Options for Line out converter and sub
Options for Line out converter and sub
Getting ready to do an install on my 2010 XLT SCREW and want to keep the stock head unit but amp my aftermarket door speakers. What are my options for a line out converter that will remove the "frequency clipping" associated with the stock head unit.
Also looking for a sub, probably a 10" but open to a 12" is the specs are right, that I can build a box to fit under the rear seat 40% side. it will probably build out to be more like 50% of the back seat. I listen to mostly rock, would a downfire sub box be best, ported or sealed?
Also looking for a sub, probably a 10" but open to a 12" is the specs are right, that I can build a box to fit under the rear seat 40% side. it will probably build out to be more like 50% of the back seat. I listen to mostly rock, would a downfire sub box be best, ported or sealed?
A LOC will not remove the "frequency clipping" as you call it. It will only pass it along if it exists. Best you can do is EQ it before amp. A Cleansweep or RF 360 would do it but they need proper installation and setup to shine.
I'm doing the same thing, keeping the factory radio and adding an amp and new speakers. My parts should be here Wednesday and I hope to install them this weekend. I could be on the wrong track here but I think the with extra power from the amp I shouldn't need to turn it up as much to get the volume I want and maybe avoid some of the clipping in the factory radio. Any thoughts on this?
Yes, that should work. If you turn your gain on your amp up, it will get louder quicker and thus won't cut the bass out of it. It drops the base at a certain volume, so if you stay below that, you should not have that issue.
The install is done and what a difference! With the factory HU, 4 new Kenwood speakers, a 600 watt Bazooka amp and a 120 watt powered sub it sounds great. I can't even turn it past half way without blowing my ears out. Thats where the stock sytem would go real bad and cut almost all bass. Not anymore.


