I have a Kicker ZX 850.2 (2 channel), And two 10" infinatys... I have them both wired at 4 ohms ( Positive too positive and negitive too negitive) I had both of them on there own channels, and it sounded good. But then i was told if i bridged them they would hit harder... So i bridged them, and it hits a lot harder. But if i turn it up as loud as i use too, the red light flashes and it shuts off... But if i leave the volume around 10 or 12 it will play as long as i want it too, but as soon as i get too 14 or higher it shuts off, and i use too play at 20 all day long.... thanks for any help....

 

What voice coils do you have? Are they single or dual voice coils? 2 or 4 ohm voice coils. It may be that you are sending too low of a load to your amp.

Unless they are 8 ohm voice coils you are not getting a 4 ohm load going + to + and - to -. And even if they are and you wired them together you are down to 2 ohms which that amp will may not like 2 ohms bridged.

 

to add on to d's post, your amp is going into protect mode which is normal when you over drive the amp. The amp is not 2 ohm stable when bridged but you can run get 425x2 @ 2 ohms. Which would still work for you IF you have 4 ohm speakers

http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm

 

n00btastic, D00d u shuld bridge it, you will learn very quick that a watt is a watt and bridging really isnt needed unless you cannot run your voice coil confic otherwise

 

They are dual voice coils, and they are 4 ohm voice coils... so is it just wired wrong... and if so how should i wire it

 

You can wire it bridged with two dual 4 ohm voice coils and arrive at a 4 ohm final load. The way you probably have it wired, + to + and - to -, you are actually putting a 1 ohm load on the amp bridged. No way that amp will be able to handle that very long. You need to use a series/parallel wiring scheme. Wire each sub in series and then wire the sub together in parallel or to make it easier, do like impact suggested and just run one sub per channel, + to + and - to - and each sub will be running in 2 ohm stereo mode and receive the 425 watts. Same thing as running them bridged. But bridged the correct way not the way you are running them.

Hope that helps.

 

Yea the only time you need to bridge really for more power as in my situation.

Bridged I get 1100x1 @ 4ohms
Not bridged I get 200x2 @ 4 ohms

So bridging clearly pays off for me but there is no pay off for your amp.

Here's how you'll need to wire your speakers to give your amp a 2 ohm load per channel:



if you just gotta run it bridged then do this:

 

Alright, I was running them one sub too a channel for a wile and it sounded good... But it sounds a lot better bridged... So if i rewire it like you said i should if i bridge it. Will it sound like it use too when i had one per channel? Thanks for all the help

 

Bridged was giving them double power, but your amp is going to burn up if you continue to do that. You need to buy a more powerful amp to get the sound you want.

Anyways try one of the configurations above, technically they should sound exactly the same. Now since I don't know how you wired it before I can't say they will sound like you had them to begin with. But either way above will save your amps life.

 

Alright, Well i had it wired just like the first picture.. Then all i did is twist my 2 positives togeather, and the same with the negitive, then put the negitive in the negitive on one channel and the positive in the positive on the other channel, that making it bridged right?
so if i bridge it like the second picture will it sound as good as it did with the way i bridged it the first time?? And will it be safe for my amp???
Thanks....

 

You are lucky you did not burn up your amp with wiring like the first picture. I would not advise it. The 2nd pic is what you want. You really should not be able to tell a difference in how is sounds. In theory, when you wired it like pic one, the amp was sending more power to the subs than pic two will but, the amp was not stable doing it. Pic two should allow your amp to run its best. But pics two is the same thing as running one sub per channel. It should sound the same. If it does not, then there are other problems.

 

Look at the first picture again. That gives 2 ohms per channel on a non-bridged setup which is for his amp. Rolling is saying that he did the speaker parts the same but also twisted the wires from sub #2 with #1. That bridged the amp giving it 2 ohms in a bridged mode.

Rolling- any of those 2 configs will work.
Pic #1 is 2 ohm per channel not bridged. So each speaker will get it's own channel.
Pic #2 is 4 ohm bridged so each speaker will share the power.

For simplicity's sake go with Pic #2

Just to save some time here are your amps specs:
» 295 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
» 425 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
» 850 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode
» stereo or bridged mono output
» 4-ohm stable in bridged mode
» Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required)
» 3-way protection circuitry
» speaker- and preamp-level inputs
» bass boost (0-18 dB) centered at 40 Hz
» variable high-/low-pass crossover (50-200 Hz, 12 dB per octave)
» preamp outputs
» fuse rating: 40A x 3
» frequency response 20-20,000 Hz
» S/N Ratio: >95 dB
» THD: .085
» 13.8 Volts
» FUSE RATING: 40A x 3
» 23.25" x 9 5/8" X 2 1/8"

 

Actually, if he wired all positives and all negatives together and then wired those acrossed the bridged channels, he was presenting a 1ohm bridged load to the amp. Dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel made each sub 2 ohm. Wire the 2 subs together in parallel and now you are at 1 ohm. That amp might have worked in 2 ohm bridged for a while but, 1 ohm bridged is not going to happen very long.

Whether he uses pic 2 or wires each sub in parallel to its own channel will yield the same result. 425 watts per sub.

 

Oops yea 1 ohm :o

surprised the amp didn't go

 

alright so i should just stick with pic 1, and have one sub too a channel?? ... thanks