Amp Power
#1
05-08-2001, 04:58 PM
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Amp Power
I have a 99 f150 reg cab. I am planning on installing an Orion extreme 500 in it this weekend. My question being what would be a good place to connect the power to?
Some say go direct to the battery but I have also heard to connect it to the starter? Please help, this is new to me.
Thanks
Some say go direct to the battery but I have also heard to connect it to the starter? Please help, this is new to me.
Thanks
#2
05-09-2001, 09:16 AM
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I have never seen anyone connect direct to the battery and don't see why you would. You need to have some sort of protection (either a fuse or circuit breaker within a few inches of the power source) Connect directly to the battery or even to the starter relay.
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97 F-150XL 4.2V6, 5 spd, 2wdlb, Kenwood cd, MTX 4ch amp, MTX 12"sub, MTX components in doors
Future 16x8 Daytona wheels, 265/75 tires, rhinoliner, perf stuff
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97 F-150XL 4.2V6, 5 spd, 2wdlb, Kenwood cd, MTX 4ch amp, MTX 12"sub, MTX components in doors
Future 16x8 Daytona wheels, 265/75 tires, rhinoliner, perf stuff
#3
05-09-2001, 09:40 AM
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I'm not sure what size alternator comes with the V-6 but on my 98' 4.6 a convenient spot to hook up 4 gauge cable was on the terminal block on the firewall just behind the battery (could be starter relay - was a few years ago). I have a 60A fuse inline a few inches from the connection there. I also ran 4 gauge ground cables back to the motor. If you are running something more than a crappo 100w amp it's a good idea to use the same size power and ground cables. Go for 4 gauge. It may be a bit harder to route but if you decide to add another amp in the future you won't have to rip the 8 gauge you ran out and replace it. I have a 500wrms Rodek powering a 12" Audiobahn Alum-12 with some serious excursion.
Generally most of the pro's connect directly to the battery terminals with 2 gauge or larger cables for large installs. Fortunately the F150 has nice thick 4 gauge style cabling from the battery to the alternator so it doesn't matter if you mount your positive connection on either. I prefer to mount to stationary mounting points though because the motor is free to move around on the engine mounts and eventually if you don't use a quality fine-strand cable it will fatigue. It's also probably harder to replace a fuse by the starter in your cable than by the firewall (could be hot down there too). Another advantage of mounting your positive to the terminal on the firewall is that you can literally hide your work behind the factory black plastic cover so it will still look factory under the hood. I ran my cables under the cab on the passenger side held up with heavy zap-straps and came into the interior through a large existing rubber grommet in the back passenger-side corner of the supercab. My power cables come out between the seat-back and seat-bottom which is a convenient place to mount your distribution block. From there I have double 8 gauge power and ground cables to my amp. Also power to my Audiocontrol EQX eq/crossover. My F150 was originally a lease so I did the install without cutting anything or damaging anything and it can be returned to factory. This is also useful if the next purchaser doesn't want the audio equipment or you don't want to part with it.
If you go over 500wrms consider adding a 1 farad stiffening capacitor in the interior by your sub amp, off your distribution blocks.
If you want to go stealth install consider mounting your crossover behind the centre of the rear seatback (if you have a S/C). My EQX is fairly large and still fits vertically. My amp is under the passenger side rear seat and I have a 1 cu.ft box under the driver's side rear seat with the sub facing into the box on a horizontal plane in front of the rear seat and behind the driver's seat. This saves room and allows three passengers in the back if the passenger behind the driver has their feet closer to the centre of the floor.
You can find inexpensive copper 4 gauge loop style connectors at Home Depot for your battery and ground connections in the engine compartment. Use electronic solder (lots of it) and heat the connector with a propane torch, then sink the stripped 4 gauge into it. The insulation will melt back a bit but you can use heat shrink tubing (put it on the wire first a foot back) and apply that over the whole connection to seal it from the elements.
4 gauge is good for around 100A.
Good luck.
Generally most of the pro's connect directly to the battery terminals with 2 gauge or larger cables for large installs. Fortunately the F150 has nice thick 4 gauge style cabling from the battery to the alternator so it doesn't matter if you mount your positive connection on either. I prefer to mount to stationary mounting points though because the motor is free to move around on the engine mounts and eventually if you don't use a quality fine-strand cable it will fatigue. It's also probably harder to replace a fuse by the starter in your cable than by the firewall (could be hot down there too). Another advantage of mounting your positive to the terminal on the firewall is that you can literally hide your work behind the factory black plastic cover so it will still look factory under the hood. I ran my cables under the cab on the passenger side held up with heavy zap-straps and came into the interior through a large existing rubber grommet in the back passenger-side corner of the supercab. My power cables come out between the seat-back and seat-bottom which is a convenient place to mount your distribution block. From there I have double 8 gauge power and ground cables to my amp. Also power to my Audiocontrol EQX eq/crossover. My F150 was originally a lease so I did the install without cutting anything or damaging anything and it can be returned to factory. This is also useful if the next purchaser doesn't want the audio equipment or you don't want to part with it.
If you go over 500wrms consider adding a 1 farad stiffening capacitor in the interior by your sub amp, off your distribution blocks.
If you want to go stealth install consider mounting your crossover behind the centre of the rear seatback (if you have a S/C). My EQX is fairly large and still fits vertically. My amp is under the passenger side rear seat and I have a 1 cu.ft box under the driver's side rear seat with the sub facing into the box on a horizontal plane in front of the rear seat and behind the driver's seat. This saves room and allows three passengers in the back if the passenger behind the driver has their feet closer to the centre of the floor.
You can find inexpensive copper 4 gauge loop style connectors at Home Depot for your battery and ground connections in the engine compartment. Use electronic solder (lots of it) and heat the connector with a propane torch, then sink the stripped 4 gauge into it. The insulation will melt back a bit but you can use heat shrink tubing (put it on the wire first a foot back) and apply that over the whole connection to seal it from the elements.
4 gauge is good for around 100A.
Good luck.