I hope I'm posting this in the right place. So I started installing a system in my 2010 Screw. It has the factory stereo w/sync. For now I want to keep the factory stereo. I am installing the following components:
Front stage: Infinity 6820cs components (installed)
Rear stage: none
Sub/box: Image Dynamics ID10D2v.3 in a box from Supercrewsound
Amp: Kenwood XR-4S
LOC: MTX reQ
Amp kit: 4ga kit from Knuconceptz

I will be installing the amp behind the back seat. My main questions are, how do I tap into the factory wiring to hook up my LOC? Is it necessary to cut the carpet on the rear wall to mount a piece of MDF to mount the amp and LOC? Or can I just mount a piece of MDF right on top of the carpet? Where are the best options for running all the wires? I bought the following wiring harnesses to make things easier, but second guessing whether I need them or not.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a+70-5520.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...71-5520-1.html

Any pics would be great, but a simple explanation will do. Any help is much appreciated. This is my first endeavor at installing a "proper" system in a vehicle. Thanks for any help!

 

the best play for the LOC is at the stereo. That way if you go aftermarket in the future, you dont have to re-run wires for your amp.

Those two harnesses dont neccesary make it easier, but do help you avoid splicing into your factory wiring.

 

To make it even easier - use the blue tooth harness. There is an added BT connector you can simply cut-off but the other two will connect between your radio harness. You can tap into the harness for your speaker leads.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a+BT-5520.html

You only need any of these harnesses if you do not want to mess with your OEM wiring or don't mind splicing into your harness while it is still in the truck. With the Metra harnesses, you can solder all your hi - level speaker leads on a work bench - much easier.

You shouldn't have much problem installing a piece of 1/2" MDF over your carpeting in the rear. Your amp is just over 2" thick. However, you will need to at least remove the carpeting to see where you need to drill into w/o going all the way thru your cab wall to the outside.

I would run the power wire and hi level connections down the passenger side kick-panel. Pull the power wire thru the passenger side firewall using a coat hanger or other, it is hard to get to. I ran 1/0 and my connections this way w/o too much of a problem. If you ever need a remote turn on lead, it is the solid blue wire in the passenger kick panel harness so can run down the same side.

I put my LOC on my back-wall also and have 0 plans to change that in the future. If you ever believe you may upgrade your HU in the future, listen to sundevil, put the LOC up front - he speaks from alot of experience.

 

^ The two harnesses he already bought are a BT harness without the bluetooth end...

 

although if you go aftermarket the preamp output voltage is typically higher, you could always put in a line driver though, but yes, LOC at the headunit for sure

 

This is exactly what I am wanting to do. I am wanting to amp my door speakers with an Alpine amp that I have. I just ordered the two wiring harnesses you did as well.

I think it was on this sight or maybe another one that a guy did this and had a great write up with great pictures, and now I can't find it. If anyone knows where it is can you give us the link. It was either on this site or FordTrucks site.

I have done this before on an older Ford. I never cut into any wires at all. Just used the reverse and regular harnesses. It is a lot of wire to put in, but it can work.

Thanks.

 

Will my BT not work with them?

 

The bluetooth harness he mentioned is for adding an aftermarket bluetooth system to a stock radio. It allows for a plug and play application as opposed to splicing into speaker wires, shutting off amps (if equipped), etc etc. Has nothing to do with your stock BT

 

ask and yee shall recieve....

link

 

Thanks! Good info there. I'll probably mount the LOC in the rear with the amp, since I have no plans of upgrading the HU at least for now. What would be the best option for tapping into the stock HU if I'm mounting the LOC in the rear? My main goal is better sound, with the stock look. With nothing showing, except the comp tweets, and the sub box of course.

 

Thanks PapaJohn.
I appreciate it.
I have no intentions of changing the Head Unit either. The amp I am using has high level inputs as well as pre amp, so I am not going to use a line converter. Also, it has it's own pre amp outs to hook up a sub amp right from the 4 channel amp, which makes it easier. Not sure if I am going with a sub or not, as I want to keep space under the seat for storage.
I am changing all the door speaks out for sure.
That write up with pics is really helpful in getting the head unit out and all.

 

Ok, so I'm going to mount the LOC in the rear with the amp. I'm pretty sure I won't be swapping my HU anytime soon. Plus, I'll have easy access to the LOC for any tweaking I need to do on it. The MTX re-Q has 10 wires on it. They are:
blue=remote out
white/black=left front -
white=left front +
brown/black=sub-
brown=sub +
grey/black=right front -
grey=right front +
red=remote in
black=chassis ground
yellow=12v constant

All of those are pretty self explanatory. I just need to find the factory colors for each. Where do I tap the two sub wires? I'm pretty sure my truck doesn't have those. Is there a place in the rear I can tap into all these wires, or will I have to run wires from the HU? Last question, Which of these harnesses should I incorporate for my needs?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a+70-5520.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...71-5520-1.html

I'm trying to get all this done in the next week or so. I'm doing what I can, with the free time I have. Again, thanks for all the help. I just want to make sure I do things right...the first time.

 

Im trying to make this as easy as possible for you.

Mount the REQ behind your head unit. It is way easier to run/keep track of 2 sets of RCA's as opposed to the 7 wires youd have to run if you were to put it in the back.

you will need both of those harnesses if you want to do this without splicing into factory wiring

 

The problem with that is easy access to the LOC for any tweaking. I'll see if there is anywhere up front I can mount it for access. What about the two sub wires on the LOC? Where do I connect them to the factory wiring? I appreciate the advice, and trying to keep things as simple as possible.

 

How the heck do I get my factory HU out. I read the thread brn2ryd posted. I pulled the bolts above the HU right in front of the display, and couldn't pull the unit out. I don't have an ashtray. I looked/felt everywhere I could think bolts would be hiding, with no luck. Any help would be great. Thanks!