Im planning on getting a single RF 10" Punch Z sub. Will the US Acoustics USB-2150 be good? Crutchfield has it for $149 and it's dual channel so if I decide to upgrade later it can take that, hopefully.

Is it powerful enough? Crutchfield puts the sub at 50-150w RMS, and the amp 150x2@12.9v RMS at 4 ohms.

Thanks.

 

Plenty

 

thanks.

what is the minimum RMS wattage I should look at?

Im kinda new to the world of amps, so Im not exactly sure of how the power ratings work out.

would putting it in bridged mode be too much for the sub? in bridged mode it has 450x1 w RMS...

thanks again.

also, why is this amp so much cheaper than the other 150wx2 amps?

 

John,

Wattage ratings for the longest time have been the most abused rating in car audio. Many companies severely under rate their equipment while others do just the opposite and over rate them. The amp you are referring to probably does a more legitimate 150x2 peak and not RMS. This being the case is precisely why some companis charge so much more for an amp with seemingly less power than it's competition. I am sure you can see what I mean, and yes the saying still rings true "You get what you pay for".

Anyway, that amp will do fine on the sub you selected and will also give you room for future upgrade in case you decide you want an additional 10" sub or just a better 10" sub. Besides, you can turn the gains down on the amp to decrease it's output where the sub can handle it fine.

 

Yeah I was beginning to think there was some play with the power ratings going on...

Now I just need to figure out if I should upgrade to the sub/amp first, or upgrade the speakers first...

 

Well seeing as how the bass response from the stock speaker locations and sizes is absolutely dreadful. You would see the largest increase in system performance from upgrading to the sub and amp first. Also think about what music you listen to and how you want to hear your music before you make the decision. IMO, since you are going to upgrade the system as a whole it really does not make that big of a difference which route you take since what you are striving for is end result once it is completed.

 

Right now I think I am going to start with the head unit (Kenwood KDC-3022 from crutchfield), and then try to get the new sub/amp around christmas along with some speakers. I found a deal online for the Infinity Kappa 575.2cf's for $75 or so per pair.

Thats the plan for now. I found a guy around here who will make me some brackets to raise the seat 3" for about $100, which will give me extra space to build my box with.

I dont suppose the stock 6-CD changer will work with aftermarket head units will it?

Thanks.

 

Well you could check with a company called Soundgate to see if they have an adapter to incorporate the factory changer into an aftermarket HU. I know they have the adapters to add aftermarket changers into the factory HU and they very well could be backward compatable but that would be a question for them. You can find more info at www.soundgate.com

Sound like your plan for your system is well conceived and it should sound great once you get it completed. Good luck.

 

Thanks for all your help cgorris.

I went to that site, and in their FAQ found this:

1. The factory radio in my car has a problem and I want to put in a new aftermarket receiver or CD player. Can I connect my existing factory CD changer to an aftermarket receiver or CD player?
No, unfortunately this cannot be done. CD changers and radios communicate with one another using a digital language - the same method used between a computer and printer, for instance. Digital languages are different from one another, and the languages cannot be mixed without using some type of translator.

A second factor making this impossible to do, and confusing at the same time, is as follows. Some aftermarket manufacturers - Pioneer or Alpine for instance - provide equipment to the car manufacturers. Even though a factory changer may have a small sticker stating Pioneer manufactures it, the car manufacturer has had Pioneer put different digital language in the changer. This makes the changer made for the aftermarket by Pioneer different from the changer made for the car manufacturer.


Ah well. Wont be too big of a deal anyway, since changing CDs is kind of a PITA, having to reach behind the seat and all. Plus, the Kenwood will play CDRWs, which is something I have been wanting for quite a while...CDRs work fine, but after a while you get alot of them.

Thanks again.

 

Well at least you were able to get your answer from their website!

I didn't think that you would be able to get the two to talk. I just felt it would be best for you to get a definitive answer from a company that devotes all their energies to those type questions since things change so rapidly from year to year in the stock setups.

BTW,

Keep us updated on your progress and check back if you nede any other help.

 

I will

 

Well, took about 30 minutes and 2 hardware stores (HomeDepot didnt have anything smaller than 20mm long), and then 2.5 hours to actually get the wiring done, dig out the speaker connecter (took me a few minutes to find that sucker).





Only thing that went "wrong"...I put the thing in all wired up, but now I cant get the damn thing back out to try and clean up the wiring.

Apparently the two clamps on the bottom really dont want to come out. Looks like the AC controls would have to come out, and to get those out that main dash piece has to come out. What a pickle...

But it sure sounds nice Sounds cleaner, crisper, sounds better at loud volumes (IMO). Pretty good just for upgrading the head unit.

 

Looks great!

Your well on your way now.

 

I just wish the "equalizer" actually did something. As it is, there are two "preset" visualzations you can have...