I forgot to mention it to you... I used the cheaper of the two they make.. I didn't need the grounding bus on the block. I just grounded the relays to the mounting plate. I'll see what I can do this weekend, but it'll probably be the Christmas holiday before I can get a write-up or some good pix... I've got 3 projects and 3 exams in the next week and a half... I'll get to it eventually.
-Joe-

 

The fuse block I bought at a Boat US store, but I've seen them at West Marine as well. It was about $23 with my discount. It's the only covered fuse block I could find, but unfortunately it takes the tube-type fuses. It's rated for 30A max through any one circuit and 100A max combined... perfect for 3 or 4 sets of lights. :-) I would have preferred the blade type, but I couldn't find a nice covered block anywhere. I mounted it to a piece of diamond tread aluminum that my dad happened to have sitting in the garage, and spliced the wires to 5 relays on the right. (They're different brands because of it was all I could find in a 10 mile radius!) All told, it cost about $50 in parts if you include the wiring and connectors, relays, etc. I mounted it to the bracket that the wiring harness goes through right there in front of the solenoid. (It was the most convenient spot, and had 2 holes on the bracket to begin with. (If you want more info, I can try and take some more detailed pix this weekend with my dad's digital camera) It's not as pretty as I would have liked to make it, but it works!
-Joe-

 

Yeah, I would love to get one of these. I'm new to the electrician world...I'm doing very well so far. I have always been able to do things myself, rather than pay someone else to do it. With the exceptions here and there. More detailed pics would be great. Thanks.

Please, check out my web site when you get a chance.
www.bmgsite.com

 

Here ya go *****, heres how I mounted mine:



The first two are for the grill guard and roll bar, and the third is for a spare set.

 

Heres my switches, the up position is them on, the middle position is the lights off and the bottom position is the lights can come on with the headlights.

 

Bomber... that's essentially how I wired mine... the relay is controlled by a DPDT switch. to the one side, I have my 2 power sourcesm and when the wire comes out in the center, I jumper it across to the other half of the switch. This gives me the 2 inputs I need for the LED. I can tell at a glance which power source I'm using. For the first two, the CB and Radar Detector, I made those green and down with switched power, red and up is with hot all the time. #3 is the Lumi-Logo, red with switched, green with parking lights. the three on the right are all for lights, (Even though there are no lights just yet...) they are wired to be on with switched power up with the red light, or down with green is on with the high beams (sort of a "supernova-to-pass" feature... :-) )

-Joe-

 

Question for Spargo2. Did you fabrcate the panel for your KC switches or were you able to place them into the pocket on a radio dash adapter? Looks great just looking into doing a similar set up on a buddys F250.

Thanx Jim

 

Jim, I used the switch brackets that came with the KC's. 3M'ed them together and 3M'ed the whole thing in the radio pocket after I ran the wires.

Good luck!!!

 

Another question for spargo2. The mounting plate itself, did you make it or did you buy it somewhere.

 

No the kit comes with the little switch bracket (little black thing with KC on it) so you can mount it on something flat.

In the pic it's the little black bracket in front:

 

Sorry wasn't real clear on my last post. The piece I was talking about is the one above the cdplayer that the KC brackets are mounted to. Did you make that or did it come with the cdplayer?

 

No problem, most install kits for aftermarket decks have that pocket in them since the factory deck is so much larger than an aftermarket.

 

Powerstoke, There are 2 kinds of install kits for the radios. 1st one is with the pocketon top of the radio. 2nd one just has a flat panel on top of the radio. Apparently the first choice is the most common b/c when I went to my friends shop he was amazed by the lack of a pocket. Pocketless kits are out there, just a pain to find. Here is a pic to make sure we are on the same page.


------------------
1997 F150 4.2 4x2 X-CAB Flareside Black
With all of that out of the way, lets get to the good stuff:
STEREO: Special thanks to Josh & Popps @ www.radio-active.org
I'm going to change my whole set up.
Under D'Hood:[*] Only a K&N filter.
Its lame, you have to start somewhere right? Trust me, I dream BIG.
On D'Skin:[*] Bug Deflector[*] One Vent Visior, other fell off[*] windshield sticker for www.radio-active.org[*] Hyperwhite headlight bulbs[*] Clear quarter & back glass for an even tint. Thanks Progressive![*] Custom door dings from some A$$HOLE in a parking lot on both sides.
LINKS:
www.radio-active.org
www.roadarmor.com I said I have big dreams right?
www.nookie.com




[This message has been edited by F150Degrees (edited 12-15-2000).]

 

[This message has been edited by F150Degrees (edited 12-15-2000).]

 

Thanks you guys answered my question. F150degrees I love your deck. Thought about getting one like that for my truck, but decided to try and pay it off first. Maybe I can get one for xmas???? Never know.