My 2010 5.4 Lariat that I bought recently with 192k miles, the steering seems tighter than it should. Truck overall is great with no known issues. However, even though it works and sounds fine, I don't believe the trans fluid has ever been changed as there is no carfax record of it and it's very black. I sent off an oil sample to Blackstone that is expected tomorrow so I can have a better idea how the internals are. So as soon as my filter/fluid gets here I'll be taking care of that anyway. On that note, I checked the PS fluid and it's dark black and may not have ever been changed either, and I'll be taking care of that shortly also. I'm hoping that the stiff steering is being caused by the crappy fluid, but I'll know once I completely flush the system. The pump makes no unusual noise, not even a whine so I believe it's still serviceable.
I guess my main question is the steering. What are the typical causes of tight steering? I mean, if I make a steering correction the steering does not return to center as I would expect. If make a slight turn to the left (or right, doesn't matter) it continues to go in that direction until I manually return it. Any thoughts out there?
Thanks,
Darrel

 

lub' the steering shaft U-joints in the engine bay.

Also... How are the tie rods and all the other front-end suspension components in general?
.

 

The caster in the front suspension is what makes the wheels return to straight after turning. Your truck may need an alignment.

 

Well, after checking the usual stuff like, tie rods, ball joints, etc, all was tight and I was still focused on the power steering fluid that I suspected had never been changed. So, today I flushed the system to get all the old crappy stuff out of there while pumping in the new Mercon V as Ford calls for. Pretty straight forward job for a backyard DIY and now all the fluid is the right color, followed up by a 20 mile trip to visit my daughter. The steering is no longer tight and feels like a normal power steering should feel now. All is well on that regard and now, as soon as my Mercon LV arrives, I'll be changing out the trans fluid in including filter and bulkhead sleeve. Fortunately I have access to a pit so the job should be pretty straight forward and hopefully in about 3 hours or so should be done. The trans shows no symptoms at all, pretty normal, but that black fluid has to go, especially when in it appears that it has never been changed since new, 192k!
Y'all have great day out there, y'hea!

 

You know you are only changing about 1/3 of the trans fluid with a pan drop? It's best done with a flush machine.

 

Thanks for the input, but I believe with the 6R80 six speed it's more like a little over half in the pan with 13.5 qts total, so changing pan contents is better than nothing. I stopped at the Ford dealer and service manager told me that the 6R80 has a thermally activated solenoid that won't allow the fluid to pass through until the temp reaches about 190f. Not sure if he's correct on that, but that is all I have for now. If the flush machine would take care of all of it then it would be a no-brainer to me.
Onward ....
D

 

That's how the Ford dealer services them - a flush machine.

Automatic Transmission, 6R80 Initial Fill..........3.5 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
6 speed 6R80..........13 quarts

 

Thanks for the input. I appreciate the help.
After checking everything that was suggested with NTF, I decided to go ahead and completely flush the power steering fluid. It wasn't and easy ten minute job like some Youtubers indicated, but in the end without making too big of a mess, the old black fluid is out and the new red fluid is in. After a ten mile test ride through town and open road I found a significant difference (placebo effect?) and I'm happy with the result. I suspect that fluid probably had 192k miles on it so it needed changing anyway.
Thanks for the help.
D

 

A friend has a pit in his garage so I saw no reason why I shouldn't tackle this myself. So, after pulling the pan, replacing the oil (4 qts LV), new filter, and new leaky bulkhead sleeve, I drove to the nearest dealer about 35 miles and asked if they could do a flush for me while I waited. Real nice guy on the computer said "Give me a minute or two" and came back shortly and asked which truck was mine, went right out to write down the VIN and other particulars then said "bring it in". About 40 minutes later I was PIF with nice clean (red) oil on my way with everything working perfectly. I wasn't expecting such quick, courteous, and efficient service and I won't forget it. I usually like to do whatever maintenance I can, but this was just too good of a deal with IMO and something that really needed to be done with 192k on it.
Since then I drained and refilled the transfer case. Easy job, no mess.
Next is the rear differential.
Thanks for the help.

TIP: Go to Home Depot or other big box home improvement and head for the section where all the concrete supplies are. They have a mortar mixing pan that is about 7x24x36 that worked perfectly for draining the oil pan contents. No mess!
D

 

It's taken me awhile to get back to this for some closure as my truck was held up while awaiting it's turn to have the plow installed.
After much thought and after realizing that changing the steering pump fluid only helped a tiny bit, I got to thinking more about the steering shaft U-joints, so I went ahead and ordered a new one from Rock Auto (OEM) and spent $100 at the Ford dealer for install and now it's a new truck! The original shaft joints were very bound up and had to put it in a vice to get them to move much at all -- SALT! Much much better now. Thanks for everyone's help.
Darrel