Hey guys, I just bought a Kenwood 8104d amp pushing 300 watts x 1channel and I bought 2 JL Audio 10w1 with 150wattRMS. I have 2 questions....

1. Will the amp pushing 300x1 blow my subs at 150rms each???

2. Im installing this system to stock headunit..will I need a line output converter or no???

Thnx in advance...

 

should not blow then although i would recommend breaking them in first.

yes you will need a line output converter

 

If you keep the gain turned down you shouldn't have to worry to much about the subs, and for your seccond question, yes you will need a line output device of some type. Unless for some funny reason you factory head unit has pre-amp outputs, witch I doubt it does.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Each sub will get 150 watts .If that is the RMS rating for each sub , then they will handle it . Are the subs single or dual voice coil ?

 

You may want to check your amp manual. Your amp has the ability to have speaker level inputs if you have the harness listed in the manual so you shouldn't need the line converter.

Now depending how you hook the subs up can matter. If you bridge them your going to be getting 250w RMS to both subs. Which is better IMO, just set the levels down on the amp and adjust as needed to hit the sweet spot.

 

Bloated numbers . Your not going to get that much power from a $120.00 amplifier with 1 40 amp fuse .

 

CEA rated isn't bloated numbers. That was the point of the CEA rating system- to stop exaggerations.

 

single

 

so as long as i keep the gain down ttheres no problem??
and is a 2 chhannel the right type of line out converter il need?

 

Correct. I sell/install many of those amps. The KAC-8104D comes with a speaker level input harness. This feature makes it easier to add an amplifier to a factory radio or to a receiver with no preamp outputs. You don't need to connect the remote turn-on wire either when using the speaker-level input harness because the power of the amplifier is turned "On" and "Off" as the amp detects input signal from the unit's speaker level input.

 

Do you see CEA next to 1000 watts ? How do you know if those CEA ratings are MAX or RMS . I would bet they are max output ratings .

 

No kidding Genius . Since you mentioned there not being "CEA" next to the 1000w then it wouldn't be CEA rated for 1000w. Now to anwer your question. CEA (since you so obviously pointed out yet still can't answer) isn't MAX it's the true output of the amp RMS, not peak wattage.

 

Impact is right. That amp is more then capable of the power ratings listed.

CEA-2006 Compliant
On May 28, 2003, the Consumer Electronics Association published standard CEA-2006, "Testing & Measurement Methods for Mobile Audio Amplifiers." This "voluntary" standard advocates a uniform method for determining an amplifier's RMS power and signal-to-noise ratio. Using 14.4 volts, RMS watts are measured into a 4-ohm impedance load at 1 percent Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) plus noise, at a frequency range (for general purpose amplifiers) of 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz. Signal-to-Noise ratio is measured in weighted absolute decibels (dBA) at a reference of 1 watt into 4 ohms. This applies to both external amplifiers and the amplifiers within in-dash receivers.

CEA-2006 allows consumers to be able to compare car amplifiers and receivers on an equal basis. Manufacturers who choose to abide by the new standard are able to stamp their products with the CEA-2006 logo that reads: "Amp Power Standard CEA-2006 Compliant."

Same thing is printed right in the MECP book...

 

That is my point , why even put 1000W in that amps specs ? That is a BLOATED number , because there is no way in hell that amp can come close to putting out that much power .

 

Because thats what manufactures do to promote sales...advertise a rediculous amount of peak power that will never actually be obtained. All it is is a marketing/sales tactic. Whats the big deal anyway? no one said anything about 1000w until you brought it up?