Guys,
I bought a travel trailer (bumper pull) this weekend. Now I need to beef up the suspension and other parts to make it optimum for short camping trips (1-3 hour drive times) and I'm looking for some suggestions. I've read no less than 40 posts about this but specific answers to me is always preferred over someone else's setup/circumstances. But I dont want to .

For all intensive purposes, the F-150 Eco SuperCrew WILL tow it. The numbers are all alright except for the slight overage on the hitch weight (which was based on a Class 4 hitch). The manual says I have a 9800# tow capacity with the Eco 3.5L SuperCrew with 3.55 gears.

My truck is kinda confusing to me since I'm not sure what the previous owner was doing with it since it has a Class 5 hitch on the rear already, integrated trailer brake controller, but still has the OEM P rated tires. I'm not sure about the shocks, but they look stock to me. I have a weight distribution hitch with Anti-Sway friction bars to tow it with also.

I towed it back from Iowa (I Live in Oklahoma) which is a 10 hour trip and the power of the truck was no problem, but I was getting 6.5 MPG the entire way. I usually only get 15.5 normally anyway. (Which is a grip since my 2001 F-150 4.6L Extended Cab got 14.5 MPG and it was 12 years old )

So here is some information about the trailer and truck and am looking for some advise on the whole setup.

Here is the specs on the travel trailer:
Palomino Puma: MODEL 30-FBSS

Dry Hitch Weight 1,155 lbs. (524 kg)
Unloaded Vehicle Weight 8,130 lbs. (3,688 kg)
GVWR 10,663 lbs. (4,837 kg)
Cargo Carrying Capacity 2,500 lbs. (1,134 kg)
Exterior Length 34' 8" (10.6 m)
Exterior Height 11' 1" (3.4 m)
Exterior Width 96" (2.4 m)
Fresh Water Capacity 51 gal. (193 L)
Gray Water Capacity 42 gal. (159 L)
Black Water Capacity 42 gal. (159 L)

My F-150 is a 2012 Lariat SuperCrew Ecoboost. The sticker shows that is the 508A Package with 3.55 Electronic Lock Axle, 7100# GVWR Package, Trailer Tow Package.

Here is my Door Jamb Sticker and Hitch Sticker: Question: Why is there a "-S/H" in metallic marker written on the door jamb?




Here is my truck with the trailer attached. It's squatting a little bit and I want to fix that with either shocks, leafs, or air bags.



I know the weight of the trailer is alot, and I know I'm a little over my tongue weight. What do you guys recommend?
I know I'll get the "buy an F-250" response, and that may be an option, but if the F-150 (which is my daily driver) can do this with some upgrades then I think that is my preferred route.

I'll probably be towing this once a month in the 6 months of nice weather we have here in Oklahoma.

Thanks for the input!
Chris

 

...

 

Squatting isn't necessarily a bad thing, but too much squat is. Your best option is probably airbags. Otherwise I'd say just make sure the WDH is setup properly, the WDH should eliminate most of the squat. IMO your trailer is sitting pretty level and that's what you want. Raising your truck will raise the trailer and could create stability problems.

 

Let's see - you are over the max tongue weight for the hitch, most likely over truck GVWR, and you get 6.5 mpg when towing? That was not a very smart purchase.

That's not a class 5 hitch, by the way, it's a stock class 3.

No amount of upgrades are going to make it a "legal" tow, but at the very least you need air bags and LT-rated tires.

 

Thanks Prime!

The WDH has an adjustable tongue. If I put air bags on it to make the truck *** end raise up, I could still adjust that tongue so the trailer was level as it is now.

That being said, I guess air bags are a good option so the rear end of the truck is not pitched so high when not towing. Would that be a correct statement?

Thanks again!
Chris

 

Wow.... I know you said you didn't want to hear the "get an F250", but wow....

First off, you can add all the air bags and suspension helping gizmos you want.. Won't erase the fact that you have a very low GVWR and Payload rating for that truck...

Sure, you might have a #9800 "tow rating", but that also means you can't exceed ANY of your other GVWR's the truck has.

I wouldn't want to really tow that trailer with my F150... And it's got much better GVWR than yours...





I don't have a pic of my hitch ratings, but mine has #1150 TW and #11,500 trailer rating..

That's because I have the MAX TOW package. You would be eeking by with the HD Payload package (7 lug wheels) with that beast..

Anyway, you are probably over your rear axle ratings and bumping on the P rated tire ratings... If you do this, you will be over, so get some LT rated tires before you hitch it up again and best of luck to ya!

Not trying to be a drag on your new purchase, but you are really expecting way too much out of your F150 with that rig... JMHO on the deal and knowing what it's like to be overloaded when towing a trailer of any sorts...

Mitch

 

Mitch, thanks for the input. I hear what your saying man. I know that I'm asking alot (and a little more) from the F-150 to tow. I REALLY wasn't looking for a RV Trailer of that size/weight, but couldn't pass it up for the price/features.

Definitely will get those LT tires! Have any suggestions? I think i'll stay with the OEM size due to fuel economy and odometer/speedometer accuracy.

Chris

 

Just stay away from any 'mud' type of tire (A/T would be okay)... Stick with the same size no matter what and if you end up with load range "E" tires (which you probably will because they really don't make them in lower LR for 18" + size wheels) you won't have to go the full 80 PSI on the tires, but you should run them at least around 60-65 PSI or so..

Keep everything as lightly packed as possible and don't be in any hurry to get where you are going!

Mitch

 

I'd want airbags just for stability's sake, but they'd also help the squat. Isn't that trailer gonna close to or in excess of 10k lbs once full? That's really pushing it, but you aren't dragging it across the country.

 

Hey KMAC,
Thanks for the response. I don't want to go more than 1K more stuff in the trailer. I figure just clothes, some food items, and some fold chairs is all that will go in it while towing. I agree that even empty at 8k+ lbs, its pushing it.

The airbags sound like the way to go.

 

Your 8130 dry... probably 8300 with propane, I'd venture to guess packing lightly like we do you'd be around 9000lbs loaded. Just make sure you are camping dry, and dumping before you pull out and you should be fine. Airbags would help with the truck squat but like I said before, that squat isn't necessarily a bad thing unless your riding on the bump stops.

 

This is my truck trailer combo, only things I have on it are load range E Michelin LTX AT/2 tires and I ordered the HD payload rear leaf springs from Ford dealer and installed them. She sits pretty level for having 1840lbs on the hitch.

Looking at your stickers, your GVWR is 7100lbs, but your axles ratings total 7450lbs. Your truck would need to weigh between 5500-5600 before hitching up to be legal with your GVWR. That being said, you are likely over your ratings but only slightly and I wouldn't bat an eye lash with it... ratings are there for a legal point of view, changing your tires and airbags will beef things up and make the vehicle safer.

I am in no way saying anyone should disregard ratings, but instead just use common sense and make sure you know the limitations of your trucks. Read the fine print of the technical specifications.

 

Thanks Prime! Can you tell me how much the HD Payload Springs were and the part number if you happen to have them?

Did you install them yourself? I've never put on leafs/springs before.


Chris

 

Thanks GLC,

Yeah, the RV wasn't in my purchase equation when I bought the F-150 ECO.

I'll definitely get some LT tires. Would air bags or spring/leafs be better?

Chris

 

I installed the Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) to prevent sag when towing my friend's 27' boat. After installation, I had four guys stand in the back of the bed, and the truck only sank about 1/2"...before installation this resulted in a 2" drop/sag.

I haven't towed since installing the RAS, so don't have any 'experience' or real world advice for you. It was these forums (this one and others) that lead me to buy the RAS vs airbags or stiffer leaf springs.

I can say that the RAS does provide additional stability, an overall better ride when unloaded - the back of the truck doesn't tend to walk around over rough roads or railroad tracks.

The only thing I didn't like about the RAS is the (unloaded) height of the rear went up by 3/4". I have the FX2, so it was already raked aggressively...now I waiting for Bilstein leveling shocks to bring the front up a little so the difference in height front to rear isn't as much. (right now, ground to fender: 36" front, 39.5" rear)