Some people use mdf for a a base board. What screws did you use to mount that board to the metal backing? Pictures would help. I am getting ready to install a sundown sae-1000D

 

Just use some self tapping screws from the hardware store 1/2" to 3/4" longer than the thickness of the MDF, drill a hole in the MDF just big enough for the screw to fit though it, you don't want the screw threading into the MDF, if it does, the board may vibrate... it need to the solid to the metal....

make sure you stay in the double wall or support bars, you don't want screws sticking out the back of the cab wall.... LOL

 

I think I would consider some industrial Velcro. That way you wouldn't have to drill holes.

I've seen some Velcro that will hold up a lot of weight.

 

looking at your gallery i see you didnt use mdf at all. how did u do yours?

 

I screwed the amps on the brace wide (bar) below the small one that the seat belt teather are on, and 1 screw at the bottom on the metal bracket that sticks out... but I was in a hurry... this isn't the way to do it and can lead to your amps picking up noise from being chassis grounded....and yes I have a very little hum in my system with the vol all the way off... but I was looking for worst, thats why it been like that for over a year....

I have sound deadener and MFD thats going in as soon as the rest of my upgrade stuff gets here this week... on a proper install, the amps cases should never be grounded... I had the caps in my work shop laying on the shelf, so I installed them... but there are coming out per advice of everyone I talked to....

 

yea i have also heard caps are worthless if not bad.

 

I have a few questions. Some may be stupid, so I should apologize in advance.
What is MDF?
Is it ok to mount the amp right to the metal body? Or should a wood or another non conducting board be used? I hate that amp whine, what is the best way to avoid this in an f150?
Does any body still use the stock head unit and if so how is your am reception?
I am considering XM, but I want local baseball annoucers and not the road guys when the Red Sox are out of town.
Thanks for the help, I trust you guys more than some local shops!

 

If I mount amps to a cab wall I use liquid nails to hold the board to the wall then screws to hold amp in place on board.Claen the painted surface to remove any oils and the like.Ruff up the board with 40grit sand paper and apply liquid nails to board.Place board on cab wall and use a 2x4 or some thing to brace board and apply pressure while glue dries.Done many customer trucks this way and never have a single problem.

 

MDF= Medium density fiberboard. Its basically what almost all sub boxes are made of. If they are not made out of MDF then they are probably fiberglass. MDF board usually comes in 3/4 size but you can pick it up in other sizes to.

 

MDF is for Medium density fiberboard

Amps should never be mounted to the chassis (grounded)...
just do as I say, not as you see in my gallery... I was in a hurry...

 

Can see the use of liquid nails as a vibvration damper, but no what on this earth i'm going to trust it to hold a 1000.00 of amps up that if they fall and cause a short, can in turn damage a 2000.00 HU and another 1000.00 in speakers..... for what, to save a few screw hole in a double wall... Hell no,

But thats me....

 

so your going to use mdf and what type of screws?

 

Just a self tapper 1 1/4" long for 3/4 MDF with a countersunk head, you could even used metal stud drywall screws, the ones with fine threads, but you will have the drill a pilot hole for them....

hell, sometimes I even drill a pilot hole for the self tappers, drill it with a small bit, then let the self tapper drill the rest and they go in easer in thicker metal....

 

Yep, MDP is the way I went as well, you can see a couple of the screw I used to attach it to the back wall in the following pic (they were just normal self tapping screws that I also drilled pilot holes for):

 

Here's mine, which I FINALLY got a chance to do yesterday.

Maybe it'll give you ideas... <shrug>



I used 1/4", because at 2.5" thick, the amp was pushing near contact with the seatback foam and the child safety/seat back bar support if I used 1/2" or larger.

The 1/4" is fine for strength, and will give me more air circulation room when the seat back goes back in.

I had to remove all the jute padding from behind the carpet to get the carpet to lay flush against the metal, and I had to cut the big hump out that normally covers the power slider window motor. Doing these two things, the MDF sits flat against the wall, and the vent hole I cut in it allows the amp's internally bottom mounted fan to draw air from BEHIND the MDF panel/carpet liner; sort of a 'fresh air conduit' since those channels behind the liner run all the way to each side's C pillar cavities.

All in all, I like how it turned out though. Alot. =)

E.