Where do you put your amp?
#16
haze, the back of the seat lifts up. its kinda hard to get out but a little force straight up on either side "pops" it out. then once thats out you can clearly see what bolts need to be removed for the bottom part of the seat. again the back just kinda snaps into place and out of place. good luck.
Last edited by r6racer; 07-30-2001 at 12:33 AM.
#17
#18
Originally posted by 12Vrep
Compustar SHF-2W-AS
Compustar SHF-2W-AS
What is MSRP? I think it's about $750.00US
What have other people paid?
Any problems for those who may have bought it?
I was just quoted 950 from a local isntaller. Seemed very high to me.
Thanks.
/tg
#19
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
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I paid about $650 to $700 for a Kenwood single CD, Viper alarm with shock sensor and an extra pin switch for the tonneau, INSTALLED! There's no way I would spend $750 for an alarm!:eek If someone wants your truck bad enough, they're going to get it. An alarm is just a deterrent for amateurs after all. Sorry, just my opinion. My truck has never been broken into in three years, my previous unalarmed vehicle got hit twice in a month!!,,,98
#20
Mount your amps were they can get some air circulation. I also strongly agree that you should definitely mount them out of site. If they are in an enclosed space then route some small flexible air duct to and from the area and blow air using some small muffin type fans from radio shack or www.partsexpress.com .
It always makes me laugh... these cheap amps with the plexiglass windows, huge volt meters, fancy neon, flashing LED's, etc. Gimme a break. All I want is a metal brick that pumps out the watts (rms not peak) with plenty of cooling fins and a size that will fit under a seat, etc. After all, you're not looking at it while you drive just listening.
I'm looking at some system upgrades soon and will be using the driver and passenger underseat areas. I'll probably have to move my 10cd changer which is under the passenger seat right now.
It always makes me laugh... these cheap amps with the plexiglass windows, huge volt meters, fancy neon, flashing LED's, etc. Gimme a break. All I want is a metal brick that pumps out the watts (rms not peak) with plenty of cooling fins and a size that will fit under a seat, etc. After all, you're not looking at it while you drive just listening.
I'm looking at some system upgrades soon and will be using the driver and passenger underseat areas. I'll probably have to move my 10cd changer which is under the passenger seat right now.
#21
um dude, have you thought about lifting your seat? go to http://www.lmiwelding.com/ and get a 3" lift kit for the seat. I've got that setup with 3 amps, a cap, and distribution block mounted to the top of my enclosure. I've had them there for about a year with no heat problems.
BTW- the fosgate amps get a little warm, but not objectionably... although they're going to be replaced with an alpine MRD-M500 V12 series within the next couple of weeks.
BTW- the fosgate amps get a little warm, but not objectionably... although they're going to be replaced with an alpine MRD-M500 V12 series within the next couple of weeks.
#22
#23
well, I'm about 5'9" and I dont have any problems. I've had people back there that are 6 foot plus, and they seemed to be able to sit up. One thing it does though is keep your knees out of your chest.
As far as the box, I bought it from Xtreme sounds in austin, but it appears to be the subbox.net dual down 10" -but covered in charcoal carpet.
As far as the box, I bought it from Xtreme sounds in austin, but it appears to be the subbox.net dual down 10" -but covered in charcoal carpet.
#24
#25
actually, its extremely sturdy... everything is reinforced and I've had 3 people back there. Just be sure you use loctite because the vibration from the subs can start to work things loose.
As for time, it took me about 3 1/2 hours, but that was because they sent me the wrong kit (97-98 style rear seat brackets) and I opted to do some cutting to make it work and align the joint where the two seats meet. With the proper kit, it would take about an hour.
As for time, it took me about 3 1/2 hours, but that was because they sent me the wrong kit (97-98 style rear seat brackets) and I opted to do some cutting to make it work and align the joint where the two seats meet. With the proper kit, it would take about an hour.
#27
did it about a year ago, but you'll need a PAIR ratchets with a torx bit and various sockets. A mid-sized crescent wrench is always a good thing to have within reach too.
what comes in the kit... lets see if I can remember.
mounting points for the outside brackets... should be 4 pieces- two bolts for the bottom/front on each side and one bolt for the top/rear just under the seatback. ('97-98 models have 2 pieces with 3 bolt holes each)
angle bracket for mounting the split in the bench
3 C-shaped brackets for raising the seatbelt buckle mount
associated mounting hardware.
instructions (for all you girly men)
what comes in the kit... lets see if I can remember.
mounting points for the outside brackets... should be 4 pieces- two bolts for the bottom/front on each side and one bolt for the top/rear just under the seatback. ('97-98 models have 2 pieces with 3 bolt holes each)
angle bracket for mounting the split in the bench
3 C-shaped brackets for raising the seatbelt buckle mount
associated mounting hardware.
instructions (for all you girly men)
Last edited by Ruune; 08-05-2002 at 02:37 PM.