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2015 Lift & Wheel Upgrade Questions

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  #16  
Old 05-15-2015, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyingSquirrel
Why do you say that? 2-3" seems to be the average, if not the minimum. 6" kits are also pretty common around here. What front-end components?
2" is a good number to be at with a leveling kit, 2.5" is considered the acceptable max for a leveling kit. 3" and above leveling kits make the front end geometry way too extreme.

This puts a lot of stress on the front end components (upper/lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and cv axles as well if you have 4x4). The stress causes these parts to wear out a lot faster. Another thing to keep in mind is the geometry is so out of whack getting a proper alignment can be next too impossible.

That's why very few people on this site run leveling kits above 2.5". Some can get away with it and have no problems, but most don't.

The reason you can do a suspension lift bigger is that its an entire lift kit, not just a leveling kit. Suspension lift kits come with components like drop-down cross members that lower the control arms, front diff, etc. to allow the geometry to stay pretty much the same way it was stock. It's also why they cost a lot more since a lot more r&d goes into building those kits.

It's your truck to do as you please but I figured I'd give warning.
 
  #17  
Old 05-15-2015, 10:40 PM
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You're new to trucks. So don't be so quick to alter the truck with wheels and over-sized tires that are going to hurt performance, braking, fuel economy, and handling. The leveling kit may also wear out the ball joints and tie rods prematurely. So just relax. Reorder your truck. After it comes in wait awhile and think long and hard on what you want to do and if any of this is even necessary or desired.
 
  #18  
Old 05-15-2015, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by pizzaman711
2" is a good number to be at with a leveling kit, 2.5" is considered the acceptable max for a leveling kit. 3" and above leveling kits make the front end geometry way too extreme.

This puts a lot of stress on the front end components (upper/lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and cv axles as well if you have 4x4). The stress causes these parts to wear out a lot faster. Another thing to keep in mind is the geometry is so out of whack getting a proper alignment can be next too impossible.

That's why very few people on this site run leveling kits above 2.5". Some can get away with it and have no problems, but most don't.

The reason you can do a suspension lift bigger is that its an entire lift kit, not just a leveling kit. Suspension lift kits come with components like drop-down cross members that lower the control arms, front diff, etc. to allow the geometry to stay pretty much the same way it was stock. It's also why they cost a lot more since a lot more r&d goes into building those kits.

It's your truck to do as you please but I figured I'd give warning.
HUGE thank you for that information. That's the first I've heard anyone talk about that aspect. Probably just saved me a bunch
 
  #19  
Old 05-15-2015, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyingSquirrel
Can anyone comment on PizzaMan's feedback? I'm very interested to hear if there's something I've overlooked here.
Any lift less than 4" is basically a leveling kit, whether it's a spacer that bolts on top of the coil over or longer coilovers. They all do the same thing, cause your ball joints, tie rod ends and your CV joints in your front axles to be flexed beyond the design limits and eventually will wear prematurely. Whereas a full suspension lift (4" and up) lowers the front diff and has longer steering knuckles to keep the CV angles and ball joint angles within the original design limits.

Level kits are cheap depending on which type you use, roughly 100 to 500 bucks. Full on lift kits start about 1500 and go up from there.
 
  #20  
Old 05-15-2015, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bluegreensf150
You're new to trucks. So don't be so quick to alter the truck with wheels and over-sized tires that are going to hurt performance, braking, fuel economy, and handling. The leveling kit may also wear out the ball joints and tie rods prematurely. So just relax. Reorder your truck. After it comes in wait awhile and think long and hard on what you want to do and if any of this is even necessary or desired.
Agreed, but one of the key things about this truck purchase was to get a certain look right the first time. I'm not totally thrilled about the balance of the 18" wheels and 32" tires on the 6'6" bed SCrew. Trying to figure out how far I have to push it to get a good "truck look" without, as you pointed out, screwing up the dynamics. I also am going to be offroading this with my father in law pretty soon (he has grown up with trucks). I want the right equipment on there
 
  #21  
Old 05-15-2015, 11:07 PM
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I wish I could tell how high these were lifted. My guess is these are all 6" kits?

This looks good:


As does this:


And this:




 

Last edited by FlyingSquirrel; 05-15-2015 at 11:16 PM.
  #22  
Old 05-15-2015, 11:09 PM
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Since you are getting the 18's, your stock tires will be 275-65-18, basically a 32" tire. Keep the stock wheels and replace the tires with a 275-70-18, a 33" tire they are the same width as the stockers and a little taller. You can run that size with out a level kit and keep the suspension in it's optimal operating range. A win-win, you get the better look of a bigger tire and you won't over stress the front end on a brand new truck.
 
  #23  
Old 05-15-2015, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyingSquirrel
I wish I could tell how high these were lifted. My guess is these are all 6" kits?

This looks good:

Definitely a full lift (you can see the adjusters on the lower control arms)
As does this:

Full lift
And this:

Full lift

Level kit
level kit
 
  #24  
Old 05-16-2015, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyingSquirrel
Agreed, but one of the key things about this truck purchase was to get a certain look right the first time. I'm not totally thrilled about the balance of the 18" wheels and 32" tires on the 6'6" bed SCrew. Trying to figure out how far I have to push it to get a good "truck look" without, as you pointed out, screwing up the dynamics. I also am going to be offroading this with my father in law pretty soon (he has grown up with trucks). I want the right equipment on there
So just slow down. You don't even have the truck and the truck order may have been cancelled. You are getting way ahead of yourself and are already filing complaints at the dealership before you even have the truck. What will happen if you mod the truck and screw it up? The complaints will be flying and you will be kicking yourself and be on the dealer's case about why your truck's ride is terrible or why you're getting such poor mpg's. You will not be happy if you mod the truck and something goes wrong because of your mods or your fuel economy drops 4-5 mpgs. Not that there is anything wrong with mods. But you really need to slow down and wait and see how you like the truck first. Also if you change the tire size don't expect the dealer to help you with the leveling kit install or the speedometer change. You'll be on your own for that. Find out about the order and make sure its right and exactly the way you want it.
 



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