardspot
White Face Guages Installed
I installed a the NR Auto White face guage kit on Sunday it only took me about and hour to get the dash removed and put the guages in and 30min to poistion the needles.
1. Warm engine up and mark where needles are at at idle. Then mark where they are going 20mph and then again at 40pmp just to be safe.
2. Remove the three bolts (7mm I think) from the top part of the cluster shroud.
3. Remove the bolt just below the light switch and dimmer.
4. Remove the lower part of the cluster shroud just pulls off.
5. Remove the left and right 7mm bolt that holds the cluster in they are covered by the lower shroud.
6. Now pull the left side of the dash apart to reveal(will not come completely pull away) the head light switch and push small tab in so the head light switch will pop out. Remove Wiring adpaters from the switch. Now remove the last 7mm bolt holding that was behind the headlight switch.
7. Remove the 7 bolts holding the clear plastic cover and then pull the black plastic cover away fromt the cluster (it justs sits in there).
8. Remove the needles, tripodometer, and stop pins.
9. Peel the old faces off. Mine just came right off.
10. Install new guages, reinstall needles were you had marked them at idle and make sure your speedo is set correctly and put the dash back together.
I tested my speedo for accuracy by drving along side a friend going 20 and 40mph. I am off just little 2mph but not enough for me to redo it just for 2mph.
I didnt take any pics but will when my dash is ready.
I think anyone can do it. It was my first time doing them and it did not take me very long at all.
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1998 F150 STX 4.6L V8 Black w/Grey int. 6 disc CD-Changer, 5% tint, 2" drop shackles, CheckMate Flush Style bed cover, clear corners, APC Euro Clear Tails, SuperWhites, Infinity 5725cf all around, SS Speed Grille w/ bumper, Helwig rearsway bar,Superchip, Airaid, Mangecor KV8.5 wires, Bosch Plat +4, and Jardine Cat-Back single out.
Future Mods:
Pro-M, Throtle Body, Pulleys, Carbon Fiber, Headers, High Flow Cats, and Edlebrock shocks.
1. Warm engine up and mark where needles are at at idle. Then mark where they are going 20mph and then again at 40pmp just to be safe.
2. Remove the three bolts (7mm I think) from the top part of the cluster shroud.
3. Remove the bolt just below the light switch and dimmer.
4. Remove the lower part of the cluster shroud just pulls off.
5. Remove the left and right 7mm bolt that holds the cluster in they are covered by the lower shroud.
6. Now pull the left side of the dash apart to reveal(will not come completely pull away) the head light switch and push small tab in so the head light switch will pop out. Remove Wiring adpaters from the switch. Now remove the last 7mm bolt holding that was behind the headlight switch.
7. Remove the 7 bolts holding the clear plastic cover and then pull the black plastic cover away fromt the cluster (it justs sits in there).
8. Remove the needles, tripodometer, and stop pins.
9. Peel the old faces off. Mine just came right off.
10. Install new guages, reinstall needles were you had marked them at idle and make sure your speedo is set correctly and put the dash back together.
I tested my speedo for accuracy by drving along side a friend going 20 and 40mph. I am off just little 2mph but not enough for me to redo it just for 2mph.
I didnt take any pics but will when my dash is ready.
I think anyone can do it. It was my first time doing them and it did not take me very long at all.
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1998 F150 STX 4.6L V8 Black w/Grey int. 6 disc CD-Changer, 5% tint, 2" drop shackles, CheckMate Flush Style bed cover, clear corners, APC Euro Clear Tails, SuperWhites, Infinity 5725cf all around, SS Speed Grille w/ bumper, Helwig rearsway bar,Superchip, Airaid, Mangecor KV8.5 wires, Bosch Plat +4, and Jardine Cat-Back single out.
Future Mods:
Pro-M, Throtle Body, Pulleys, Carbon Fiber, Headers, High Flow Cats, and Edlebrock shocks.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 204
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From: St Louis, MO
Where were you 3 days ago? I just installed a set of Speed-Glo gauges Saturday. The only problem is that the gas and oil gauges don't work all the time. They don't move until I've been driving for about 10 min. And the engine temp gauge hasn't worked at all. I'm going to take it all apart this weekend and try again, maybe they just need to be put on tighter or something?
Any way, it looks great and the speedo and tach seem to be alright.
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2000 F-150 XLT, Silver, R/C, Flareside, Sport Package, 4.6L V8, 5-Speed w/ 3.55 Gears, Flowmaster, A.R.E. "Lowrider" Fiberglass Tonneau, Superchip, 2" Drop Shackles, Lightning Front Bumper,Street Scene Speed Grilles,APC Speed-Glo Gauge Face, AiRaid FIPK
Any way, it looks great and the speedo and tach seem to be alright.
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2000 F-150 XLT, Silver, R/C, Flareside, Sport Package, 4.6L V8, 5-Speed w/ 3.55 Gears, Flowmaster, A.R.E. "Lowrider" Fiberglass Tonneau, Superchip, 2" Drop Shackles, Lightning Front Bumper,Street Scene Speed Grilles,APC Speed-Glo Gauge Face, AiRaid FIPK
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 279
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From: Rock and a Hardspot
I left the dash apart until the needls were set and when using the tool that NR Auto provided I wrapped the end of it with blk eletric. tape so I would no scape the gauges. The needles just dont pull off you will have to use the tool. But you can put them on with out fully pressing them on. What I mean is I put the needles on half way before I start driving that way all I had to do was line it up and push it the rest of the way on.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3
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From: CHARLOTTE,NC
WHEN REINSTALLING THE NEEDLES DID YOU PUT THE DASH BACK IN THE TRUCK AND START IT UP AND PUT THEM BACK ON....AND IF THE NEEDLE WAS ON WRONG WAS IT HARD TO GET BACK OFF WITH OUT SCREWING UP THE GAUGE IT SELF.