This is what I currently have in my truck:
-Kenwood DDX512 head unit
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX5....html?tp=20217

-Infinity Kappa 680.9 components (50w RMS & 150w peak for the tweeters and 90w RMS & 270w peak for the woofers)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UrHXEsl...a-680-9cs.html

-JL 10W1v2-4 subwoofer (300w RMS & 600w peak)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W1...-4.html?tp=111

I have 2 amps and I can't decide what one to use.
-Pyle PLAD413 4 channel amp (4x200w RMS & 4x500w max, 2x800w max bridged)
http://www.pyleaudio.com/itemdetail.asp?model=PLAD413
If I use this I don't really know how I would wire it with the sub and 4 speakers.

-Orion CS500.5 5 channel amp (4x50w & 1x150w @ 4ohms/4x70w & 1x300w @ 2ohms)
http://www.teamcsw.com/candypress/sc...p?idproduct=37
Is there a way to switch between 2 & 4 ohms?

Which amp would you all use?

 

As far as switching between 4 and 2 ohm, that depends on your speakers. Look at the back of them and see what the ohm rating is. Most infinity speakers are 2 ohm rated. And since you only running a single sub you will also go off the ohm rating posted on the back of it as well. You can't flip a switch on the amp and make it put out the 2 ohm rated power. It's all determined by the load wired to the amp, aka speakers.

I never used either of the amps you listed. Heard Orion has a good name though!

 

I looked at both amps and didn't see a ohm switch on either one. I'm thinking about using just the Orion so I don't have to worry about bridging the connections. I don't know a whole lot about this stuff, so even know the Orion amp has less power, it might just be easier to have a separate channel for each speaker and sub.

 

There isn't an ohm switch. It is determined by how the sub is wired. You have a 4 ohm sub.

 

Both the components and the subwoofer you listed are 4 ohm. The pyle amp is 4 channel and the orion amp is 5 channel. Both appear to have low pass filters which you will need since your HU does not have sub preamp outputs.

You will need 2 channels, one left one right, to run the front components off of and a second 2 channels to bridge or a single mono channel to run the sub.

You did not list any rear speakers? But if you are keeping the stockers for fill you could just run them off the HU.

 

orion is a better brand than pyle, i would trust them better as far as reliability

 

Thanks for the responses.

ab46501,
I'm running components in the front and rear. The HU has 2 sets of RCAs, one set for the front, and the second set you can choose in the HU setup options whether you want them for rear or sub. I was thinking about using the Orion, then using one set of RCAs for the sub, and then use the other set, along with a Y-adapter, for the 4 speakers. What do you think of this setup?

 

Ok, get the Orion 5 channel. Don't split one set of preamps for the front and rear doors, you would lose fader control. Split off the front preamp for the sub, you can control the crossover points with the amps high and low pass filters.

 

Bad news. I hooked up the Orion 5 channel, and one of the channels isn't working. It sound really scratchy on the speaker. So I might be stuck either buying a new 5 channel, or using the 4 channel Pyle.
Is there a way to hook up the 4 channel Pyle to my 4 components and subwoofer?
Thanks.

 

I would run the front door speakers with the front 2 channels of the Pyle amp & bridge the rear 2 channels of the Pyle amp to run the sub. It looks like that amp includes the remote level controller to adjust the rear channel volume which will be connected to the sub. You can leave the rear speakers disconnected or try running them off the rear channels of the head unit(22watts). Eventually you will want to buy a dedicated subwoofer amp & then use the 4 channel amp to run all your door speakers. Hope this helps