?'s for Impact 9 and Bartak1
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From: Willmar, Minnesota
Originally Posted by snopro678
What do you think of this kit?
Bartak1 what do you think about this kit?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...6657&rd=1&rd=1
Last edited by snopro678; Jul 24, 2007 at 11:26 PM.
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From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by snopro678
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-4-8-Gaug...QQcmdZViewItem
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From: Willmar, Minnesota
Will this kit work?
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=KOL-AK44
And then add:
-20 ft. more of 18 ga. remote wire
-20 ft. more of 12 ga. speaker wire
-battery terminal
-ground dist. block
-power dist. block (don't know what size fuse?)
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=KOL-AK44
And then add:
-20 ft. more of 18 ga. remote wire
-20 ft. more of 12 ga. speaker wire
-battery terminal
-ground dist. block
-power dist. block (don't know what size fuse?)
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From: Willmar, Minnesota
Originally Posted by Bartak1
If Im following your drawing right it looks great...little small for me to read it and see it exactley though...
You have a couple options here. You can....
1) Run one turn on wire from the HU to one of the amps turn on, then from that amps turn on to the other amps turn on.
2) you can run separate wires from the HU to each amps turn on input and put a switch on the wires somwhere where it is easy to get at. By doing this you have the option to turn the amps on or off separate from one another. Kind of a nice thing to have, I do it on my vehicles.
All you need to do is hook them up to the stock speaker wiring. You will have to splice into the stock wiring right at your speakers harness, and run a little extra wire from there to your new speakers with the correct type of terminal for your speakers. You could also try cutting the factory plug off and crimping your connector on the stock wire, but the stock wiring is usually a little short, so its easier just to strip a little insulation off the stock wire to splice a little more wire on.
No need to mess with running new wires or anything.
Your crossover will have mulitple places to connect wires. The first one is the INPUT. Simply run your speaker wire from the amps outputs to the INPUT on the crossover. Next, there will be TWEETER and WOOFER terminals on the crossover. Run speaker wire from the tweeter outputs to the tweeter, and the woofer outputs to your woofer. Easy as that.
Since you have a 4 channel and are only running a set of components off them then yes I would bridge it. More power, plus you will be using all your amp has to offer. HOWEVER, you will need to be very carfull with the gain since you will be sending roughly DOUBLE the amount of power the speakers are rated for.
If your paraniod and want to for sure be on the safe side, you can wire the components just to the front ouputs on the amp, which would be a waste of the rear channels, but you wont have all that power that might fry your speakers if you go volume happy.
Maybe it would be a good idea to run the components off the front 2 channels of the amp only for awhile untill you get a little more experience and know what to listen for in a stressing speaker and such, THEN you could go ahead and bridge them on the amp for some more powa!
#3
You have a couple options here. You can....
1) Run one turn on wire from the HU to one of the amps turn on, then from that amps turn on to the other amps turn on.
2) you can run separate wires from the HU to each amps turn on input and put a switch on the wires somwhere where it is easy to get at. By doing this you have the option to turn the amps on or off separate from one another. Kind of a nice thing to have, I do it on my vehicles.
All you need to do is hook them up to the stock speaker wiring. You will have to splice into the stock wiring right at your speakers harness, and run a little extra wire from there to your new speakers with the correct type of terminal for your speakers. You could also try cutting the factory plug off and crimping your connector on the stock wire, but the stock wiring is usually a little short, so its easier just to strip a little insulation off the stock wire to splice a little more wire on.
No need to mess with running new wires or anything.
Your crossover will have mulitple places to connect wires. The first one is the INPUT. Simply run your speaker wire from the amps outputs to the INPUT on the crossover. Next, there will be TWEETER and WOOFER terminals on the crossover. Run speaker wire from the tweeter outputs to the tweeter, and the woofer outputs to your woofer. Easy as that.
Since you have a 4 channel and are only running a set of components off them then yes I would bridge it. More power, plus you will be using all your amp has to offer. HOWEVER, you will need to be very carfull with the gain since you will be sending roughly DOUBLE the amount of power the speakers are rated for.
If your paraniod and want to for sure be on the safe side, you can wire the components just to the front ouputs on the amp, which would be a waste of the rear channels, but you wont have all that power that might fry your speakers if you go volume happy.
Maybe it would be a good idea to run the components off the front 2 channels of the amp only for awhile untill you get a little more experience and know what to listen for in a stressing speaker and such, THEN you could go ahead and bridge them on the amp for some more powa!
#3
Does this drawing look better. I tried to make it bigger and then I also added more. Just don't know how to get the power from the amp to the crossovers using the one RCA cable.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?num=14409
Last edited by snopro678; Jul 25, 2007 at 12:29 PM.
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From: San Diego / Riverside
According to JL's website your going to want to grab a 30A Fuse for the 250/1 and a 40A fuse for the 300/4. Those go into your distribution center, and I believe your going to want a 70A Fuse for your Power wire.
Remember to install it within 12'' of your battery.
To get power from the amp to crossover you connect the speaker outputs of the amp to the input of the crossovers. Your crossovers should have a +/- for input; An additional +/- for tweeter output and another +/- for woofer output.
Your not going to need an additional RCA because your crossovers are passive not an eletronical crossover
Remember to install it within 12'' of your battery.
Originally Posted by snopro678
Does this drawing look better. I tried to make it bigger and then I also added more. Just don't know how to get the power from the amp to the crossovers using the one RCA cable.
Your not going to need an additional RCA because your crossovers are passive not an eletronical crossover
Last edited by byoon001; Jul 25, 2007 at 12:44 PM.
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From: Nebraska
Either one of those kits should work ok.
If you get the JL kit you will still need to pick up some speaker wire and RCAs
Dont forget to get some 8 gauge if you go the Knu route, along with everything else you have listed with it.
The drawing looks perfect, only a few things....
RCAs send the signal from the HU to the amps. No RCAs between the amps and sub or crossovers. That is where your speaker wire comes in.
In Byoons drawing you can see the yellow RCAs from the HU to the amps, and the red/blue speaker wire from the 250/1 to the sub, and from the 300/4 to the crossovers.
He has his tweeter/woofer connections to the xovers messed up a lil though
If you get the JL kit you will still need to pick up some speaker wire and RCAs
Dont forget to get some 8 gauge if you go the Knu route, along with everything else you have listed with it.
The drawing looks perfect, only a few things....
RCAs send the signal from the HU to the amps. No RCAs between the amps and sub or crossovers. That is where your speaker wire comes in.
In Byoons drawing you can see the yellow RCAs from the HU to the amps, and the red/blue speaker wire from the 250/1 to the sub, and from the 300/4 to the crossovers.
He has his tweeter/woofer connections to the xovers messed up a lil though
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From: Willmar, Minnesota
Originally Posted by byoon001
According to JL's website your going to want to grab a 30A Fuse for the 250/1 and a 40A fuse for the 300/4. Those go into your distribution center, and I believe your going to want a 70A Fuse for your Power wire.
Remember to install it within 12'' of your battery.
To get power from the amp to crossover you connect the speaker outputs of the amp to the input of the crossovers. Your crossovers should have a +/- for input; An additional +/- for tweeter output and another +/- for woofer output.
Your not going to need an additional RCA because your crossovers are passive not an eletronical crossover
Remember to install it within 12'' of your battery.
To get power from the amp to crossover you connect the speaker outputs of the amp to the input of the crossovers. Your crossovers should have a +/- for input; An additional +/- for tweeter output and another +/- for woofer output.
Your not going to need an additional RCA because your crossovers are passive not an eletronical crossover
So are you telling me that all three of those fuses go in the dist. block? Plus I have a 120 amp fuse that is in line by the battery? Here is the block and the install kit that has the fuse holder and fuse:
http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail...rodID=KOL-AK44
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KNF-22D
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From: Willmar, Minnesota
Originally Posted by byoon001
According to JL's website your going to want to grab a 30A Fuse for the 250/1 and a 40A fuse for the 300/4. Those go into your distribution center, and I believe your going to want a 70A Fuse for your Power wire.
Remember to install it within 12'' of your battery.
To get power from the amp to crossover you connect the speaker outputs of the amp to the input of the crossovers. Your crossovers should have a +/- for input; An additional +/- for tweeter output and another +/- for woofer output.
Your not going to need an additional RCA because your crossovers are passive not an eletronical crossover
Remember to install it within 12'' of your battery.
To get power from the amp to crossover you connect the speaker outputs of the amp to the input of the crossovers. Your crossovers should have a +/- for input; An additional +/- for tweeter output and another +/- for woofer output.
Your not going to need an additional RCA because your crossovers are passive not an eletronical crossover
By the way how is it that you guys get images to show up on here without having to post a link to my gallery?
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From: Nebraska
Originally Posted by snopro678
So are you telling me that all three of those fuses go in the dist. block? Plus I have a 120 amp fuse that is in line by the battery? Here is the block and the install kit that has the fuse holder and fuse:
http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail...rodID=KOL-AK44
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KNF-22D
http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail...rodID=KOL-AK44
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KNF-22D
Since you are getting a fused distribution block you will need two fuses for the d-block; one for the 300/4 and one for the 250/1.
The third fuse Byoon is talking about is the one that is on the main power wire up by the battery. Your kit comes with a 120 amp fuse, but that is a little on the large side. Byoon suggest a 70 amp fuse to replace the 120 amp one that comes with your kit. 70amp fuses are a little hard to find sometimes though (a lot of popular companies dont even make that size, some do though) so you might have to end up sticking an 80 or 60 amp fuse in there (preferably a 60 amp one). Thats assuming you cant get ahold of a 70 amp one.
As for the pics...when you have a picture uploaded in your gallery, click on the thumbnail to make it large. Next, right click on the pic, a little menu will pop up, click on properties way at the bottom. Now a little window will show up that has a URL address, highlight the address and copy it.
When you are typing a post then, click the "insert image" button (yellow square with mountians in it) and paste the URL you copied in the "explorer user prompt" window.
Quote my message and you will be able to see the IMG tags and the URL between them...^^^^
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From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by snopro678
So are you telling me that all three of those fuses go in the dist. block? Plus I have a 120 amp fuse that is in line by the battery? Here is the block and the install kit that has the fuse holder and fuse:
http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail...rodID=KOL-AK44
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KNF-22D
http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail...rodID=KOL-AK44
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KNF-22D
One fuse type will be AGU which needs to be in a AGU fuse holder like I linked to up a few post. That will need to be 70A-100A. This fuse is there to protect your vehicle against shorting that massive wire and starting a fire. It will go as close as humanly possible to the battery post.
The two other fuses will be a 30A and a 40A ANL or both 40A and will go into your distro block you linked to. You'll still need a good 20 foot of light gauge remote wire you can get locally. You'll also need wire strippers/crimpers and barrel terminals to connect the remote wires to the headunit.
Speaking of barrel terminals... do you have a wiring harness to hook up your headunit to the factory wiring?
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From: Willmar, Minnesota
Originally Posted by Impact9
One fuse type will be AGU which needs to be in a AGU fuse holder like I linked to up a few post. That will need to be 70A-100A. This fuse is there to protect your vehicle against shorting that massive wire and starting a fire. It will go as close as humanly possible to the battery post.
The two other fuses will be a 30A and a 40A ANL or both 40A and will go into your distro block you linked to. You'll still need a good 20 foot of light gauge remote wire you can get locally. You'll also need wire strippers/crimpers and barrel terminals to connect the remote wires to the headunit.
Speaking of barrel terminals... do you have a wiring harness to hook up your headunit to the factory wiring?
The two other fuses will be a 30A and a 40A ANL or both 40A and will go into your distro block you linked to. You'll still need a good 20 foot of light gauge remote wire you can get locally. You'll also need wire strippers/crimpers and barrel terminals to connect the remote wires to the headunit.
Speaking of barrel terminals... do you have a wiring harness to hook up your headunit to the factory wiring?
Yes I have the harness. Well I mean I just ordered it today.
Thank you guys again for all your help.
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From: Willmar, Minnesota
Originally Posted by Impact9
One fuse type will be AGU which needs to be in a AGU fuse holder like I linked to up a few post. That will need to be 70A-100A. This fuse is there to protect your vehicle against shorting that massive wire and starting a fire. It will go as close as humanly possible to the battery post.
The two other fuses will be a 30A and a 40A ANL or both 40A and will go into your distro block you linked to. You'll still need a good 20 foot of light gauge remote wire you can get locally. You'll also need wire strippers/crimpers and barrel terminals to connect the remote wires to the headunit.
Speaking of barrel terminals... do you have a wiring harness to hook up your headunit to the factory wiring?
The two other fuses will be a 30A and a 40A ANL or both 40A and will go into your distro block you linked to. You'll still need a good 20 foot of light gauge remote wire you can get locally. You'll also need wire strippers/crimpers and barrel terminals to connect the remote wires to the headunit.
Speaking of barrel terminals... do you have a wiring harness to hook up your headunit to the factory wiring?
Hey Impact. That kit comes with a fuse holder, but it is not the AGU style. Are you telling me I should buy one that is that style to use instead?