Config suggestions please:
I have a Blaupunkt GTA 3550 "1000 watt" five channel amp for my 2003 Screw and was wondering the best hookup setup.
Rigth now, I plan to power all four speakers and use the 5th channel for a sub behind the rear seatback. This configuration would give RMS power of 4 x 40 Watt and 1 x 160 Watts at 4 Ohms. At two Ohms RMS power would be 4 x 60 Watt and 1 x 250 Watts. My questions:
1) Is it worth powering the rear door speakers this way or should I just use 3 channels for RMS power of 2 x 105 Watts (front door speakers) and 1 x 160 Watts for subwoofer at 4 Ohms. Then just power the rear door speakers with the deck (DEH-P4800). I read here about some guys not really needing the rears with high power.
2) I was looking at this subwoofer enclosure for behind the rear seat:
http://www.supercrewsound.com/shop/detail/11/43.htm
With only 160 Watts for sub power at 4 Ohms would one 10" subwoofer be the way to go? Or should I run a 2 Ohm sub (or two) for the 250 Watts I can get with 2 Ohms?
3) With these power settings are there any opinions on the Boston Accoustics S85 speakers? Or Alpine 57C2?
Rigth now, I plan to power all four speakers and use the 5th channel for a sub behind the rear seatback. This configuration would give RMS power of 4 x 40 Watt and 1 x 160 Watts at 4 Ohms. At two Ohms RMS power would be 4 x 60 Watt and 1 x 250 Watts. My questions:
1) Is it worth powering the rear door speakers this way or should I just use 3 channels for RMS power of 2 x 105 Watts (front door speakers) and 1 x 160 Watts for subwoofer at 4 Ohms. Then just power the rear door speakers with the deck (DEH-P4800). I read here about some guys not really needing the rears with high power.
2) I was looking at this subwoofer enclosure for behind the rear seat:
http://www.supercrewsound.com/shop/detail/11/43.htm
With only 160 Watts for sub power at 4 Ohms would one 10" subwoofer be the way to go? Or should I run a 2 Ohm sub (or two) for the 250 Watts I can get with 2 Ohms?
3) With these power settings are there any opinions on the Boston Accoustics S85 speakers? Or Alpine 57C2?
If your going to be running two pairs of those speakers, then I would just run the amp in 5 channel mode, one channel to each speaker.
I would for sure run that amp at 2 ohms too, on the sub channel. There are plenty of good subs to choose from that will work great off of 250 watts, and be available in 2 ohms.
OR, another option would be to stick a nice set of components in the front doors, bridge the amp so its in 3 channel mode, and totaly forget about any rear speakers.
I would for sure run that amp at 2 ohms too, on the sub channel. There are plenty of good subs to choose from that will work great off of 250 watts, and be available in 2 ohms.
OR, another option would be to stick a nice set of components in the front doors, bridge the amp so its in 3 channel mode, and totaly forget about any rear speakers.
I appreciate your opinion bartek.
I'm thinking of going for the ID10D4v3:
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/tech...type=sub&id=id
Also, that subwoofer enclosure takes up the whole space behind the rear seat and seems to be designed for two subs. I'd like to mount the amp back there too because I need the seat to be able to fold down still. I can't find an enclosure that mounts behind the seat that is only .7 square feet and leaves room for something else. I think I will build it myself. If anyone has built one and has any insight or known measurements, I'm all 'ears'.
Thanks.
I'm thinking of going for the ID10D4v3:
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/tech...type=sub&id=id
Also, that subwoofer enclosure takes up the whole space behind the rear seat and seems to be designed for two subs. I'd like to mount the amp back there too because I need the seat to be able to fold down still. I can't find an enclosure that mounts behind the seat that is only .7 square feet and leaves room for something else. I think I will build it myself. If anyone has built one and has any insight or known measurements, I'm all 'ears'.
Thanks.
Nice sub, will work great off 250 watts.
http://www.supercrewsound.com/shop/detail/11/45.htm
IF you have any basic carpentry skills, you came make your own box faily easy too.
BTW, love the truck man
http://www.supercrewsound.com/shop/detail/11/45.htm
IF you have any basic carpentry skills, you came make your own box faily easy too.
BTW, love the truck man
Thanks for the link. I never saw that one. That's almost exactly what I need and it looks easy to build too from that angle. If I made it for the other side, I may still be able to fit the amp in and the jack...
Thanks for your comments on my truck. That picture is a little squished, but you get the idea.
Thanks for your comments on my truck. That picture is a little squished, but you get the idea.
No problem.
Maybe you could make a rectangle that is kind of inset on the face of the box. Mount the amp back in that so it doenst stick out from the front of the box and the seat will go back. Then the amp wont really take up any space, and you will still be able to fit the jack and some other things.
Maybe you could make a rectangle that is kind of inset on the face of the box. Mount the amp back in that so it doenst stick out from the front of the box and the seat will go back. Then the amp wont really take up any space, and you will still be able to fit the jack and some other things.
I totally agree with Bartak about powering it. I really like the idea of running in 3 channel mode and getting 250 to the sub. If you need rear speakers, run them off the deck like you suggested doing. Should work out nice.
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After I took out everything behind the seat I was surprised to see how much room there actually is back there. The reason the sub is best on the right is because there is a hump in the floor on the left that would complicate the construction of the box. It can be a simple wedge on the right. This site is great to help calculate the volume of home made boxes:
http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
According to Image dynamics I only need .6 cubic feet for a sealed box on the ID10D4. Ordered the dual voice coil 4 Ohm version so I can hook the dual connectors up in parallel to achieve 2 Ohms. With this setup my amp advertises 250 watts RMS even with the other four channels powered. I'll still have room to the left of the sub box to mount the amp, jack, etc. I just need to come up with a clean way of making those hinged flaps that fold across the gap when the seat folds down. Hmmm.
By the way, I ordered a couple sets of Polk Audio DB570's for the doors. Online places are blowing them out now that the 571's are out. I hope I'll be happy with 40 Watts RMS going to these??
http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
According to Image dynamics I only need .6 cubic feet for a sealed box on the ID10D4. Ordered the dual voice coil 4 Ohm version so I can hook the dual connectors up in parallel to achieve 2 Ohms. With this setup my amp advertises 250 watts RMS even with the other four channels powered. I'll still have room to the left of the sub box to mount the amp, jack, etc. I just need to come up with a clean way of making those hinged flaps that fold across the gap when the seat folds down. Hmmm.
By the way, I ordered a couple sets of Polk Audio DB570's for the doors. Online places are blowing them out now that the 571's are out. I hope I'll be happy with 40 Watts RMS going to these??
Originally Posted by Johnny340
. I just need to come up with a clean way of making those hinged flaps that fold across the gap when the seat folds down. Hmmm.
By the way, I ordered a couple sets of Polk Audio DB570's for the doors. Online places are blowing them out now that the 571's are out. I hope I'll be happy with 40 Watts RMS going to these??
By the way, I ordered a couple sets of Polk Audio DB570's for the doors. Online places are blowing them out now that the 571's are out. I hope I'll be happy with 40 Watts RMS going to these??
Always nice when you find out you have more room than you thought

I guess Im not even sure what flaps your talking about. Im not to familiar with Screws myself.
40 watts should do them good


