Amp wiring questions

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  #16  
Old 03-26-2003 | 06:14 PM
BigC's Avatar
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From: Kansas City
I received my amp yesterday and now I'm trying to get a strategy together to install it. I'd like to put it under the passenger seat. I'm trying to figure out where to run the +12 through the firewall. I'd like to tap into the the power distribution post on the passenger side next to the battery. I read the post where sombody punched through their heater core and that doesn't sound very fascinating. Thanks,

Brent
 
  #17  
Old 03-26-2003 | 09:16 PM
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APT
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From: Commerce Twp, MI
Brent, there should be a hole already in the firewall with a grommet for you to use. Look in the drivers footwell, right above the steering column. Poke something through there, then look from the engine side.
 
  #18  
Old 03-26-2003 | 10:03 PM
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From: Kansas City
Aaron,

I found the grommet your talking about. I'll probably drill a hole big enough to get the wire through it as that grommet looks to be an inch or bigger in diameter. Did you then run the wire through that conduit that's mounted at the top of the firewall on the engine side to get it over to the battery fuse panel? It looks like the cover for it just clips in place.

The amp looks to be in great shape. I can't even tell is was used. It's been so long since I have messed around with car stereo that I'm having trouble believing the power requirements for this equipment. 8 guage wire?! Damb.


Thanks for your help!

Brent
 
  #19  
Old 03-27-2003 | 07:27 AM
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That's where I ran mine. Just got it under that "conduit" to keep it protected.
 
  #20  
Old 03-27-2003 | 12:03 PM
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APT
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From: Commerce Twp, MI
Drill a hole? You mean through the grommet? A screwdriver should work fine. I have 8GA wire for mine. I don't remember any conduit, but I did run the wire against the firewall with zip ties. If you do not already have the 8GA wire, I recommend the installation kit from KnuKonceptz. I know the owner a little and use his stuff. Very good quality at great prices.

I forgot you ordered one of those Bazooka amps. Let me know how it works once you get it wired up.
 
  #21  
Old 03-27-2003 | 01:39 PM
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From: Kansas City
OK, I got the power lead through the firewall and through the conduit at the top of the firewall. The manual that came with this amp says I need and inline fuse mounted within 12" of the battery but it doesn't say what amperage to get. The unit has two fuses plugged into the back of it, one being a 20 amp fuse and then an aux. at 7.5amp. I'm not sure what the aux. is for but would it be safe to assume that I need a 20amp inline fuse if the one plugged into the amplifier is a 20amp fuse? The amp itself is a 70w x2 Bazooka EL260 if that helps.

Thanks,

Brent
 
  #22  
Old 03-27-2003 | 06:40 PM
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I got a bit impatient and went ahead and wired it without the inline fuse to see if everything else was functional. I probably did something wrong but I'm not getting a power on from either the I pin or the O pin. I know the amp works because I just jumped accross the from the +12 lead to the remote on lead and it came right up. I guess I need to go get a 12v test probe. The A-P harness is the one I have too.

Brent
 
  #23  
Old 03-30-2003 | 12:53 PM
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I figured out my problem and have the amp coming on with the key now. I still would like some input on the inline fuse issue. The Bazooka amp doesn't pop either when it comes on. I hear a little whne it powers down though. Thanks for your help.

Brent
 
  #24  
Old 03-30-2003 | 05:19 PM
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From: Eastern TN
Cool

Brent -

The inline fuse is to protect the wiring in the case of a short. If your amp has a 20 amp fuse in it, you could safely use a 30 amp inline on the power cable. Be sure to keep it as close as possible to the battery.

 
  #25  
Old 04-27-2003 | 06:53 PM
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From: Kansas City
Well I finally got everything put together and working. The sub was a B'day present so I couldn't put it together earlier lest the wife be pissed at me. I tried the sub wired in stereo and it just didn't have enough punch to even know it was there. I ended up bridging it BUT the amp is not 2 ohm stable. The sub I have is rated at 8 ohm stereo and it says it goes down to 2ohms bridged in the owners manual?? That don't compute. I thought wiring two 8ohm loads in parallel yielded a 4ohm load? I ran it for about 15 minutes and the amp didn't even get warm to the touch. So I'm not going to worry about it until somebody here says I'm doing a no no.

Overall I'm pleased with addition of the sub and amp. Obviously it isn't an expensive setup but it sounds so much better than stock it's not even funny. Thanks APT and B-Man for your input in this project.



Brent
 
  #26  
Old 04-28-2003 | 10:13 AM
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Here's where I ran my power wire.......down the hole.....

out from behind the wheel well liner........

and up through the grommet
 



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